Not getting fuel to cylinders

I rebuilt my late model 8n (side mount). Started immediately at first start but ran rough. Drained gas, thinking it may have had water in it, 3 gallons of fresh gas, and it hasn't started since.
Plenty of gas flow to carb, rebuilt carb, new plugs, wires, coil, points, condenser, capacitor, button, distributor cap. Getting fire. Plenty of vacuum at intake. With carb off, will suck strong. Plugs are dry, no sign of fuel at all on plugs. Help!
 
6 volt or 12 volt?

Look at the sediment bowl. Any water in the bottom?

The plugs aren't supposed to be wet. If they are, then you flooded it.

Have you tried starting fluid directly into the carb throat?

Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb. Turn the gas on. Will it fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

Get out your adjustable gap plug checker.* Will the spark jump 1/4" in open air?

* If you do not have one, buy one. Meanwhile, open the gap on an old plug to 1/4" and ground it to the block.
75 Tips
 
Sediment bowl =no water, starting fluid =yes, pint jar =yes, 1/4"gap = yes. I swapped carb from my other 8n, no difference, but the other one ran with that carb.
 
Yes I changed those parts afterwards. No, it does not start with starting fluid. I even tried wd 40 in the cylinder, to no avail.
 
Plug wires are on correct. 1243 ccw. Tried pulling, but guess grass was too wet, 1 wheel went forward and the other backwards?
 
Hammert357,You are not going to be able to pull start it in 1st or 2nd gear,the wheels will just slide as you said.Use 3rd or 4th gear to pull start it.Check your spark again 1/4" gap at all 4 plug wires,Re check and clean and polish point gap.
 
I pulled it in 3rd gear, released clutch slowly. I pulled it in 4th gear, released clutch slowly. One Tire forward, one Tire backwards.
1/4" gap fire on all 4 cylinders. New points.
 
Well, it takes 1) compression, 2) air, 3) fuel, 4) spark at right time. He says he has all of the above. Which is not 'true'?
 
No "he" didn't say he had all the above! I said I want getting fuel to the cylinders (hence the Topic). There is no fuel getting Pat the intake. And I truly take offense to thee not telling the truth bit. I do have a general knowledge of how an internal combustion engine works.thanks
 
(quoted from post at 17:50:28 05/12/17) Well, it takes 1) compression, 2) air, 3) fuel, 4) spark at right time. He says he has all of the above. Which is not 'true'?
If it will not start with starting fluid, I would rule a fuel problem.

Number one is closest to the radiator.

Time for compression test. HOw does it turn over? Normal or slow?
 
Compression check is showing 92,92,94,92 respectfully.
Actually it turns over slightly slower than normal, I contribute that to the possible new bearings?
 
(quoted from post at 19:59:22 05/12/17) No "he" didn't say he had all the above! I said I want getting fuel to the cylinders (hence the Topic). There is no fuel getting Pat the intake. And I truly take offense to thee not telling the truth bit. I do have a general knowledge of how an internal combustion engine works.thanks
f, if fact you used starting fluid, then you did in fact have fuel! Not calling you a liar, just that so very often people 'think' that they have absolutely verified things that they really haven't. Here this certainly appears to be the case or else with all 4 elements present, you would at least have a pop.
 
(quoted from post at 20:11:53 05/12/17) I don't consider a POP, running. I didn't day it didn't POP. It is not getting fuel to the top of the piston
K, then, what made the pop if it wasn't fuel burning?
 
(quoted from post at 20:15:20 05/12/17) Possibly the wd-40 I sprayed in #4 cylinder
K, so now we have fuel in number four and a spark & a pop. We are moving along. So we next need to ask, what might possibly keep starting fluid sprayed into the carb inlet from reaching #4 and actually all 4 cylinders?
 
