9n Spark Problem

Dogfarm

New User
Last year while pulling fence my tractor was sputtering and finally died. After letting it cool down it would start but would quit while under load (brush hog, pulling, etc ). Eventually it stopped even starting. Since I couldn't get it started I check to make sure it was getting fuel. It was. I then realized I was not getting spark in plug 1 and 4. I then Changed plugs and wires, replaced points, changed cool and got new distributor cap. It seems I am getting spark now. Talked to a few guys and they said it could be the resistor that is preventing me from getting good spark. Looking at the ballast resistor i don't see that it follows the wiring diagrams I find online. I'm about to take it in to get serviced, but would like to give it another shot because it seems like something simple. Thoughts on what it could be or how I can fix?

1939 9n
12 volt conversion
 

try jumping around the ballast resistor. it will not harm anything to perform this test.
 
i had the same kinda thing happen to me. The coil was bad. I had this happen a few times. The resistor was bad causing my coils to burn up. Not sure if that helps.
 
I'm trying to attach a photo of the wiring. It looks like the only thing running to ballast resistor is one wire from red light on dash. There is another white resistor connected to a wire which I've tried jumping already.
 

sorry, i thought u were referring to a white ceramic resistor in your original post.
 
(quoted from post at 15:49:44 04/09/17) I'm trying to attach a photo of the wiring.

posting pics can be an issue here. i believe there is some minimum post count before u can post pics, but that's just a guess on my part.
 
I have the resistor, but the way my tractor is wired there is no way to jump it. The ballast should be between ignition and coil right? Mine is not. However, the tractor used to run well, so even if wiring is different from found diagrams, I hate to start messing with it.
 
Ok Let me know if you can view photo. Here is what I'm
looking at.
a156913.jpg
 

ok, just so we're clear here, normally a 12 volt conversion uses two resistors. the first is the OEM resistor, which is mounted on the back of the dash. then there's the additional white ceramic resistor, which is added to protect a six volt coil from twelve volts. if u have a twelve volt coil, the only resistor u need is the OEM.

yes, these resistors are (or should be) in the path of electricity to the coil. i understand your reluctance to change from a system that once worked, and until we know how your wiring is, i wouldn't suggest changing it.

the resistor i am talking about jumping is the white ceramic one, if this is indeed wired in your system.

bear in mind that any component, such as either of these resistors, can fail with age. so the wiring may still be right, and still could prevent the tractor from starting or running properly.
 

ah, a picture is worth a thousand words :)

i now see the ceramic blob resistor (love that description :) ) is not wired. i will assume the suspect is the white thing you're touching in that pic. take a wire and run it from the terminal that thing is connected to in the picture to the stud on top of the coil to test whether that component is the problem.

what i do NOT see is the OEM ballast resistor. i will leave further diagnosis of this, assuming that bypass wire doesn't work, to the wiring gurus here.
 

ah, i just remembered u said the resistor is not inline with the coil, so forget that part about jumping it. where IS that thing wired between?
 
There is only one wire running to the bolt that fastens the ballast resistor. So this ballast resistor I assume serves zero purpose. The resistor in my hand i believe is in line with the wire that goes directly to the coil.
 
(quoted from post at 16:44:09 04/09/17) There is only one wire running to the bolt that fastens the ballast resistor. So this ballast resistor I assume serves zero purpose.

i would assume the same, as well as assuming that one wire is attached because it was a convenient ground point.
 
I sprayed some started fluid in the intake and I am getting
backfire. So I am getting some spark. I will try to check plugs
again, but after doing some reading, thought, is it possible it
could be a stuck valve(s)?
 
(quoted from post at 16:54:27 04/10/17) I sprayed some started fluid in the intake and I am getting
backfire. So I am getting some spark. I will try to check plugs
again, but after doing some reading, thought, is it possible it
could be a stuck valve(s)?
b:2375a51ed0][i:2375a51ed0]

Backfiring is a timing problem!!!!!! Are you sure the plug wires are right, from the plugs to/through the distrib???????
Firing order 1243 c/c wise.!!!

Gary[/i:2375a51ed0][/b:2375a51ed0]
 
Ok. Yeah plugs and wires are correct. Firing 1,2,4,3. I'll have
to pull the dist off and check the timing. From your experience
how touchy is the timing? I put new points on and thought I
had it set correct, but as you know it is tough to measure.
 
(quoted from post at 19:41:37 04/10/17) Ok. Yeah plugs and wires are correct. Firing 1,2,4,3. I'll have
to pull the dist off and check the timing. From your experience
how touchy is the timing? I put new points on and thought I
had it set correct, but as you know it is tough to measure.
b:338ebe4590][i:338ebe4590]

Pull the distrib. and re-check your setting of the points.....(0.015)
Then re-install the distrib. and recheck the firing order.....with this pic.


Engine should at least fire if not run.
Re check spark at the plugs!!!

Gary[/i:338ebe4590][/b:338ebe4590]
 
Ok. Adjusted timing. The tractor doesn't backfire anymore but
still won't start. It will sputter when I spray starter fluid in the
intake but won't start up. While I had the distributor off, I
checked to make sure the points were opening and closing
and they looked good. Now, I was able to wiggle the cam a
little in the distributor but it was only about one mm forward
and back. I have no clue what to look at anymore to try to
diagnose. Could it be carb related? The carb is getting gas
and when I pulled it off it's clean, float not sticking. Any
suggestions?
 
(quoted from post at 19:44:31 04/17/17) Ok. Adjusted timing. The tractor doesn't backfire anymore but
still won't start. It will sputter when I spray starter fluid in the
intake but won't start up. While I had the distributor off, I
checked to make sure the points were opening and closing
and they looked good. Now, I was able to wiggle the cam a
little in the distributor but it was only about one mm forward
and back. I have no clue what to look at anymore to try to
diagnose. Could it be carb related? The carb is getting gas
and when I pulled it off it's clean, float not sticking. Any
suggestions?

Ya needs ta replace the rotor shaft bushins that much play will muck up yer day..... :wink:
 

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