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Might be out of my league but......

M

Mickinohio

Member
Small acreage , looking at an 8n or similar for tilling , pulling smaller.logs , Bush hog . From what I've read tilling is out on 8n unless you have the Sherman and Howard gear. Found.one within a few hours , no implements , asking 2500. Not being mechanically inclined until something breaks , how do I verify these gears are there and in working.order ? Any and all tips and kicks in the behind welcome ! Thanks in advance. What would you suggest for a tiller ?
 
If it has a Sherman transmission it will have a shift lever on the left side from sitting in the seat of the transmission for a short time they did have a knob on the bottom right of the
dash but I think that is pretty uncommon
 
I would suggest something other than the N series for what you want. Even with a Sherman or Howard reducing unit the PTO shat speed falls off when the tractor speed is reduced. To save you future headaches try and find an equivalent sized 4 wheel drive unit.
 
$2500 is absolutely the highest end of what I would pay for a very good running N with very good rubber. Because you can get a good running 600, 800, 2000, etc Ford for
$3000-$3500 and they are much more capable tractors with more features and options.
That said, An N will do all of the tasks you mention and a few that you haven't even thought of yet.
Yes, forget about using a rototiller on one. I suppose you could find a Howard transmission so you can run a tiller. But they are not real common and rather expensive.
If you are wanting to run a tiller of snowblower or baler You are far better to spend your dough on a newer tractor in the first place.
These little Fords are made for plowing and discing. And for a lightweight, low hp machine they will outplow what other tractors 1000 lbs heavier and more HP will plow -
because of the 3 point hitch.
They are fun to mess with if you have basic wrenching skills, a treat to get on and run and will do a LOT of useful work.
I also advise you don't get caught up in the restoration craze on these things. You will will soon have $5K into a very basic tractor if you go down that road.
Far better to take the long view and buy a $5K tractor now and get features and options that they hadn't even heard of when they built the Ns.
 
(quoted from post at 01:31:19 03/20/16) Small acreage , looking at an 8n or similar for tilling , pulling smaller.logs , Bush hog . From what I've read tilling is out on 8n unless you have the Sherman and Howard gear. Found.one within a few hours , no implements , asking 2500. Not being mechanically inclined until something breaks , how do I verify these gears are there and in working.order ? Any and all tips and kicks in the behind welcome ! Thanks in advance. What would you suggest for a tiller ?
Click to expand...

For tilling with an 8N all you need is the Howard. It reduces ground speec by 3.5:1 without reducing PTO speed.

That's a little pricey for an 8N with Howard even in good condition. I would suggest you do some more looking. That is about what the Hundred series sell for around here and they are a big improvement over the N-series.

TOH
 
While you can't run a tiller with an N, you can pull a plow, small disc, and field cultivator... and end up with about the same $$$ invested as you would in a new Rototiller, and very similar results in the area you are working up, the worked ground will work better each year as well.

I have a 4000 and an 8N, the N is priceless when it comes to taking care of our property, as it fits places that my 4000 would only dream of, especially when the loader is on the 4000. Works great for skidding logs, and mowing trails, brush cutting and even working on food plots.
 
These days, $2,500 is a premium price for an 8N, even a late model.

Keep looking. You can probably find a 6/8** model for $2,500 or a bit more.

Dean
 
Mick,If it does indeed have the two auxiliary transmissions in it and are in good working condition and the tires,tin and engine are in good shape,and a N is what you like go for it.The transmissions alone add $1000 or more in value to the tractor.Many here would tell you to get a later model but most of them would not run a tiller either and they would jump on that one if they had a chance to keep or resell.
Auxiliary Transmissions

Smiths site
 
Of I where you I would not look for an N series Ford but I would looks for say an 601/661. Just a tad bit bigger in HP and with the 5 speed you can use a tiller and you also have a whole lot better tractor and $2500 is about right for one
 

I have found tilling to be useless on any tractor... Well it does do a good job of recycling grass so it will grow better the next go round... Unless I was wanting to till to smooth out I have never see them useful...

A N in good sound mechanical condition is a plow'N fool when its set up correctly...
 
Thanks to all ! Probably saved many missteps in the future , sounds like the 8n is a handy tractor , just not right for my needs. Glad I started early in my search and lucked out on finding this page .

The 8n I found with both trans mods is on Cleveland. craigslist.org in Avon , Ohio if anyone is interested.

Again , my sincere thanks to all.

Mick
 
Welcome to the forum!
May I ask why you want to run a rototiller?
A plow and a disk are cheaper to buy and maintain.
My experience here in Michigan is that they don't leave
the kind of hardpan a rototiller does either.

I agree that $2500 is high. The two aux transmissions are worth
money but only if you sell them. You only need one to run a tiller.
That one being the Howard. The Sherman would need to be in
the "straight through" mode to get correct PTO RPMs.

Here's a [b:cb3dbe15f7]link[/b:cb3dbe15f7] to the one I think you were looking at.
Oil pressure looks to be a bit low and the tires don't match.
They do look to be in pretty good shape though.
 
(quoted from post at 01:58:31 03/21/16) Welcome to the forum!
May I ask why you want to run a rototiller?
A plow and a disk are cheaper to buy and maintain.
My experience here in Michigan is that they don't leave
the kind of hardpan a rototiller does either.

I agree that $2500 is high. The two aux transmissions are worth
money but only if you sell them. You only need one to run a tiller.

Thanks! Love the input here. Amazing education , and free too !

The main reason I asked about the tiller I guess is I've recently had a major surgery that makes it a bit hard to do a lot of the physical activities I was able to do before , just thought a tiller would be easier to use.

Second point , I'm a city boy retired to the country so I've got a.lot to learn :) .

I'm actually in SE Ohio , Guernsey County and we have a ton of 8n tractors.for sale and I've yet there hear a bad word about them , thus , my interest . I have a few acres that I let grow and the neighbors cut and bale for their own use but we now have goats and chickens so I'm thinking I may try and save some $$ , bedding and feed for the animals in the future as well.

Appreciate the thoughts on plowing , will go and read up on that . Might work for me !

Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
When I made my earlier post I did not
understand that the tractor you were
considering already had both the Howard and
Sherman transmissions. If the tractor you
were considering is the same one that Royse
linked to then if it runs good I would give
my blessing on that deal. In fact it is a
pretty good deal if both of the aux trannys
function properly.
 

Appreciate the clarification , my main problem is I don't know enough about them more mechanically . I wouldn't know if they are operating properly , which led me here !

We have had the garden for a few years now and tilling with a walk behind won't be feasible from now on .

I'm liking the plow idea as.well , less to maintain and if just as efficient , I'm in !

That said, there are a ton of 8n units , some with Sherman trans listed . Average 2-3K within an hour's drive from me. I'm just looking on craigslist right now , any other sales sites it there I should be looking at ?

You folks are outstanding !
 
I have never owned a Howard but have owned a
few Shermans. I would just go through the
ranges on both transmissions. First the
Sherman - run the main transmission - say in
1st, 4th and reverse in all 3 Sherman ranges
- under, direct, over drive. Listen for
howling bearings, clicking gears and make
sure it shifts into all ranges.
On the Howard I would put the main trans in
2nd and put the pto in gear. Likewise listen
for howling, clicking, clashing with the
tractor at 3/4 throttle.
Others here will likely think of and offer
more tips to test them.
 
I would ask the guy if it can really till. If he says yes tell him you got the cash if he can prove it when you get there he has a sale....then Id watch him till with it and see how it does......I know it is not as technical as some other answers but simple enough right.
 
(quoted from post at 04:29:13 03/21/16) I would ask the guy if it can really till. If he says yes tell him you got the cash if he can prove it when you get there he has a sale....then Id watch him till with it and see how it does......I know it is not as technical as some other answers but simple enough right.
Click to expand...

92 , I like the way you think. Can't get any easier than that for sure !
 
(quoted from post at 21:58:20 03/20/16)
Appreciate the clarification , my main problem is I don't know enough about them more mechanically . I wouldn't know if they are operating properly , which led me here !

We have had the garden for a few years now and tilling with a walk behind won't be feasible from now on .

I'm liking the plow idea as.well , less to maintain and if just as efficient , I'm in !

That said, there are a ton of 8n units , some with Sherman trans listed . Average 2-3K within an hour's drive from me. I'm just looking on craigslist right now , any other sales sites it there I should be looking at ?

