Lift leaks down when warm

OK, I replaced the lift cylinder and rings last fall cuz it barely lifted the disc and it dropped when I pushed the clutch in
now it lifts fine until it gits warm and it some times wont drop unless I shut it down fer a bit I cleaned the cases and the pump when I replaced the cylinder and rings seems to only have issues with the disc, its a six foot adjustable x configuration and I don't think its too much fer it to handle, any idears as to how to deal with this conundrum will be appreciated.....
 
If only leaks real slow and only with the disk, I'd leave it
alone..Obviously leaking with disk because it is probably the heaviest
thing you lift...If you really need to stop it from leakdown, first thing
I'd do is check the safety check valve to see if it is leaking and/or just
replace it and see what happens..I have had them leak so bad the disk would
fall to the ground soon as I clutched it to change gears..Just a thought..
 
(quoted from post at 04:51:19 04/02/17) " I cleaned the cases and the pump "

What does that mean?

Did you drop the pump &remove the intake & exhaust valves?
75 Tips

It means I dropped the pump and removed the top and removed all the sludge from the trans, and pump, and diff cases removed and replaced the safety valve did not do the other valves as they were working good at the time
 
(quoted from post at 09:38:22 04/02/17) If only leaks real slow and only with the disk, I'd leave it
alone..Obviously leaking with disk because it is probably the heaviest
thing you lift...If you really need to stop it from leakdown, first thing
I'd do is check the safety check valve to see if it is leaking and/or just
replace it and see what happens..I have had them leak so bad the disk would
fall to the ground soon as I clutched it to change gears..Just a thought..

When I first start it works fine, then
the leakage starts and gets worse as it heats up to the point that it just clears the ground when I lift to turn and occasionally wont drop back down or go up any higher unless I shut it down and wait for it to drop some on its own then drop the quad lever to make it go all the way down then restart and lift it again. After three or four hours of use it drags a little cuz it wont lift any more at idle and not much more when wound up. I'm thinkin maybe a combo of old tired pump, and control valves Guess I'll be savin my allowance fer a pump rebuild kit....... :roll:
 
(quoted from post at 19:56:41 04/02/17)
(quoted from post at 18:50:50 04/02/17)
What fluid are you using in the trans/hyd system?

I'm using straight 90wt.....
Maybe try 140wt and see if it helps..??
No 140 will not help. I thought maybe you had a real light oil in it. 90 wt should work just fine.
 
(quoted from post at 08:14:44 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 19:56:41 04/02/17)
(quoted from post at 18:50:50 04/02/17)
What fluid are you using in the trans/hyd system?

I'm using straight 90wt.....
Maybe try 140wt and see if it helps..??
No 140 will not help. I thought maybe you had a real light oil in it. 90 wt should work just fine.

Yeah yer right, I was just wishin fer an easy fix I have one more round of disking ta do and it handles the other implements OK, I just need to resign myself to a rebuild after planting is done, I gotta clean up the botched wiring the previous owner did when he did the 12v conversion also
 
(quoted from post at 12:00:15 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 08:14:44 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 19:56:41 04/02/17)
(quoted from post at 18:50:50 04/02/17)
What fluid are you using in the trans/hyd system?

I'm using straight 90wt.....
Maybe try 140wt and see if it helps..??
No 140 will not help. I thought maybe you had a real light oil in it. 90 wt should work just fine.

Yeah yer right, I was just wishin fer an easy fix I have one more round of disking ta do and it handles the other implements OK, I just need to resign myself to a rebuild after planting is done, I gotta clean up the botched wiring the previous owner did when he did the 12v conversion also
f you put a pressure gauge on it, you will see pressure fall as it warms up. On one 8N I can see it fall from 1500-1600# at cool start up , to 1000# after 30-45 minutes of work, to 800# after two hours and this with new cylinder/piston assy but old and clearly worn pump. Oil thins and leaks past excess clearance of ring less pump pistons. After 70 years wear shows.
 
(quoted from post at 18:56:41 04/02/17)
(quoted from post at 18:50:50 04/02/17)
What fluid are you using in the trans/hyd system?

I'm using straight 90wt.....
Maybe try 140wt and see if it helps..??

Cliff,

I realize that it's been said that if you up the viscosity, the leak down won't improve, and they may be right.

