Stuck clutch what would you do?

GunnyIa

Member
Hi all,

I have a stuck clutch on a 1947 8N. I've tried towing a load around, no luck. I sprayed several cans of carb cleaner behind the flywheel, while turning & pounding on the flywheel, and letting it sit for a few days with the clutch peddle blocked down, no luck.

I'm 74, and I am not excited about splitting the tractor (I've done it before). My mind says "go for it", my body says "h*ll NO".

What would you do? Would you keep spraying carb cleaner on it while turning the flywheel? Or would you hook up the 5' box blade and tear up a mile long roadway with the tractor in neutral? Or would you spend the bucks, split the tractor, and install a new clutch kit?

What say you all? Opinions greatly appreciated by this old Gunny!

Thanks.
Gunny, in Iowa
 
I just split one for the same reason Gunny, but I'm only in
my early 50's so its not quite as rough on me I imagine.
What do you know about the tractor? Is it yours so you know
it has only sat for a short period or is it a new acquisition?
I think that would influence my decision.
If it is a new acquisition and sat for an unknown amount of
time I would probably split it to see how bad things are.

47556.jpg
 
Why would you tear up the drive way in neutral? Do it with the clutch held down, but has to be in gear to pull the
blade. Higher gear puts more load on the clutch. Try blading in 3rd.
 
I know the feeling-I'm 60 something and sure wouldnt tackle a split by
myself like I have years before..I'd try anything before splitting---not a
big deal for a whippersnapper but a big deal for me at this point in
life..I need to sell my 2N but just wont do it..I use it for Nothing..have
way more sunk in it than I'll ever get out of it..
 
Hi again,

Royce, it's my tractor. The clutch was stuck earlier & I was able to get it unstuck by using carb cleaner. My grandson used his phone, stuck it into the starter hole, and took a video of the clutch moving in & out when the peddle was pushed. Job well done! Then, I forgot to block down the clutch peddle for a few weeks, and it stuck again.

Your absolutely correct, Roger, the tractor needs to be in gear for the tractor to move! What was I thinking? Guess I wasn't. I've got an excuse, I'm old! I'm a little concerned about jamming the tractor into 3rd gear while engine running. Wouldn't that beak gears, or kill the engine, or worse, jump forward throwing me off the seat?

Appreciate your opinions! Thanks.
Gunny, in Iowa
 
If it were me I'd do that grading work, 2nd gear (on my 9 anyway, maybe an 8's 3rd is equvilant) but remember to hold the clutch down!
 

I think that at this point I would spray some penetrating oil in on it and give it some time to work. You can always burn it off if it frees up. You will want to slip it a good bit after it frees up anyway in order to clean the rust off the flywheel.
 
Gunny, if you can, coast it down a slope with it running and put in 3rd gear. Otherwise, at idle, jam into first gear,
then run it up to full throttle, bump out of gear and idle down, jam into 3rd.

It should come loose since it hasn't been stuck forever. Once roaded (got it into 8th gear without a clutch) a 3020 for
an hour before it came loose.

I may be older than you, just turned 72.
 
With an 8N you can start it in gear by grounding the wire
that connects to the tranny mounted neutral safety switch.
Just make sure you are on the tractor, have plenty of room
to drive and keep yourself safe. They're not worth a life.
 
Take starter out spray brake cleaner on the clutch,I use a whole can let it
soak in for a while, put it in 4th gear and rock it back and forth. Also block
the clutch in the depressed position when ya park it.
 
Hi again,

Some good suggestions here! I really appreciate everyone's opinion & experience. Since I'm trying to avoid splitting the tractor, I'll pick up some PB Blaster and soak the clutch. I forgot about rocking the rear tire, I'll do that too. If no luck, I'll then hook up the box blade & tear up the roadway "in 3rd gear, with the clutch peddle held down".

Courious, anyone drill a hole in the casing, to insert a pry bar or screw driver, to free up the clutch? Don't know if that's even possible, but thought about it.

Thanks!
Gunny, in Iowa
 
'I'll pick up some PB Blaster and soak the clutch.'

