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8N doesn't run under load

S

SteveRussell

Member
8N , 1952 model, after 263xxx. Side Mount. The tractor is 150 miles away in the country so don't get to stay with it often. Problem, since Nov last will hardly run under in gear. Have had the carb rebuilt by professional. It seemed to be slow on the drain test. It would crank and idle, for seconds to a minute at a time When it last ran in January. Recently used fully charged battery. Cleaned points with a piece of brown kraft paper, it started and ran better, but replaced them with a new NAPA points and rotor. . The fuel delivery was still suspect in volume, drained and replaced the entire Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly. Found the filter screen was missing from the top of original one when pulled. (I already had the assembly on hand as a spare). The spark plugs were replaced in NOV 2016, and hasn't seen much use since then. It will crank and run and idle for as long as you want, now, but put it in gear and let off the clutch and it stumbles and stalls out.
Did I get it out of time ?, should I just put in fresh spark plugs? It has been 70-80 degrees in this part of Texas lately so don't think it is the "cold"
Will we going back up next week and need to work on it then,
your comments & suggestions are appreciated.
 

It should fill a pint jar in 2 to 3 minutes out of the carb drain, you may be getting enough fuel to idle but not rev up.
make sure you have the plug wires in the correct position. firing order is 1,2,4,3.

They will run on two but have no power. I have one that fouls number 1 plug and while it runs it has no power.

assume you seet the points to 0.025" when open and on lobe of dist cam.
 
" Did I get it out of time ?"

Did you loosen the distributor?

Regardless, you should always check the timing when you change the points.

But before you do that......

Run the fuel flow test & check the point gap as R Geiger suggested.

Then check spark with your adjustable gap plug checker.

Make sure the battery is fully charged.

Do you have a light to check the timing?
75 Tips
 
Thanks all for your help. Yes I did check the elbow filter, when i was putting the distributor cap back on I realized it was moving. I do have a timeing light, but it will be a search to find it and a helpful suggestions. "Adjustable gap checker"? Don't know what that is. Do have a spark plug Spark tester, you know that connects between the spark plug and the wiring harness. Is this the same?
Again thanks.
When in the country , there is no Wi-Fi out there, so I must take all the help with me.
 
(quoted from post at 19:27:07 03/22/17) Thanks all for your help. Yes I did check the elbow filter, when i was putting the distributor cap back on I realized it was moving. I do have a timeing light, but it will be a search to find it and a helpful suggestions. "Adjustable gap checker"? Don't know what that is. Do have a spark plug Spark tester, you know that connects between the spark plug and the wiring harness. Is this the same?
Again thanks.
When in the country , there is no Wi-Fi out there, so I must take all the help with me.
Click to expand...

No, a light isn't an adjustable gap spark checker . Try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Energy-Ignition-Spark-Tester/dp/B01DP6STUI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490236663&sr=8-1&keywords=adjustable+gap+ignition+spark+tester

If the distributor moved, it's out of time. Confirm the points gap at .025. Then you can get the static timing really close w/o a light.

Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.
 
(quoted from post at 22:49:51 03/22/17)
(quoted from post at 19:27:07 03/22/17) Thanks all for your help. Yes I did check the elbow filter, when i was putting the distributor cap back on I realized it was moving. I do have a timeing light, but it will be a search to find it and a helpful suggestions. "Adjustable gap checker"? Don't know what that is. Do have a spark plug Spark tester, you know that connects between the spark plug and the wiring harness. Is this the same?
Again thanks.
When in the country , there is no Wi-Fi out there, so I must take all the help with me.
Click to expand...

No, a light isn't an adjustable gap spark checker . Try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Energy-Ignition-Spark-Tester/dp/B01DP6STUI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490236663&sr=8-1&keywords=adjustable+gap+ignition+spark+tester

If the distributor moved, it's out of time. Confirm the points gap at .025. Then you can get the static timing really close w/o a light.

Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.
Click to expand...
Picture of an adjustable tester I just posted on another thread. ~$10

47005.jpg
 
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