But, personally if it were me I would still try Amsoil Synthetic 75W140.
75W140
From past experience I suggest that it will retain more stability over time when hot and so stay truer, longer, to its rating.

It has surprised me in the past, the effect of heat on an oil's ability to do its thing. I had a friend who was an airline pilot and he told me one day that the clutches were slipping in his automatic GM van. He lived up one of our steepest mountains.

I changed ATF and filter and when I saw him later he said that the slippage had stopped. Many people neglect changing their old ATF. I honestly can't remember if I sold him Amsoil ATF or conventional. I sold many cases of Synthetic ATF to the Vancouver Police Department in the early 80's.

Cheers,
T
 
Cliff,
P.S.,

It could be that synthetic 75W110, with its inherent heat resistance would be enough improved action for you.
 
(quoted from post at 09:50:26 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 12:00:15 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 08:14:44 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 19:56:41 04/02/17)
(quoted from post at 18:50:50 04/02/17)
What fluid are you using in the trans/hyd system?

I'm using straight 90wt.....
Maybe try 140wt and see if it helps..??
No 140 will not help. I thought maybe you had a real light oil in it. 90 wt should work just fine.

Yeah yer right, I was just wishin fer an easy fix I have one more round of disking ta do and it handles the other implements OK, I just need to resign myself to a rebuild after planting is done, I gotta clean up the botched wiring the previous owner did when he did the 12v conversion also
f you put a pressure gauge on it, you will see pressure fall as it warms up. On one 8N I can see it fall from 1500-1600# at cool start up , to 1000# after 30-45 minutes of work, to 800# after two hours and this with new cylinder/piston assy but old and clearly worn pump. Oil thins and leaks past excess clearance of ring less pump pistons. After 70 years wear shows.

Yes the wear shows, I knew this in my heart but wanting an easy fix and getting one, as we all know don't happen much finished the disking today now the rest is coming........ :roll:
 
(quoted from post at 11:03:18 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 18:56:41 04/02/17)
(quoted from post at 18:50:50 04/02/17)
What fluid are you using in the trans/hyd system?

I'm using straight 90wt.....
Maybe try 140wt and see if it helps..??

Cliff,

I realize that it's been said that if you up the viscosity, the leak down won't improve, and they may be right.

But, personally if it were me I would still try Amsoil Synthetic 75W140.
75W140
From past experience I suggest that it will retain more stability over time when hot and so stay truer, longer, to its rating.

It has surprised me in the past, the effect of heat on an oil's ability to do its thing. I had a friend who was an airline pilot and he told me one day that the clutches were slipping in his automatic GM van. He lived up one of our steepest mountains.

I changed ATF and filter and when I saw him later he said that the slippage had stopped. Many people neglect changing their old ATF. I honestly can't remember if I sold him Amsoil ATF or conventional. I sold many cases of Synthetic ATF to the Vancouver Police Department in the early 80's.

Cheers,
T

Thanks for the thought but at $18.00 a quart Ill pass..... :wink:
 
(quoted from post at 21:41:01 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 11:03:18 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 18:56:41 04/02/17)
(quoted from post at 18:50:50 04/02/17)
What fluid are you using in the trans/hyd system?

I'm using straight 90wt.....
Maybe try 140wt and see if it helps..??

Cliff,

I realize that it's been said that if you up the viscosity, the leak down won't improve, and they may be right.

But, personally if it were me I would still try Amsoil Synthetic 75W140.
75W140
From past experience I suggest that it will retain more stability over time when hot and so stay truer, longer, to its rating.

It has surprised me in the past, the effect of heat on an oil's ability to do its thing. I had a friend who was an airline pilot and he told me one day that the clutches were slipping in his automatic GM van. He lived up one of our steepest mountains.

I changed ATF and filter and when I saw him later he said that the slippage had stopped. Many people neglect changing their old ATF. I honestly can't remember if I sold him Amsoil ATF or conventional. I sold many cases of Synthetic ATF to the Vancouver Police Department in the early 80's.

Cheers,
T

Thanks for the thought but at $18.00 a quart Ill pass..... :wink:
eldom is there a magic fix in a can/bottle. Maybe booze with a hot date?
 
Thanks for the thought but at $18.00 a quart Ill pass..... :wink:[/quote]

No kidding! Price sound reasoning why it is that much more expensive than conventional. Consider that it might be that much better or that much more worth it.