You folks are outstanding !
Click to expand...

The typical problem with the Howard transmissions is damage to the teeth on the reduction gears. Once the gear damage starts it gets progressively worse. The only reliable way to assess their condition is to look at the gears and that is hard to do with the transmission in the tractor. The first indicator of damage is a tendency of the Howard to jump out of low range engagement. If it won't stay in gear there is a problem. For all practical purposes damaged Howards are not servicable - replacement gears are non-existant.

Buying a Howard without visually inspecting the gears is a total crap shoot. Most I have seen for sale all have some minor damage already. Finding a pristine one is like winning the lottery.

If you [b:4bdf1ee4d2][u:4bdf1ee4d2]need a real working tractor[/u:4bdf1ee4d2][/b:4bdf1ee4d2] with the sort of gearing a Howard provides IMO you are far better off looking at newer model tractors which give you so much more along with the lower gearing. There are quite a few Hundred and Thousand series machines in your area plus a number of other brands. All under $4k and all of them will do what you want AND give you way more than you will ever get out of any 8N with Sherman and Howard. Here is just one I would look at - asking $3200:


1964 Case with loader

JMO and it's your money

TOH

[size=24:4bdf1ee4d2][b:4bdf1ee4d2][u:4bdf1ee4d2]A Roached Howard[/u:4bdf1ee4d2][/b:4bdf1ee4d2][/size:4bdf1ee4d2]

index_007_001.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:14:28 03/21/16)
(quoted from post at 21:58:20 03/20/16)
Appreciate the clarification , my main problem is I don't know enough about them more mechanically . I wouldn't know if they are operating properly , which led me here !

We have had the garden for a few years now and tilling with a walk behind won't be feasible from now on .

I'm liking the plow idea as.well , less to maintain and if just as efficient , I'm in !

That said, there are a ton of 8n units , some with Sherman trans listed . Average 2-3K within an hour's drive from me. I'm just looking on craigslist right now , any other sales sites it there I should be looking at ?

You folks are outstanding !
Click to expand...

The typical problem with the Howard transmissions is damage to the teeth on the reduction gears. Once the gear damage starts it gets progressively worse. The only reliable way to assess their condition is to look at the gears and that is hard to do with the transmission in the tractor. The first indicator of damage is a tendency of the Howard to jump out of low range engagement. If it won't stay in gear there is a problem. For all practical purposes damaged Howards are not servicable - replacement gears are non-existant.

Buying a Howard without visually inspecting the gears is a total crap shoot. Most I have seen for sale all have some minor damage already. Finding a pristine one is like winning the lottery.

If you [b:647a08e9dd][u:647a08e9dd]need a real working tractor[/u:647a08e9dd][/b:647a08e9dd] with the sort of gearing a Howard provides IMO you are far better off looking at newer model tractors which give you so much more along with the lower gearing. There are quite a few Hundred and Thousand series machines in your area plus a number of other brands. All under $4k and all of them will do what you want AND give you way more than you will ever get out of any 8N with Sherman and Howard. Here is just one I would look at - asking $3200:


1964 Case with loader

JMO and it's your money

TOH

I appreciate all info ! That looks like a beast as well ! That is about 2 hours away , I used to live in the Cleveland area , now more between Tusrarawas And Zanesville . Right now 2500 is about tops for me but will keep looking . Love the idea.of a loader as well for maintaining driveways and cleaning stalls. Thank you. Another had sent a link regarding the potential trans issues as well. Since I'm much better at breaking things than I am repairing , this too is eye opening .

Thanks again ! That Case , with some other implements would be more than adequate. Looks to have power steering as well and since my surgery , that would be a great help.also.
Click to expand...
 
If I where you I would sit back and keep my eyes and ears open and also watch for auctions etc. I have many tractor that cost me well under $500 each but I do also have the advantage of knowing how to repair them so I can buy cheap and in the long run end up with good running tractors. LIke one example a IH 300U that we payed $100 for ya it needed rear tires and a tune up but I drove it off the trailer on flat tires but it was running
 
(quoted from post at 10:49:27 03/21/16)
I appreciate all info ! That looks like a beast as well ! That is about 2 hours away , I used to live in the Cleveland area , now more between Tusrarawas And Zanesville . Right now 2500 is about tops for me but will keep looking . Love the idea.of a loader as well for maintaining driveways and cleaning stalls. Thank you. Another had sent a link regarding the potential trans issues as well. Since I'm much better at breaking things than I am repairing , this too is eye opening .

