Thinking about my old cracked block

Well now that I have a good block to work with I was thinking today about my old cracked block. Obviously you cant weld it you would end up chasing the cracks all over the place, brazing them might be an option but still the cracks might run. So I was thinking has anyone ever tried to sandblast the bore to clean white metal, you cant get it clean enough with a wire brush no matter how hard you try. So sandblast the bore to white metal, tin it up good with tinning compound and seal the cracks with lead. You can use a propane torch to work it in and that has a really soft heat. Lead is so soft you could probably work it down by hand without reboring the cylinder. All you are doing is sealing the crack and there will be a liner on one side and water on the other, the lead will never get hot enough to melt and should be just as stable as the cast iron. Just my mind running while sitting in traffic today. I am sandblasting the fenders and running boards and stuff this weekend I might give it a try. Anyone ever done it?
 
If the engine was out of a Duesenburg
Or Pierce Arrow it might be worth messing with.
But a Ford tractor? Meh.
I haven't followed your progress real close but did wonder why you didn't just glue new liners in it and run with it.
Probably would have lasted a long time.
 
Skip,I wouldn't waste my time or the torch gas on it.First the lead wouldn't stick without some good acid,2.the lead would have to be built up to hold anything.Then you would have to cut it all back out to put sleeves in it.You might v out the cracks but I don't think the lead would have much holding strength.If you v ed and brazed them the cracks would keep running all over.Then if you used something like liquid steel or JB weld before installing the sleeves could it be trusted not to leak antifreeze into the pan after heating and cooling cycles and ruin crank and the bearings.I wouldn't trust it.Best to just it as a boat anchor.Put your time into building the great engine you got for s song and just smile and be happy!
 

I welded up the water jacket on my NAA block. It still leaked a bit. Liquid Glass finished it up. Doesn't leak anymore. Mine was all external by freeze plug.
 
(quoted from post at 19:40:11 04/20/17) Well now that I have a good block to work with I was thinking today about my old cracked block. Obviously you cant weld it you would end up chasing the cracks all over the place, brazing them might be an option but still the cracks might run. So I was thinking has anyone ever tried to sandblast the bore to clean white metal, you cant get it clean enough with a wire brush no matter how hard you try. So sandblast the bore to white metal, tin it up good with tinning compound and seal the cracks with lead. You can use a propane torch to work it in and that has a really soft heat. Lead is so soft you could probably work it down by hand without reboring the cylinder. All you are doing is sealing the crack and there will be a liner on one side and water on the other, the lead will never get hot enough to melt and should be just as stable as the cast iron. Just my mind running while sitting in traffic today. I am sandblasting the fenders and running boards and stuff this weekend I might give it a try. Anyone ever done it?

If the cracks do not extend near the top or bottomedges of teh bore and I were going to try and salvage it I would just install new .090 sleeves with a 1" wide band of Loctite 640 at the top and bottom edges.

TOH
 

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