Kind of like the silicone brake fluid story.
The first liter of it I bought was Cartel and it was $60.
Turned out to be more than worth it!
Next brand I saw come along was Dow Corning.
Now everyone from Harley to Canadian tire sells it and way cheaper.
I wouldn't use conventional brake fluid ever again if I didn't have to.

Look at your tractor dilema this way. I remember reading where synthetic gear lube could drop the temperature of a fuller transmission in a Kenworth up to 70 degrees on a highway run.

Remembered I mentioned my late Dairy owner friend Roger Hughes who's truck I did the Fuller and the Rockwell rears all expensive Amsoil synthetic? Well Roger told me after he got back from a trip to California that he had easily recouped any extra cash the synthetic had cost . . . it was either that or he said he got back ALL that he paid me . . . in fuel savings, Salt spring Island to California return. At this age stuff sure mysteriously drops out. But I do know he said one of those two things and that there was an outstanding difference that took him by surprise. I was just hoping when I talked him into it, that what I had read about the Fuller and other benefits of synthetic were all true and turns out they were! Obviously his equipment was running cooler, or he wouldn't have recooped any money. It was always like customers saying to me, "At this price it better be worth it." Nobody complained about the price after using it -- finding out that the rave reviews and my sales pitch based on those, weren't just hype!

So your tractor . . .
Even if you bought expensive but worth it, synthetic
and then concluded you had to do the pump, you'd still have the oil. (75W110)
I have a filter on my hydraulics that I'm hoping will keep babying my old vickers Vane and keeping the ram cylinder clean.

As far as a miracle in a bottle, results seemed pretty miraculous to me more than a few times. I remember totally silencing about 10 seriously clacking lifters.

1. My Drilling and Blasting company friend welcomed my pitch to convert his Ford truck so as clean up the engine and lifter body varnish so much with synthetic, that it would silence his 4 or 5 very noisy lifters. It did!
2. In Victoria, I had the bosses cars at Ryan Vending running on synthetic and one of their employees had a fully restored TransAm but with one very obvious sticky lifter. I did my pitch, converted his car and waited. He almost made a liar out of me but finally after a month . . . totally silent!
3. A big Ford station wagon of mine that I did oil conversions out of for a while, had 3 or 4 noisy lifters. Sounded like hammers on a cookie sheet. :)
After Amsoil 15W40 . . . totally silent in a few days asnd that Ford ran like silk after that. Honest to God! As we used to say.

Your tractor . . .
If the synthetic will obviously be running cooler, as a result of less friction you will have offset your oil's natural tendency to thin out with heat.
SO . . . in that case maybe stay faster flowing when cold and more heat stable when with warm with 75W110.

Then if you do redo your pump, you will still be light and fast flowing with the 75W110 (compared to 140) so you can reuse the oil.

Question . . . my Jube has the isolated oil supply as you know, so can I also run 75W110 (EP) as hydraulic oil?

Thanks,
Terry
 
(quoted from post at 19:21:24 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 21:41:01 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 11:03:18 04/03/17)
(quoted from post at 18:56:41 04/02/17)
(quoted from post at 18:50:50 04/02/17)
What fluid are you using in the trans/hyd system?

I'm using straight 90wt.....
Maybe try 140wt and see if it helps..??

Cliff,

I realize that it's been said that if you up the viscosity, the leak down won't improve, and they may be right.

But, personally if it were me I would still try Amsoil Synthetic 75W140.
75W140
From past experience I suggest that it will retain more stability over time when hot and so stay truer, longer, to its rating.

It has surprised me in the past, the effect of heat on an oil's ability to do its thing. I had a friend who was an airline pilot and he told me one day that the clutches were slipping in his automatic GM van. He lived up one of our steepest mountains.

I changed ATF and filter and when I saw him later he said that the slippage had stopped. Many people neglect changing their old ATF. I honestly can't remember if I sold him Amsoil ATF or conventional. I sold many cases of Synthetic ATF to the Vancouver Police Department in the early 80's.

Cheers,
T

Thanks for the thought but at $18.00 a quart Ill pass..... :wink:
eldom is there a magic fix in a can/bottle. Maybe booze with a hot date?

Booze and a broad can sure help the mental state fer sure.... :lol:
 

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