Thanks again ! That Case , with some other implements would be more than adequate. Looks to have power steering as well and since my surgery , that would be a great help.also.
Click to expand...

I understand the budgetary issues - been there and done that so this is the voice of experience talking. When you have a $2500 first ever tractor budget you are smack dab in the middle of "buying someone else's problems" territory.

N-series tractors are "inexpensive" but they lack a lot of very nice operational features and at 60-70+ years old they do not come without issues. Read the forum - the list is long and repetitive. Yes - parts are "cheap", and while some are readily available some are not. Cheap parts or not repetitive repairs will quickly nickle and dime you to death. You can also wind up spending more time fixing the machine than using it.

I am also a firm believer in diesel over gas. Diesel engines are simple and long lived mechanisms. Many/most of the problems here are ignition and fuel related. Diesels have no points, distributor, wires, spark plugs, or carburetor to maintain or fail and are pretty much immune to those problems. Post 1960 diesels can easily put 10K hours on the clock before they need overhaul. Try that with a gasser.....

As a first time tractor buyer you need to get exposure and education - lots of it. Go look at machines that are out of your budget. Look at some new small utility tractors. Make the salesman give you the spiel and educate yourself on features. Ask lots of dumb questions - it's how you learn ;-)

Then go look at some middle aged BIG machines because they don't sell as easily as smaller utility tractors. If you can go big you can generally get a LOT MORE used tractor for your money. It may be bigger than you actually need but if it isn't TOO big it may be the better choice.

Finally compare the over budget machines to the machines that are within your budget. Then ask yourself how much money it will take to keep the within budget machines running. Think utility, down time, and total cost of ownership. The nickels and dimes start flowing fast and furious with older, heavily worked and even abused tractors. They can be fun to collect and fix up but not so much if you need a machine to start and work for you every time you have a job that has to get done....

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 10:49:27 03/21/16)
I appreciate all info ! That looks like a beast as well ! That is about 2 hours away , I used to live in the Cleveland area , now more between Tusrarawas And Zanesville . Right now 2500 is about tops for me but will keep looking . Love the idea.of a loader as well for maintaining driveways and cleaning stalls. Thank you. Another had sent a link regarding the potential trans issues as well. Since I'm much better at breaking things than I am repairing , this too is eye opening .

Thanks again ! That Case , with some other implements would be more than adequate. Looks to have power steering as well and since my surgery , that would be a great help.also.
Click to expand...

Some good online search strings:

- Internatioonl tractor
- Farmall tractor
- David Brown tractor
- Case tractor
- Ferguson tractor
- John Deere tractor
- Kubota tractor

Here' one on the Zanesville Craigslist and close to your budget that I found in less than a minute. Early to mid 60's 43 HP IH diesel with 8 speed trasnmission, live PTO, "modern" hydraulics. disc brakes that work, decent looking tin and tires, and will roto-till all day long. Way more tractor for the same money as your 8N with Howard and Sherman. Probably more expensive to repair but also well worth it. Click on the image to go to the Craigslist ad.

TOH

 
Very good tractor advice TOH.
Bruce ought to include it in his list of
tips.
FWIW:
A lot of people are scared of diesels but
they do require a lot less maintenance, get
better fuel mileage and are very long lived.
My little 3 cyl diesel has been sitting in
the shed since mid October when I drove it
in, turned off the key and pulled the
battery. I won't even see it till mid May
when I go up to plow gardens and deer plots.
I will put a battery in it and it
[i:654c4848f0]WILL[/i:654c4848f0] start. No messing with points or
bad gas, no dinking around with a sticky
float or needle and seat. It Will start
with a turn of the key. And then it will
rattle and shake and smoke and stink for a
few minutes while I crawl under and over the
whole tractor looking for loose bolts,
missing cotter pins, leaks, worn check
chains, tires, making mental notes of things
I need to attend to, etc, etc. And then it
will go to work.
 