JMOR, I don't wanna come off as an ungrateful igmo, but this isn't my first rebuild and I am considered a fairly decent home mechanic. I just am at about at my wits end. I Gabe been trying since February to get this started. I just don't know why the fuel is not teaching the cylinders
 
Your first post said it started an ran after your rebuild, so that indicated that at that point in time that the crank to camshaft timing was correct, and later I believe you said compression at #1 when rotor at #1, so that would indicate that you still have compression on #1 and a pop on #4 would indicate the same, thus crank/cam timing ok. So, unless the intake valves are so maladjusted that air/fuel can't get past 4 intake valves, I see no reason for no fuel to cylinders when sprayed into open throttle carb. Oh, wait....is throttle plate of carb opening?.
 
Your first post said it started an ran after your rebuild, so that indicated that at that point in time that the crank to camshaft timing was correct, and later I believe you said compression at #1 when rotor at #1, so that would indicate that you still have compression on #1 and a pop on #4 would indicate the same, thus crank/cam timing ok. So, unless the intake valves are so maladjusted that air/fuel can't get past 4 intake valves, I see no reason for no fuel to cylinders when sprayed into open throttle carb. Oh, wait....is throttle plate of carb opening?. choke open?
 
I checked valve adjustment and all are dead center of recommendation. Just put new throttle plate with rebuild (today).
There is very strong suction at intake, both through the carb and at intake inlet without carb.
 
(quoted from post at 20:39:15 05/12/17) I checked valve adjustment and all are dead center of recommendation. Just put new throttle plate with rebuild (today).
There is very strong suction at intake, both through the carb and at intake inlet without carb.
wish I were there, but since I'm not, at this point I'm thinking that perhaps the plugs are fouled. Try different plugs, even an old set & don't choke it.
 

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i guess that's my long winded way of asking - are u absolutely positively sure the fuel is not getting to the cylinders?
 
When I remove the plugs, all four, there is absolutely no gas. There is also no gas coming thru the exhaust, or going in the oil, if gas was going in the cylinders, seems like it would be going somewhere?
 
(quoted from post at 20:53:19 05/12/17) When I remove the plugs, all four, there is absolutely no gas. There is also no gas coming thru the exhaust, or going in the oil, if gas was going in the cylinders, seems like it would be going somewhere?
hope you are not looking for "wet"...not supposed to be liquid....that will generally foul a plug to point of no fire. That is why I suggested try others, even old ones from the bench or tool box.
 
No, I'm just saying, if the plug is in the cylinder, gas,even in its vaporized state, will be noticeable on the plug.
 
(quoted from post at 21:00:12 05/12/17) No, I'm just saying, if the plug is in the cylinder, gas,even in its vaporized state, will be noticeable on the plug.
ardon my ignorance, but how is it going to be noticeable?
 
If it is sliding a wheel in 4th, engine is awfully tight or something is locked up.

The fuel into the cylinders will be vapor, not liquid, so you won't "see" fuel.

Put two teaspoons of fuel in each cylinder and see if it will start or pop.
 
When you spend 4 hours at a time spinning the engine, trying to start it, and you pull the plugs and they are Bone dry, there is no gas in the oil and no gas coming out the exhaust, I would be 99.8% sure there is no gas going into the cylinders.
 
0.2% will get you. Despite the protestations & denial, IF the 4 things pointed out at the beginning are all on time & present, the engine would be running, or at the very least firing out exhaust or carb, so..........just find which one is not as perceived. For get gasoline, turn gas valve off, swap plugs and apply starting fluid spray as a starting point. If you don't wish to do those things, I can not help you from here.
 
Okay. Thanks. But I have earnestly declared that all 4 elements are not present. But thank you JMOR for your time
 
Plenty of gas flow to carb,

Do you mean to the inlet elbow or out of the drain plug ?

When trying to start it and you choke it does gas drip out of the bottom of the carb through the brass vent on the bottom after you stop cranking ?

Where are you verifying spark ? Are you pulling a plug and testing that plug ? Sometimes plugs get fouled and look perfect but do not spark but ground out .
 
