WhosWhoo's pics - 9N/8N

From the first picture I agree with your posted serial number.
#2 - tells me you have an 8N center front axle, radius rods
and a side mount distributor.
(and some more things to fix, but you'll get to those)
#3 - 8N rear axle, hood and dash with proofmeter for side mount.
#4 - besides the dash, the spin off shift knob and pedals agree
with a later style 8N from what I can see.
#5 - placement of the oil filler tube and what look to be home
brewed alternator brackets, among other things, makes me
think this was a 9N block that was converted. 8N Starter/solenoid.
#6 - Timing hole looks to be home/shop done too. Not original.
Oh, and you have an exhaust leak.

Maybe others will see things I missed.
I'll bet it turns out to be a great tractor with a little TLC.

is the front mount distributor really [i:c31ae3b7c6]that[/i:c31ae3b7c6] horrifying that many would choose to graft a side mount on in its place?

yeah, rite.......when I replaced the sparkies on my eazy starting 52-8N, I had my then 9-yo son due it (with adult supervision of course) I gotta set of real copper core sparkie wires with right-angle booties fer Chevy V-8 from a HOT-ROD shop. Cut to fit 'stedda drape all over as in the picture. BIG CAUTION: many replacement sparkie wires are carbon string to keep the sparkies from muckin' with yer BelchFire-V8 computer. And yer 8N hazza computer? ........HTH, the amazed Dell and self-appointed sparkie-meister

The later 8n dash would also indicate a later steering box.
I agree it's a side mount conversion and from the looks of the looks of
the alternator it's a little too far forward. The belt may be on too
much of an angle.
This is one of the reasons I would not suggest the side mount
conversion. On my conversion the oil fill tube was cut down and the
alternator moved back so that the alternator sits over most most of the
oil fill. The cap was also replaced with a shorter one and still can
barely get it off and getting the oil in isn't easy. The oil filter is
too far forward which could have been moved back with an aftermarket
head. They have double holes for either front or side.
The early 9n block governor had no oil line to the governor so you can
see the line added from the filter to the 8n governor which would have
been needed for the control arms to be right for the throttle.

Kirk

Ain't nothing wrong with front mounts. Some people like a bit of a
challenge and some people just use what they have. I would not
recommend a side mount conversion. I feel it's more trouble then
it's worth.
That say my side coversion wouldn't start the other day. Just
popped the dizzy cap, no spark. The fiber piece that moves the arm
was worn down (cheap points). I just regapped them, until I get
get a new set, and it fire right up and I was off and running in
no time. I know it could have been done with the front dizzy but
with my old big arthridiccal​ hands it would have taken a lot
longer

Kirk

That front mount distributor was not Ford's
best piece of work. For me it wasn't my
hands but my knees. Getting down on your
knees on one side of the tractor then get up
and go kneel down on the other side.
Setting the timing on a side mount is a
simpler matter and more accurate too.
But they all have their idiosyncrasies.
Try putting points in a 3 cylinder Ford or
getting at that back starter bolt on one.
Neither job is one you want to do around
children or 'polite company'.

Someone brought the best, Beldon plug wires taint cheap but they are the best.

Ditto, Dogman. MY knees are both bone-on-bone now, need them replaced, keep putting it off -insurance reasons mostly. I do have my front-mount R&R procedure down now so I minimize my pain and suffering. Although my method adds a bit longer time to the procedure, I don't get up out of my chair until it's off and I can take to workbench or kitchen table. I use an old computer desk chair on casters so I can roll around the tractor while in a sitting position. Since I have XXXLLL hands, I found it much easier to loosen the generator first, then move fan belt up over the fan out of the way and let genny drop down out of the way. I remove the plug wires and secure with wire ties out of the way then loosen the coil wire, unsnap the coil bail and remove coil. Finally it's just time to loosen and remove the two mounting bolts and voila, the dizzy is in my hand and off to the repair table. I just developed this method after frustrating attempts at trying to work with the fan belt in the way so the extra time it takes now is well worth it.

Tim

(quoted from post at 05:58:49 04/21/17)
Someone brought the best, Beldon plug wires taint cheap but they are the best.

Click to expand...

They may be good wires but they are way too long!

I know I didnt purchase those wires lol. But it sounds like they are a good get.

Should I be concerned about them hanging on the manifold? I was going to try and tie them up and out of the way.

I mean that is not my biggest concern. I really need to try and get some oil pressure going. I have a good suggestion in another thread, and am going to try that today to prime the pump.

Does anyone else have any other suggestions on priming the oil pump? I havent made it very far into researching what it takes to get to the oil pump, is that quite the job? Or something that could be done in a few hours?

Getting to the pump is a major job, most like it has lost it prime.

(quoted from post at 10:22:35 04/22/17)


Should I be concerned about them hanging on the manifold? I was going to try and tie them up and out of the way.

Click to expand...

i would be concerned, yes.

Does anyone else have any other suggestions on priming the oil pump? I havent made it very far into researching what it takes to get to the oil pump, is that quite the job? Or something that could be done in a few hours?

Click to expand...

there's a 15/16" plug on the timing cover. i had my hood and doglegs off when i needed to prime mine, and it was an easy job to pull that plug, stick a piece of fuel line attached to the spout of a jug of 90W thru that hole and the one behind it and squeeze 4 or 5 ounces thru it to where it flows down into the pump. with the hood off, it was easy and quick. with the hood on, i don't know.

(quoted from post at 12:08:22 04/22/17)

(quoted from post at 10:22:35 04/22/17)


Should I be concerned about them hanging on the manifold? I was going to try and tie them up and out of the way.

Click to expand...

i would be concerned, yes.

Does anyone else have any other suggestions on priming the oil pump? I havent made it very far into researching what it takes to get to the oil pump, is that quite the job? Or something that could be done in a few hours?

Click to expand...

there's a 15/16" plug on the timing cover. i had my hood and doglegs off when i needed to prime mine, and it was an easy job to pull that plug, stick a piece of fuel line attached to the spout of a jug of 90W thru that hole and the one behind it and squeeze 4 or 5 ounces thru it to where it flows down into the pump. with the hood off, it was easy and quick. with the hood on, i don't know.

Click to expand...

It's not all that bad to get to the plug with the hood on either.
Much easier than getting to that pump!
There is a spring and plunger behind the plug. Don't lose them.

I, too, would be worried about the wires on the manifold.
They will melt in a matter of minutes.

(quoted from post at 23:32:18 04/22/17)
There is a spring and plunger behind the plug. Don't lose them.

Click to expand...

thank u. one of these days, i hope to remember to mention that part of it :idea:

(quoted from post at 18:58:17 04/23/17)

(quoted from post at 23:32:18 04/22/17)
There is a spring and plunger behind the plug. Don't lose them.

Click to expand...

thank u. one of these days, i hope to remember to mention that part of it :idea:

Click to expand...

We all help each other. Neither of us mentioned the flat spot.