By all means get a lift type implement -that is why they invented the thing. Most pull behind implements are yard art these days, but not all. Any early Ferguson-Sherman to me is worth having in my collection just to have. I recently found and purchased an original Roderick-Lean 2-bottom plow, the one that Harry Ferguson sold and used on the Fordson Tractor utilizing the Duplex Hitch design and just prior to him developing the 3-point lift system. Anyway, since you're a newbie, be sure to get the essential manuals needed to be an N-owner. At least invest in the I&T F-04 Manual; it has most all of the major systems explained in a how-to remove and repair format as well a numerous sketches and diagrams from original parts manual. The next must-have is a copy of the original 8N Operator's Manual but get the one that is right for your model year -you don't tell us what year it is. Do you know where to look for the serial number? Early 8Ns used the front mount distributor, later ones used the side mount distributor. It matters as each manual only details one or the other. ALL 8N manuals have a chapter on plowing as well and how to set up and use the Dearborn Plow. The next important manual to own is a copy of the 39-53 MPC (Master Parts Catalog)as it has all the parts and diagrams spelled out in detail. You will need more than just a plow though to work the ground for planting a seed bed. Now, if the ground hasn't been worked in years, plowing will help get it ready but you'll need to disc it and maybe more after that. For food plots and gardens, a cultivator will work to loosen the ground too as Kirk shows below. Once the ground has been worked and planted and you intend to do it every year, twice is best -spring and fall, then you won't have a need to plow every time. Simply run a disc harrow or a cultivator to mulch under growth and prep for the next planting. Here's what I do now that I have plowed gardens and food plots all over the state. Each spring I run my Dearborn Disc Harrow and/or Dearborn Spring Shank Cultivator to mulch under the previous winter plantings which is usually rye, wheat, rape, clover, and other brassicas. Then I run my Dearborn Spring Tooth Drag to level off ground better and leave nice straight mini-furrows. Next, I use a standard Scotts Seed Spreader or an old hand spreader depending on how big the area is to broadcast whatever seed I have. In the spring I usually plant buckwheat so it grows during the summer and provides seed and cover for upland birds, turkey, and other critters as well. Some years I experiment in one plot and try corn, beets, or soybeans. I had a Dearborn-Peoria Grain Drill for the larger areas but have since sold that. In the fall, usually by Labor Day, I will disc up the buckwheat plots and seed them with rye, wheat, sorghum, rape, or a combination of all. In my areas, both here around the farm and up north at our 380 acres of pristine Michigan hardwood forests, I found beets, corn, soybeans, and a few other crops don't work well for deer and turkey. I found rye and wheat work best, at least in my areas. Most brassicas like clover, once the first frost hits them, the deer won't touch it. Seed prices will also dictate what I plant each year. Rye has gotten a bit high, sorghum is always high, and wheat stays the same and is about the cheapest and it works. The thing with wheat and rye is, when planted in September, by the October 1 bowhunting season and the November 15 firearm season it has reached a decent height that they love, and they will paw thru the snow all winter to get at it though it goes dormant. In the spring the rye and wheat take off and if let go, by June it will be waist high and gone to seed. They bot hare excellent crops that add nitrogen to the soil. I make sure I get to them by the end of May for the most part and disc and prep for the summer planting. It took some years of trial and error to get my system down, but remember each state and area is different so consult your local DNR, Wild Turkey Federation, Pheasants Forever, and your local Grain Elevator co-op that sells seed will have guys who will tell you what is best to plant for deer in your area.
Now, all that being said, if you still want a plow, that's a good start building your collection of implements. Since they will be for use, not as collectables to show just yet, I'll tell you to stay away from the early Ferguson-Sherman stuff and the early Dearborn plows. Both are no longer serviced and parts are rare as hens teeth to find if they even exist. The later Dearborn Economy Plows are still serviced, at least the important wear parts, but not the 10" and 12" plows. Maybe the 12" if you get real lucky. Look at getting a Dearborn Economy Plow in the 14" style as your best bet for 2-bottom; 16" one bottoms will work good too. The later FORD 101 Plow Series is even better as they have spring loaded trip mechanisms with a shear pin that allows the moldboards to flip up out of the way if an obstruction is encountered. My diagram below from the Dearborn Plows Master Parts Catalog shows the early Dearborn Moldboard (Prior Model) Plow and the later Dearborn Economy Plow. Stay away from the Prior Models. Your looking for a Dearborn Economy Plow, Model #10-156 for a decent 14" plow. A good idea too is to start looking for disc harrows and drags and hire out a local farmer who has plows to get your plots ready. He can also help you with what to plant in your area. So that is all my advice and comments for now...let us know what you decide.
Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
Required 8N Manuals:
Dearborn Plow Info:
