Decal v/s painting mask for Ford Logo

TJ in KY

Member
I am in the process of finishing up my 1950 Ford 8N and I am looking for some info on decals v/s the painting mask for the Ford logos, good or bad. I would think either one would be hard to get positioned exactly. I guess the only other options would be if I can find someone that does pin-striping and hire it done, or do it myself.
Also what type of decal should I be looking for, I see some are vinyl and others are mylar. either one easier to apply?
I am looking for any tips or tricks to getting the job done.
 
(quoted from post at 11:59:15 05/02/17) I am in the process of finishing up my 1950 Ford 8N and I am looking for some info on decals v/s the painting mask for the Ford logos, good or bad. I would think either one would be hard to get positioned exactly. I guess the only other options would be if I can find someone that does pin-striping and hire it done, or do it myself.
Also what type of decal should I be looking for, I see some are vinyl and others are mylar. either one easier to apply?
I am looking for any tips or tricks to getting the job done.

Can't say on Ford Script decals as I've never used them. I have painted the script red, several ways. The painting mask is difficult to lay flat enough for sharp crisp edges. I've had good luck a couple of times using a small roller for the red. Last time the roller wasn't working for me though, making too much of a mess so I did them by hand with a small artist brush. Easier than I thought it would be, and came out real nice.

Decals in general: My preference is vinyl. They are a heavier decal, and look really nice. Never had a problem with air bubbles with vinyl.

The mylar decals are very thin and can wrinkle and crush up while trying to position. Though I have had good luck with them using water to avoid bubbles.
 
(quoted from post at 13:16:03 05/02/17) I have had good luck with them using water to avoid bubbles.

i don't follow this. what are u doing with the water?
 
(quoted from post at 10:07:41 05/02/17)
(quoted from post at 13:16:03 05/02/17) I have had good luck with them using water to avoid bubbles.

i don't follow this. what are u doing with the water?

Wetting down th surface allows for easier repositioning as you install...

I hand-painted mine.

es

op8n_0628paintinglogo.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:10:44 05/02/17)
(quoted from post at 10:07:41 05/02/17)
(quoted from post at 13:16:03 05/02/17) I have had good luck with them using water to avoid bubbles.

i don't follow this. what are u doing with the water?

Wetting down th surface allows for easier repositioning as you install...

I hand-painted mine.

es

op8n_0628paintinglogo.jpg

the adhesive on the decal is unaffected by the water?
 

Have one or two sizes of small quality brushes.
If your painting hand isn't steady enough, ground your left elbow to the hood and hold your painting hand wrist with your left hand to steady it.

concentrate on painting the top flat surfaces of the letters and don't worry about the slopes on each letter. When getting your lines straight and well defined don't worry if your passes take you slightly down the slopes of letters till you get the edges clean cut.

There's my two cents worth. :)

Ed,
you must have a super steady hand to be doing it that way!
Or you were a sign painter in a former life! :)
 
the adhesive on the decal is unaffected by the water?

Only slightly. I manage the specs for vinyl decals we use on my employer's products, and recommend dry installs, as using water does slightly weaken the bond. But for our old N decals, it's not enough to worry about.

Ed, you must have a super steady hand to be doing it that way! Or you were a sign painter in a former life! :)

While I'm an industrial designer and had a lot of art and design in college, I wouldn't recommend you look at it too closely... :c)

es
 
From my own experience I'll bring this to the table. The vinyl decal sets sold today do not match up to the FORD script stamped on the hood. They will work and you can't tell unless right up close and really look. This is probably the cheapest way to go and easiest to do. Best results obtained if you spray with a bottle of WINDEX as you work to allow the decal to slide around and get positioned correctly as possible. Other methods involve using a 2" printers roller and applying over the raised FORD script gently, maybe 2 or 3 coats. Another method is to hand paint and that requires patience and a non-arthritic or carpal tunnel hand. With these last two methods I'd suggest having few rags and some mineral spirits (paint thinner, charcoal lighter -it's al the same thing) handy to wipe any drips and/or spills onto areas you don't want painted red. Get a brush assortment kit from your local art supply house and test til you feel right with one or two. With the methods that require paint, you can also use a mild grease, Vaseline, or your wife's cold cream to apply to areas you don't want to paint red. Mask off surrounding area with old newspaper. Use a can of spray paint too to hit the red areas, then once dry, you can remove the masking and wipe off the grease. I have not tried the masks that come with the vinyl kit, just didn't see them being practical and more work than needed with probable unsatisfactory results...

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I'very only used soapy water with mylar decals. I don't know if you can use it with the vinyl decals. The mylar still sticks fine as you end up squeegeeing out all the water
 
"The vinyl decal sets sold today do not match up to the FORD script stamped on the hood."

X2. They don't match the fenders either. If you have script fenders.
They're close, but not exactly right and can be difficult to position
because you can't really see through the paper backing.
The instructions actually call for using water or Windex.
 

You need the rite brush to do it by hand,,, some thinner to make the paint flow and like magic you can pull the paint anywhere you want it to go...
 
Thanks for all the replies, good information on the decal types and install video was very helpful. I think I am going
to try my hand at painting by practicing technique on the old hood and fender I have laying around and see if I can
do it to my liking. Lots going on and a little vacation time in the next couple of weeks, I will post pictures when
done. Thanks again.
 
I would like to fill you in on the details I have posted them in the past I can not locate it now and my brush is so old I have wore the numbers off it.

I use to be into model building when you could get good brushes and paint to work with but those places are history now local anyways.

The brush is the ticket plus using a thinner. I use a cap off a rattle can of paint, I put the paint in the center compartment and a little thinner in the outside compartment. You will have to play with dipping the brush in the thinner and then into the paint to find the combination that will flow the paint and the paint not dry out while you are pulling the line.

With a good brush and mix of the paint you can pull a long straight line with one dip of the brush in the paint.

https://www.google.com/search?q=bes...57.17357j0j4&amp;sourceid=chrome&amp;ie=UTF-8
 

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