I soaked the one in the picture with PB Blaster.
It came off in about 30 minutes or so with very little pressure.
I couldn't pry it off that flywheel prior to soaking it.
That's after I drug it over half a mile behind another tractor with
it in gear and the clutch pedal depressed without it freeing up.

But I don't intend on re-using that clutch disk.
If I did, I'm not so sure I would have done it that way.
If it eats rust that fast, what will it do to the clutch surface and
it's wear pattern/longevity? That's an open question as I don't know.

I have seen holes drilled in the casings for that same reason.
I don't have any of them around any more or I would take
some measurements for you. It certainly wouldn't have to be
a precise measurement since you would have to get a tool of
some sort through it. I would make it a standard size for a
push in electrical box plug or welsh plug so it is easy to close.
 
I have unstuck them two ways. 1. Push the clutch pedal down and tie or block it down then go in the timing hole or starter hole and take a screwdriver and pry the disc off the flywheel. 2. Take the tractor out and hold the clutch down and put it in 1st gear and start it up. When it catches and starts moving along keep holding the clutch down and stand on both brakes, it may take one or two times but it should break free. I have a 5610 Ford that will stick if you look at it funny and I have had to unstick it like that several times, now we have a piece of 2X4 we just block the pedal down with when we put it up.
 
My Dad had an 8N with a stuck clutch. He took it to the Ford dealer and they drilled a hole in the housing with a hole saw. Popped it loose with a bar and put a rubber plug in the hole. A round hole wouldn't compromise the strength of the casting.

You would just have to figure the correct place to drill.
 
(quoted from post at 14:41:25 04/09/17) Lord have mercy that thing looks like it was soaked in salt water for a few years
You mean it won't just buff right out? ;)
 
Hi again,

Well, I tried all the tricks and none worked. So I split the tractor today and wow, was that clutch stuck! I got it loose then off the tractor. The new assembly is here and ready to install.

It's a hair past 2 PM, so a nap is calling. Will clean up the flywheel tomorrow with a wire wheel on a grinder, and install the new clutch. If I get all that done tomorrow, I'll be an old happy camper!

Bye

Gunny, in Iowa
 
(quoted from post at 12:28:49 04/22/17) Hi again,

Well, I tried all the tricks and none worked. So I split the tractor today and wow, was that clutch stuck! I got it loose then off the tractor. The new assembly is here and ready to install.

It's a hair past 2 PM, so a nap is calling. Will clean up the flywheel tomorrow with a wire wheel on a grinder, and install the new clutch. If I get all that done tomorrow, I'll be an old happy camper!

Bye

Gunny, in Iowa

Check the surface of the flywheel for little cracks be fore putting it back together. It is not likely that an N is going to overheat the flywheel, but if there are a lot of little cracks or discoloring you should have it resurfaced.
 
(quoted from post at 15:28:49 04/22/17) Hi again,

Well, I tried all the tricks and none worked. So I split the tractor today and wow, was that clutch stuck! I got it loose then off the tractor. The new assembly is here and ready to install.

It's a hair past 2 PM, so a nap is calling. Will clean up the flywheel tomorrow with a wire wheel on a grinder, and install the new clutch. If I get all that done tomorrow, I'll be an old happy camper!

Bye

Gunny, in Iowa
Sorry you had to go through all that effort Gunny, but you got it.
Was there any oil leaking on that clutch disk that might have
helped cause the problem or is it just rusty?
Now would be the time to change the front trans seal too.
It might help keep it from happening again for $1 or so.
 
Hi again,

Their was no oil on the flywheel, it was dry and had pieces of clutch stuff stuck so tight it took a sharp chisel & hammer to get it off! I then used a wire brush to polish the flywheel. Ater cleaning, I closely inspected the flywheel for cracks, saw none.

I've watched U-tube videos on removing blind bearings. Think I'll try removing the blind bearing in the middle of the flywheel (part # C5NN7600A) using toilet paper! Don't know if it is pressed on or not.