Hi folks ! Back from the dead , almost. Had a bit of a relapse and after healing up and getting the medications sorted out , i have just completed a purchase !

Welcome my new to me 1968 Ford 3000 gassed , Wood Loader , back blade and Woods 6ft finish mower !

3100 for the tractor loader and blade , 375 for the mower !

Steering needs some tightening up but hydraulics are solid and one leaks !! How did I do ?
 
Mick,

To illustrate what others have suggested to you, here's a nice fixer-upper 950 for $2000 but ready to work apparently. Money spent sprucing this one up could one day be recouped. I like these beauties. A couple of people here have them and all restored.

It's in my neighborhood though. I know . . . why am I not grabbing it! (?)
Well, it's the difference between Want and Need.:)

47293.jpg]950 Narrow Front
 
Welcome back Mick, I hope all is well health wise.

Tell us a little more about your new 3000 gasser.
What transmission does it have? Live PTO? Power steering?
The Woods finish mower sounds like a good deal if in working
order. The rest of the tractor does too, but HOW good of a deal,
to me anyway, would depend on what options it has on it.

I bought one a while back. Here are before and after pics of it.
Still getting the job done for me!

47296.jpg


47297.jpg
 
I don't see the pics Mick.
If you want to you can email them to me and I'll post them.
RoyseTractors at gmail.com
 
For the life of me I cannot figure out how to post the photos. I get them uploaded in the advanced box then hit submit as I don't see any other option buttons .

Options according to seller were power assist steering but I think it has a PS pump on the left ft side of engine. Been raining here and one bolt is stripped on the engine cover . Making room in the barn for it soon . Has high low gearing , rear tires Vic , front are shot. Previous owner mounted heavy cat tires for better balance and weight I guess. I'll keep trying to upload photos.
47300.jpg
47301.jpg
 
Rear tires look great, and they're the expensive ones.
Sticker on the dash makes it look like the 8 speed twin stick.
Great transmission with lots of gearing options. Power steering
is always a bonus, but nearly a necessity for loader work.
I think I can see a diff-lock pedal in there too.
If it runs and works well I think you did pretty darn good!
 
Thanks ! He did mention a diff lock but I was like a fat kid in a candy store wanting to get it home. Also has another separate lever on left side by seat I'm not sure of its function yet either. Manuals are on the way .

It shows , I believe 16k hours on meter ? Still has generator , all lights seem to work , brakes work , starts right up every time , it does have a slight surge in power even as engine idles , I added 93 octane.to help clean it up some and will get some seafood next fill up as well. , power steering or assist doesn't seem to . I want to do all fresh fluids so I'm sure I'm ready for the season

Any suggestions on types of fluids , including coolant is also greatly appreciated .

Lastly , what did you mean by the rears weren't the expensive tires ? Something else I need to learning guess. Thanks all.
 
Wow!

No Royse said you [b:d220556327]did[/b:d220556327] get the expensive tires so there a thousand right there. Looks like slightly curved lugs.

If the oil pressure is up and it doesn't burn oil
and if you put a rubber hose on your ear and listen to the oil pan, it sounds like an industrial sewing machine factory
I say you got a heck of a good deal!

One of those with a loader and bale spike
on the bucket was $6000 on a farm equipment list up here in igloo country.
No rear blade though.
It sat there for two months but must have sold.

When I posted that 950, I had missed that you had already bought this one.

Ya know, The only thing about that style front frame that detracts from an otherwise perfect look to me, is all those mount holes in the frame.

If I ever get one, I'm going to make two nice conforming cover plates . . .
maybe even chrome. :D

Hope it's all you hope it is
and doesn't need much more than TLC.

Speaking of fluids, Amsoil's got some great synthetic 75W110 and 75W140 gear lubes.

One time when I was a dealer, I sold a trucker all synthetic Amsoil gear lube for the Fuller transmission and for the two Rockwell differentials on his highway tractor. When he got back to his Burgogyne Dairy here on Salt Spring,
after a trucking trip to California, he told me, and I aint lyin',
that what he saved in fuel relative to previous trips
thanks to the reduction in friction, covered the big bucks he had paid me for all that expensive gear lube.
I've got 75W110 synthetic in my Jubilee transmission at the moment.

