fuel filter

good morning all. Just returned from my cabin after working on my 51 8n, It seemed to be starving for fuel so I drained the fuel tank and removed the fuel bowl assembly. everything looked pretty clean and put it back. My brother in law installed a inline fuel filter (see through) and there was only a trickle of fuel going into it. As soon as I loosened the clamp the air that was in the filter could escape and it filled right up with fuel. I guess it was air locked and couldn't get enough fuel to run under load. I am going to remove the hood to remove the radiator, both radiator side supports that are attached to the radiator are broken loose. Was wondering if I should get it repaired or replace the radiator while it is apart. I think this is the last repair on this tractor,i hope.

" I guess it was air locked "

Yes, because the needle valve was closed inside the carb. Make sure the filter attached to the elbow is not clogged.

Your post sorta exploded with different topics, so why don't we get the fuel thing done first. If you drained your tank before removing the fuel bowl, that implies you had fuel draining at a normal rate up to the point where you disconnected the line to drain the tank. There are three filters in the fuel system.., any one or all could be the problem. Did you take the gas cap off to drain it? If so, that could indicate your vent hole (inaccessible on top of the tank) may be stopped up and that would cause the symptom of fuel starvation after a few minutes of operation. Start it and let it run, as you notice the starvation beginning, quickly take the gas cap off (you may hear a "whoosh" as well) and if the engine then runs OK, you know the problem (stopped up vent). You can get a vented gas cap until you do take the hood off and can clean the vent hole.

" I think this is the last repair on this tractor,i hope." Hope & dream! It is about 70 years old!

" both radiator side supports that are attached to the radiator are broken loose. Was wondering if I should get it repaired or replace the radiator "

By all means, fix it. Even if it costs as much as a new radiator, fix it. No radiator you will buy today is built as good as the OEM radiator.

" I think this is the last repair on this tractor,i hope. "

As long as you don't ever plan on operating it again, yea.

" My brother in law installed a inline fuel filter "

Why?

See tip # 15.
75 Tips

Yes, agreed that we tackle one issue at a time. Let?s talk fuel issue first, the radiator issue needs to be addressed too but I?d work on the fuel issue first. We?re gonna start with 20 questions: How did you determine that it was ?starving for fuel?? Sputtering? Running, then stopping? Hard or not starting? How long has it been since last run? How old is/ gas in tank? How much gas in tank? Tractor stored outside? Covered? These old N?s don?t need any new fangled parts installed, i.e. in-line fuel filter for one. There are three in-line fuel filters already in place on the Ford N-Series Tractor fuel system. Using pictures listed below, you have your basic fuel sediment bowl assembly installed in the bottom of the gas tank. That assembly unit holds two of three filters. The ? NPT end that screws into the gas tank has the first filter glued (use to be soldered) onto the base. It is about 1-1/32? long and is a fine mesh piece that serves to filter debris from getting into the system before entering the fuel line to carb. It is especially effective when the fuel stem valve is fully opened to access the one gallon reserve when fuel gets that low. Often these old tanks contain a lot of debris ?chaff, rust, straw, oat and rye seed, etc. Next is a 1-3/4? large round fine mesh brass screen that sets under the base of the top of the unit. Its purpose is to strain out anything that gets thru to the glass bowl before getting pulled thru the fuel line to the carb. The third fuel filter is on the brass fuel inlet elbow on the carb itself. The fine mesh screen on it is a little less than 1? long and its purpose is to ensure no small particles of anything get thru to the carb. It really is a pretty effective system so there is no need to put your money into additional gimmicks that you don?t need. A fuel leak issue is not to be ignored either. Often times the valve stem has a worn seal inside and this will cause leaks a the sediment bowl. The valve stem can be purchased as a separate part so no need to buy a whole new sediment bowl assembly. I learned a long time ago to put a dab of Loctite Thread sealant on the tiny 8-32 screw that secures the valve knob to the stem. It makes it so it won?t come loose during use and fall off in the field. There is also a #8 star washer under that screw as well. So, let?s review: The Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly. Body screws into gas tank. 1st filter on top of fuel intake to glass bowl. 2nd filter on top of body ?note orientation of the square on screen to the square fuel out port on body underside. Glass bowl is the sediment collector for debris getting past the first two screens in the unit. Glass bowl secured to body with a cork (don?t use rubber) gasket. Secure tight in place with the swivel bail attached. Install valve stem assembly with knurled fuel valve control knob using 8-32 screw and #8 star washer. Threads in and out are a special straight pipe thread. Compression fittings on both ends of the proper fuel line are 7/16? AF (Across Flats) and you should always use a 7/6? flare nut wrench and never pliers or vise grips. Always start with fingers to prevent cross threading and so you can feel the compression fittings seating properly. Next is using the correct steel fuel line going to carb. These are sold today pre-bent and with the correct fittings. NEVER use copper, plastic, nylon, rubber, or paper fuel lines. Fuel line then is secured into the brass inlet elbow on the carb. Again, always start with fingers, never force, and never apply a wrench until fully secure into elbow. Sediment Bowl fuel valve knob has markings ??MAIN -OPEN TWO FULL TURNS? and opens in the counter-clockwise direction. You use the setting for all your starting and operating needs ?nothing more or less. The reserve tank is marked as such: ?RESERVE ?FULL OPEN? and should only be used in an emergency when you are very low on fuel and need that last gallon in reserve to make it back to the barn. Fuel Valve Knob closes off fuel completely by turning in the clock-wise direction til it stops. Always shut off fuel when you stop the tractor for any length of time.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

SEDIMENT BOWL ASSEMBLY:

SEDIMENT BOWL & FUEL FILTERS:

SEDIMENT BOWL VALVE STEM ASSEMBLY, 8-32 SCREW, #8 STAR WASHER, AND LOCTITE THREAD SEALANT;

SEDMENT BOWL VALVE STEM WORN SEALS:

Thank you all for the valuable information. In answer to all who helped here goes.
The fuel filter is a see through a fram g3
I removed the sediment bowl assembly to make sure it was open not seeing gas enter into the see through filter.
I replaced the fine mesh screen in the fuel bowl assembly and made sure the vertical filter in the assembly was clean all seemed ok
The gas in the tank 9 gallon's was new fuel I just put in
The tractor is a late model 8n sn.427+
Garage kept
I replaced the filter in the carburetor when I rebuilt it a month ago.
I really didn't want to replace the fuel filter but I had one and I put it on (so send me to bed with no supper lol}
When I loosened the clamp at the carburetor that is when the filter filled up and I realized what happened (I'm a dumb A--)
Bruce I will take your advise and get the radiator repaired thank you.
I probably will replace the inline fuel filter I really don't like plastic with gas that close to the exhaust.

i'm not telling u to keep the inline filter, but my N came with one from the previous owner. not only is it plastic, it was literally touching the manifold.

i did not remove it (and have had no problems with it in there), but i DID bend the fuel line so that the filter no longer touches the manifold.