I am also considering replacing the throwout bearing (part # C0NN7580A). Both bearings came with the clutch kit. Might as well use them? Are you talking about the rear seal? I would need to drop the oil pan, no? Not sure I want to let this project "creep" that much. If I did, then the oil pump rebuild would also need attention, then the crank bearings, etc., etc.

I tried to upload pictures (modern view) but no luck so far. I did this before, just forgot how. My back already hurts!

Appreciate the feedback. Lots of helpful info from you folks!

Gunny, in Iowa
 

Leave the rear engine seal alone, replace the front trans seal. 4 bolts real easy when you have it split.
 
(quoted from post at 16:01:35 04/23/17) Hi again,
I tried to upload pictures (modern view) but no luck so far. I did this before, just forgot how. My back already hurts!

Gunny,

[b:c43db9ca96]Photo Uploading in Modern View.[/b:c43db9ca96]

Forget that "Choose File" button lower down that you've probably tried.
That method hasn't worked since this YT Forum developed problems a while back, where the normal photo uploading method ceased to function as did the option to go back and EDIT (change) what you had already successfully posted.

Below where I am typing this to you right now,
You'll see: ADVANCED POSTING TOOLS in a [color=darkred:c43db9ca96]red banner heading.[/color:c43db9ca96]

In the blue colored options there, click:
[b:c43db9ca96][color=darkblue:c43db9ca96]Upload Photo[/color:c43db9ca96][/b:c43db9ca96]

THEN in new pane that opens --> [b:c43db9ca96]Choose File[/b:c43db9ca96]

Navigate to your desired photo

THEN ---> [b:c43db9ca96]Upload [/b:c43db9ca96]

THEN if you are satisfied that the visual preview is the desired photo,
click the [b:c43db9ca96]CONTINUE[/b:c43db9ca96] button just above the little preview of your photo.
the photo link will appear in the text body of your post.

Finally, click the usual big [b:c43db9ca96]SUBMIT[/b:c43db9ca96] button that you normally use to post a message.
 
Don't worry about filling in all the other fields in that pane; i.e., Make, Model, Year etc. It isn't necessary to add that info.
 
If oil wasn't the problem, I wouldn't be so concerned but
I was not referring to your rear engine main seal, just the
front seal on the transmission. Much easier than a main seal.

I struggle over the bearing replacement.
If the new ones are quality bearings, sure, why not.
If they aren't good quality, what's wrong with the old ones?
You said they were included, which makes me think they may
be of a lesser quality. Granted, that may be totally off base.
Toilet paper? I'll have to look that one up! :)
 
Thanks Tall T, I was using the wrong upload area. Just to test it out, this is the flywheel before cleaning. Sorry for the fuzzy pic, it's the cameras fault!

48106.jpg


Gunny, in Iowa
 
Royce, I think I found the "seal" you are referring to, part # 8N7052A ? Would NAPA carry this, or must I order from this site?

The bearings came with the clutch kit, which also came from this site. The throwout bearing is in a box with "ATLANTIC Quality Parts" on the box. Since it came from this site, I would like to believe the bearings are quality parts, too.

Here is a picture of the other side of this project. Is the throw-out (or release) bearing pressed on, requiring a puller to get it off? Is this where I replace the seal?

48107.jpg


You (and all others) have been a great help! Sure makes the project much easier for this old man! Many THANKS.

Gunny, in Iowa
 
(quoted from post at 18:38:10 04/23/17) Royce, I think I found the "seal" you are referring to, part # 8N7052A ? Would NAPA carry this, or must I order from this site?

The bearings came with the clutch kit, which also came from this site. The throwout bearing is in a box with "ATLANTIC Quality Parts" on the box. Since it came from this site, I would like to believe the bearings are quality parts, too.

Here is a picture of the other side of this project. Is the throw-out (or release) bearing pressed on, requiring a puller to get it off? Is this where I replace the seal?

48107.jpg


You (and all others) have been a great help! Sure makes the project much easier for this old man! Many THANKS.

Gunny, in Iowa

The throw out bearing should come off pretty easy, the front trans seal is in the housing holding the input shaft in your photo. I doubt that NAPA would have the seal, but this site does. I used all bearings and seals from this site myself. No problems at all.
 

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