Enjoy the ride,
Terry
 
(quoted from post at 10:45:22 03/20/16)
I have found tilling to be useless on any tractor... Well it does do a good job of recycling grass so it will grow better the next go round... Unless I was wanting to till to smooth out I have never see them useful...

A N in good sound mechanical condition is a plow'N fool when its set up correctly...
Click to expand...

You can easily triple your stand of witch or quack grass by chopping those roots up with a rototiller
 

Mick,

Check out this 3000 with loader 15 miles away from here that looks like about the same condition as yours but with turf tires
and no back blade.

$9,000!!
click Here Ford 3000
 
(quoted from post at 06:47:17 04/04/17)
Mick,

Check out this 3000 with loader 15 miles away from here that looks like about the same condition as yours but with turf tires
and no back blade.

$9,000!!
click Here Ford 3000
Click to expand...

I'm thinking my purchase may be a win for me !! Doesn't happen too often . This company seems to be a predator for the less knowledgeable folks or it has gold wheel weights not shown in the sale ad .
 
Mick,
You wrote:
"I'm thinking my purchase may be a win for me !! Doesn't happen too often . This company seems to be a predator for the less knowledgeable folks or it has gold wheel weights not shown in the sale ad ."e]

If by "this company" you mean Island Tractor, my nearest New Holland/Kubota dealer, they have done right by me so far.
They took that Ford 3000 in trade no doubt, and are trying to recoop. They'd probably drop to $7000.

They sold me this MF 5' Rotary Cutter for $200. complete with a shaft guard I got them to throw in. Granted it was a fixer upper but still seems like an OK deal to me cause I like to refurb things anyway so I don't have nasty surprises.

BEFORE
47440.jpg


AFTER
47441.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 12:28:16 04/04/17)
(reply to post at 19:13:47 04/04/17)
Click to expand...

That's some nice work you do there ! I'm more adept at breaking things.

No disrespect meant to the company but that's around 7,000 USD ..
Click to expand...

Thanks!
Oh right, I forgot about the dollar difference.
$9000 = $6,742.00 U.S.

So if they would drop that Ford 3000 price to $7.000. CAD
that would only be $5,244.00 USD for you.

But either way, congratulations on a great deal! :)
 
(quoted from post at 11:13:47 04/04/17) Mick,
You wrote:
"I'm thinking my purchase may be a win for me !! Doesn't happen too often . This company seems to be a predator for the less knowledgeable folks or it has gold wheel weights not shown in the sale ad ."e]

If by "this company" you mean Island Tractor, my nearest New Holland/Kubota dealer, they have done right by me so far.
They took that Ford 3000 in trade no doubt, and are trying to recoop. They'd probably drop to $7000.

They sold me this MF 5' Rotary Cutter for $200. complete with a shaft guard I got them to throw in. Granted it was a fixer upper but still seems like an OK deal to me cause I like to refurb things anyway so I don't have nasty surprises.

BEFORE
47440.jpg


AFTER
47441.jpg
Click to expand...

Good deal on the rotary cutter. But how are the blades on it? From the looks of the left side of it, it looks like it has thrown lots of rocks at it.
 
Cary,

You wrote:
"Good deal on the rotary cutter. But how are the blades on it? From the looks of the left side of it, it looks like it has thrown lots of rocks at it."

I know that what you see there aside from the new tail wheel post and bearings is all just cosmetic, but I started with the most important stuff first.

The seal housing/end cap on the gearbox had a chunk of casting missing to the extent that the metal outer of the seal was partly visible.

So i made a puller to pull the hub, rebuilt the seal housing, got a new seal from Chicago and sharpened the blades. :)

The Goldberg Puller
47444.jpg

Seal Housing & New Seal
47445.jpg

Sharpened Blades
47446.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:48:57 04/04/17) Cary,

You wrote:
"Good deal on the rotary cutter. But how are the blades on it? From the looks of the left side of it, it looks like it has thrown lots of rocks at it."

I know that what you see there aside from the new tail wheel post and bearings is all just cosmetic, but I started with the most important stuff first.

The seal housing/end cap on the gearbox had a chunk of casting missing to the extent that the metal outer of the seal was partly visible.

