Starter install before remounting engine

Is it OK to install the starter before I put the engine back on my tractor? Its original and its ridiculous to remove and replace. I was hoping to install it while the engine was still off the tractor.

I'm just about to reinstall the oil pan so I'm still a few steps away so I could be missing some obvious reason why that's not a good idea.

1941 9N

Thanks!
 
If the flywheel is on the engine, sure, go
ahead. But I don't see how it's going to be
any easier. You will still need to maneuver
the bendix over the flywheel
75 Tips
 
Just be careful when you mount the engine to the trans. I would wait myself and do it after the engine is mounted.
 
Might be easier to see what's holding it up. For sure it will be easier before he puts the oil filter canister on.
 
I'm leaning towards building out the entire engine before I remount it on the back half. Obviously some connections can't be made but I want to add all the components accept for the head than use the head studs as anchor points for the engine crane.

Anyhow, I just mounted the oil pan and the timing covers. I'm going to mount up the alternator, the water pump, the belt, the governor, the int/exh manifold, the carb and the oil filter. Then I'll flip it over and prime the oil pump, flip it back, remove it from the stand and mount the flywheel, the clutch and then the starter.

The bendix has to be easier with the engine off and I don't want to mess up the paint. I'm a givin' it a whirl. If it works I'll post a "thrill of victory" video, if it doesn't I'll post the "agony of defeat" video.

At the very least the engine will look cool doing it.
 
(quoted from post at 18:13:51 04/03/17) I'm leaning towards building out the entire engine before I remount it on the back half. Obviously some connections can't be made but I want to add all the components accept for the head than use the head studs as anchor points for the engine crane.

Anyhow, I just mounted the oil pan and the timing covers. I'm going to mount up the alternator, the water pump, the belt, the governor, the int/exh manifold, the carb and the oil filter. Then I'll flip it over and prime the oil pump, flip it back, remove it from the stand and mount the flywheel, the clutch and then the starter.

The bendix has to be easier with the engine off and I don't want to mess up the paint. I'm a givin' it a whirl. If it works I'll post a "thrill of victory" video, if it doesn't I'll post the "agony of defeat" video.

At the very least the engine will look cool doing it.

Actually the oil filter and the little drain valve have to go last or I won't be able get the starter in the hole! Sorry I tried to edit the originl but it was too soon.
 

I have done this several times and I don't recommend doing what you suggest. It will just make the engine heavier to maneuver around to get the clutch lined up. Plus once it is connected to the back of the tractor it is much more secure and steady for mounting everything on the engine than it would be on any engine stand. Putting the starter on is not a problem with the oil filter off.

Your tractor, do what you want, just my opinion.
 
It worked like a champ. I painted the exhaust so there was a little smoke at first but it ran so quietly and smoothly compared to how it was before that I thought I screwed it up somehow.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fb5U6hjZZjI

I drove it around some during the break in and the only trouble I had was a little oil leaking at the valve cover inspection plates. I didn't want to use sealant on those gaskets and maybe I should have. I tightened them up a bit more so we'll see how that goes.

[b:57402a0794]Some questions that came up:[/b:57402a0794]

How long should I run the break in oil before I change it?

What tire pressure do people usually run?

My alternator pulley is offset by about an inch or so from lining up directly with the other pulleys. Should I care?

[b:57402a0794]Things I would do different:[/b:57402a0794]

I should have taken pictures of the throttle linkage.

I $hould have bought a rebuild kit (or replacement) governor.

I $hould have rewired it.

I $hould have put in a modern electronic ignition. I don't know about you but my distributor is an ill fitting mess and many of the mounting holes for the points are stripped out. I'm amazed it works.

[b:57402a0794]Costs:[/b:57402a0794]

All in I would put it at around 3 thousand dollars. The engine had been rebuilt before but never properly machined so there were lots of things that were less than perfect. I spent $1600 with the machine shop which i believe is above average. I bought a pile of new parts including rotating valves, adjustable tappets, alternator, gauges, many other things I can't remember. Needless to say I am upside down on it but it should at least run perfect for the rest of my life. And if the tranny and hydraulics hold out, I may even still be able to use it that long.
 

I actually built nearly the entire engine out on the stand, moved it to the crane and stabbed it by myself using a very handy trick. You take two 7/16-14 (coarse) bolts that are about 5 inches long and you cut the heads off of them. Then you screw them into the engine at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock holes just before you start lining it up to mount the engine on the tractor.

From there, all you need to do is slip the ends of the bolts into the corresponding holes on the transmission side and slowly push the engine into place. Using the alignment bolts, all you have to do is manage one axis, up and down as you bring the engine and transmission together.

If you meet any resistance and you've double checked your angle is correct, it's likely your shaft splines aren't just right. Simply turn the PTO shaft a smidgen. This will align the splines and presto, you're in.

I stabbed the fully built out motor all by myself in less than a minute.
 
I put two back together last week, much the same way.
One with the starter installed, one without it installed.

I wish I had done the second with the starter in it.
Both engines went in fine, but both starters had the old style
bendix and I wasn't holding my mouth just right so #2 fought.
I'm pretty sure by the time I was done I had the right combination
of curse words in the correct order at least three times! ;)

I put them back in with a cherry picker and a load leveler.
No problem getting height or tilt right and the bolts hold the
engine level side-to-side so the starter doesn't hit or bind.

Congrats on your success! I like the blue. Yes, I know, not original.
Are you painting the script on the sheet metal blue to match?
I've seen that done and it looks pretty sharp!
 
(quoted from post at 19:24:59 04/18/17)
Congrats on your success! I like the blue. Yes, I know, not original.
Are you painting the script on the sheet metal blue to match?
I've seen that done and it looks pretty sharp!

When I bought it, it was blue so I just sort of went with it. When I tried to match it the paint wasn't just right so I rattle canned the entire thing. Its the cleverly named "Ford Blue" (1787X) from Van Sickle on teh body and Light Ford Gray (465 - 1965 and newer) on teh fenders, seat and wheels. Awesome paint by the way. Y

I use the tractor about 4 or 5 hours per month so I haven't really considered paint details. It's all nice and shiny now though, maybe I'll add some finishing touches. I have a ton of work lined up for it though so it will be a while.
 

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