9N Tough Start (or not at all) Rough Running, Stalling

I accidentally posted this in the wrong category originally.

A few weeks back my 9N was working without any problems, and following a couple hours of work, it suddenly stalled out. It sounded as though it ran out of fuel, so the next morning I filled it with fresh fuel and started it up, but it was running very rough and missing frequently. I let it idle for a little while and it was running rougher and rougher. So I did the following over the past couple weeks:
Drained the fuel and filled with fresh gas.
Pulled the Carb, cleaned it, reinstalled it.
Replaced the plugs, gapped and spark to each plug.
Pulled the distributor, gapped the points to spec, made sure it was timed correctly.

Following the above, I made an effort to fire it back up multiple times in-between each task.

I narrowed everything back to an assumed fuel problem with the old carb, so I replaced the carb with a brand new one (yes, fuel gets to the carb, as well as air).

After installing the new carb which took a week to arrive the tractor fired right up and ran very rough, and got rougher and rougher until it stalled out. At this exact moment it will not start.

After all the appropriate troubleshooting, I have another theory as to what it could be, but I would like to see if someone here suggests it.

Does the spark jump 1/4 " in open air?

Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb.
Turn the fuel on 2 turns. Will the flow fill
a pint jar in 2 minutes?
75 Tips

Cboc33,Like Bruce said ,check the spark 1/4" at each plug wire in open air.Also yo might recheck the points gap to be sure they haven't slipped closed.

" After all the appropriate troubleshooting, I have another theory as to what it could be, but I would like to see if someone here suggests it. "

Sorry, no, but you won't find many takers on guessing games around here. You seem to be doing pretty well taking random shots at what the problem might be and assuming that you are troubleshooting.

What you have done is replace good working parts in an attempt to fix an undiagnosed problem. I?ve done that and I?m sure others around here have done it too.

You have spent probably $200 plus hours of time & frustration w/o having the slightest clue as to what is causing the tractor to shut off & not restart. Worse yet, by replacing all of those parts, you have probably introduced more problems.



I've tried a number of different methods to get a non-running car/truck/tractor to start. One way was to just start replacing every part I could get to until it started or I ran out of money. Another way was to take the advice of my well intentioned, non-mechanic friends who would tell me that when their vehicle had the same symptoms, it was the whatever that was broke or needed adjusting. I'd then try that, usually w/o getting it to run. But, when I was occasionally successful, from that point on, every time the vehicle had those symptoms, I was confident that the same fix as before would work again. It usually didn't.

Your friends (and maybe your experience ) will often get in the way of fixing your tractor. Rarely are guesses like "It's the coil" helpful. We can make a long list of possible causes for the tractor not running and start picking our favorite to check out. Or, we can step back and recognize that the trick to fixing these tractors (or trouble shooting any piece of equipment) is to be systematic about it. You need to isolate the problem system by system, step by step and work from most likely to least likely and replace parts only when you confirm they are defective. Jumping ahead to 'so-and-so said it could be whatever' or just replacing parts usually just wastes your time and your money.

It takes three things for an engine to run: spark at the right time, compression, & gas/air in the right mixture. Compression is easy; check it with a gauge. But, you don't lose compression overnight, so if your tractor won't start, or suddenly cuts off, forget about compression for the moment, & concentrate on narrowing the problem to fuel or spark. If you don't do that, you are going to end up chasing your tail around that tractor & spending a boatload of money to fix what could easily be a loose wire or a clogged fuel tank vent. I offer this advice from personal experience because I am not a magician. I do not have the magical ability to simply diagnose the problem & go right to the fix. And I don?t like playing guessing games either. So, whenever my tractors stop, I check spark & fuel then go from there.

I might not be capable of telling you why your tractor isn't running, but I sure can tell you how to figure it out for yourself.

Bottom line:

Does the tractor have a spark that will jump 1/4" in open air?*

Will the gas drain out of the carb bowl in a steady stream and fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

How do I know this part is defective?

These are the questions you need answered before you attempt any repairs or buy a new part.

*If you don?t own a spark checker w/ an adjustable gap, buy one. In the meantime, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least ?? will work. Ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine turn the key on & look for a spark.

Cboc33,Remember (Always) check for spark first,then check fuel flow to avoid tractor FIRES!

Cboc33........I flunked mind reading, just ask my ex-wife of 38-yrs. Now ya gotta NEW carbie that needs adjusting buttcha kent 'cuz yer idle won't idle. BIG TIP: replace yer condenser. (again?) Many condensers are BAD rite outta the box. Now adjust yer carbie. Set the down-pointing MAINJET to 2-turns and LEAVITT!!! Adjust the side-pointing idlemix fer FASTEST idle, NOT SMOOTHEST idle. Understand the difference??? Usually about 1/8-1/4 turn. Ennytime you have running issues, replace yer sparkies. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. Don't throw yer old sparkies away, just clean'n'dry 'um in one-atta-time in HOT running engine and save'um fer the next time. (and there will be a NEXT time) Oh yeah, yer points (0.015) are best replaced on the kitchen table. Just un-snapple the capple and remove the 2-bolts and walk. Installation is a reversal of the removal ...except... finger start yer 2-bolts, install yer rotor and rotate yer rotor until the OFF-SET tang fits the OFF-SET slot in the camshaft. Now tighten the 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh? As fer yer current "non-start", stick the corner of $1-bill (cheap) between the closed points and PULL. Polish the INVISIBLE CORROSION from between the points. Shuld gittcha running......HTH, the amazed Dell and self-appointed sparkie-meister

(quoted from post at 22:38:15 04/27/17)
After all the appropriate troubleshooting, I have another theory as to what it could be, but I would like to see if someone here suggests it.

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u forgot its birthday?

(reply to post at 20:06:39 04/27/17)

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Bruce, is it possible that some teeth on the camshaft gear could have sheared off? Have your ever seen this?

That will do it every damn time.

Cboc33,Did you have any of the bolts out of the governor and have it off?If so and you put the wrong to (long) bolt in the wrong place then yes, it could be the cam gear is bad now.

There are many self proclaimed mechanics who are nothing more than parts
swappers.

(quoted from post at 13:10:25 04/28/17) There are many self proclaimed mechanics who are nothing more than parts
swappers.

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WGM, we play nice around here..........