So i made a puller to pull the hub, rebuilt the seal housing, got a new seal from Chicago and sharpened the blades. :)

The Goldberg Puller
47444.jpg

Seal Housing & New Seal
47445.jpg

Sharpened Blades
47446.jpg
Click to expand...

Great job and the best thing is that now you know everything is up to snuff. I think I remember you posting about this work before. Wish my mower looked that good. :wink:
 
Cary,

With every job seems to come a little bit of hindsight.

In a don't-try-this-at-home moment, I made a mistake that could have cost me a lot of grief. I had TOO MUCH faith in my home made hub puller and put far too much pressure on the pulling BEFORE I started heating the hub with OXY/Acet!!

I could have broken the cast blade bar retainer. You can see how it bent the thick soft steel bar I was using, around the jack foot.
So when I finally clued in that I needed serious heat, it would let go with a "squink" and then I'd have to reapply heat again.

I remember Hobo or someone saying I had put serious hurt on that piece of flat bar. I should have put serious heat on the hub sooner. :D

Anyway, got lucky again.

Terry
 
(quoted from post at 15:59:58 04/04/17) Cary,

With every job seems to come a little bit of hindsight.

In a don't-try-this-at-home moment, I made a mistake that could have cost me a lot of grief. I had TOO MUCH faith in my home made hub puller and put far too much pressure on the pulling BEFORE I started heating the hub with OXY/Acet!!

I could have broken the cast blade bar retainer. You can see how it bent the thick soft steel bar I was using, around the jack foot.
So when I finally clued in that I needed serious heat, it would let go with a "squink" and then I'd have to reapply heat again.

I remember Hobo or someone saying I had put serious hurt on that piece of flat bar. I should have put serious heat on the hub sooner. :D

Anyway, got lucky again.

Terry
Click to expand...

I have an old Woods M5 mower. Luckily for me the shaft and seals are still good and don't leak. There is a puller that Woods makes for removing the blade carrier on my mower and it's still available. I called once for the heck of it to find the price on it and it was like over $400. NO THANKS!
 
I have an old Woods M5 mower. Luckily for me the shaft and seals are still good and don't leak. There is a puller that Woods makes for removing the blade carrier on my mower and it's still available. I called once for the heck of it to find the price on it and it was like over $400. NO THANKS![/quote]

Cary,

No need on my end, my makeshift puller had tons of power as you can see by the bent bar and worked great, all I'll do next time is use lots of heat and sooner. :D
 
(quoted from post at 20:26:14 04/04/17) I have an old Woods M5 mower. Luckily for me the shaft and seals are still good and don't leak. There is a puller that Woods makes for removing the blade carrier on my mower and it's still available. I called once for the heck of it to find the price on it and it was like over $400. NO THANKS!
Click to expand...

Cary,

No need on my end, my makeshift puller had tons of power as you can see by the bent bar and worked great, all I'll do next time is use lots of heat and sooner. :D[/quote]

Even with that puller that Woods makes, they recommend using lots of heat.

Have you seen any of the videos on YouTube of the fools trying to get those things off? Very entertaining !
 
Cary,

You wrote:
"Have you seen any of the videos on YouTube of the fools trying to get those things off? Very entertaining !"

I recall watching one where the cutter is standing up against a wall and one guy is standing around like a supervisor. :D

It never ceases to amaze me why people post videos of themselves stumbling around, with shoddy mechanical habits, trying to come up with a solution as though that will be encouraging and istructive to viewers. Why not wait until you know what you have to do. :D

This video selfie
has been a Blind leading the Blind video production. :p
 
(quoted from post at 23:01:01 04/04/17) Cary,

You wrote:
"Have you seen any of the videos on YouTube of the fools trying to get those things off? Very entertaining !"

I recall watching one where the cutter is standing up against a wall and one guy is standing around like a supervisor. :D

It never ceases to amaze me why people post videos of themselves stumbling around, with shoddy mechanical habits, trying to come up with a solution as though that will be encouraging and istructive to viewers. Why not wait until you know what you have to do. :D

This video selfie
has been a Blind leading the Blind video production. :p
Click to expand...

There is one video where about 3 minutes into it, the guys neighbor fires up his lawn mower and you have to listen to that very annoying noise in the background all through the video.

He couldn't just wait for the guy to finish his lawn. :roll: :roll: :roll:
 
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