(quoted from post at 21:22:56 05/12/17) Okay. Thanks. But I have earnestly declared that all 4 elements are not present. But thank you JMOR for your time
do not know how you can say that!!! You said that you sprayed starting fluid into the intake! Come on! Do you want your tractor to run or do you just want to be obstinate?
 
hey Hammerhead........you quote "Compression check is showing 92,92,94,92". Ford specs: 90psi min. Good runnin' N-Engines run about 110psi. Brand NEW rebuilt engine should check about 125psi. Now we're all here tryin' to help you and you copp an "attitude". Thats gonna gittcha a NO HELP. JMOR know his $hit, so lighten up, eh? 2nd; keep yer itchy-twitchy finger off'n them handy-dandy carbie tweek'ums and AWAY from that spring loaded choke. You've FLOODED yer sparkies and will NEVER start. Don't argue, replace'em AGAIN. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. Don't throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, just clean'n'dry 'em one-atta-time in HOT running engine and save'um fer the next time. (and there will be a NEXT time) And whats this $HIT about WD-40 sprayed down the sparkie holes. WD-40 it is NON-COMBUSTABLE. Iff'n yer trying to build compression and 92psi is LOW, use a teaspoon (1-oz) of ATF down the sparkie hole. Turn yer engine over a couple of times to spread it around and seal yer rings. Now puttchur CLEAN DRY sparkies back in. Iff'n yer gonna use ether-quickstart, just spray it into the mouth of yer carbie just before you crank yer engine. Remember to turn yer ignition switch ON. One last comment, yer NEW points (0.025) kenn slip closed 'cuz the 8-32 BRASS screw wears in the STEEL points plate. Its gotta bee a SHORT 3/16 'cuz 1/4 will catch on the distributor advance plate underneath. Condensers seldom wear out, thats NOTCHUR problem as described........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister and SCOLD
 
If gas is going up to the cylinders, it's not running, it's not going in the block and it's not coming out the exhaust, where is the gas going?
 
Flows out the drain plug. Gas comes out the mouth after choking. I'm not sure, but I don't recall seeing anything coming out the brass drain
 

OK, you've confirmed all the above!

You said: "Tried pulling, but guess grass was too wet, 1 wheel went forward and the other backwards?"

This could indicate the timing is advanced. Could be the points advance is stuck in the advanced position.

To check, remove the dist. cap and try to turn the points opening cam back and forth. It should, with fly weights going in and out a little. If it is frozen in one spot then dissemble dist. advance unit and free it up.

Easy enough to check!
Good luck
 
I thoroughly cleaned distributor yesterday and fly weights were'free'. I wi check for movement with cam though. Thanks
 
Yes, fly weights are moving when I wiggle cam. I put née plugs in, gas off, starting fluid in mouth of carb, choke, one loud pop, nothing else. Gas on, choke, nothing, but gas out brass drain and mouth of carb?
 
Every time I have used starting fluid I get more than a pop. It will actually will run for a few seconds, then I know it is a fuel problem. If it will not run on starting fluid, then you need to look else whee for you problem.
I would recheck every thing, verify spark, recheck valve timing. compression sounds good. If you have had the distributor out maybe it is a tooth off. I think you said side mount dist.
What I am trying to say is don't get hung up on it being a fuel problem. If a different carb from a running machine did not work that should tell you it is not a fuel problem.
Good luck
 
(quoted from post at 08:18:35 05/13/17) Yes, fly weights are moving when I wiggle cam. I put née plugs in, gas off, starting fluid in mouth of carb, choke, one loud pop, nothing else. Gas on, choke, nothing, but gas out brass drain and mouth of carb?

I have seen motors pop or back fire and kick back a distributor that was just lightly bolted down . I your dizzy rotated a few degrees then your spark may be occurring a split second before the compression is built up enough or just a little late .

If it is early I think it will be hard to turn over . That could be the resistance on your rear tires when trying to pull start . If it is late it will just spin as you hit the starter .

Do you have a timing mark and timing light ?
 
I see you swapped carbs with one from a running tractor. That tells
me your problem is not fuel. I would look at spark and timing.
 

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