starting a valve replacement

swhockett · Mar 22, 2017

This is what I found after removing the head. I got here after finding I had a broken camshaft gear and decided to go further since the hood was off. I can manually turn both the crank and camshaft. I've been told to soak the valves with carb cleaner before trying to remove as sleeves with be tough to remove. Any thoughts or tips?

R Geiger · Mar 22, 2017

Mission creep is setting in, the valve guides may require a bit of soaking if you can pry them down thru the intake exhasut ports you are good.

I don't like the looks of the valves in number 2 and 3. looks like you may have been burning a bit of oil.

Ken(Ark) · Mar 22, 2017

Removing and replacing is pretty straight forward . Oils / cleaners may help but if they do not move the first try you will probably wrestle with them for awhile .

With these old tractors you can do a perfect job or a quick refresh . They will run a long time with worn parts . Clean and wire wheel your parts then decide what is best for you . With that being said the valves must seal . When you reassemble pour a small amount of gasoline on top of a pair of closed valves .If it leaks past the valve then it is not sealed good enough .

If you are on a budget you can use a magic marker to color the valve face and seat . Lapping compound and a suction cup on a stick can be purchased at most part stores for very little money . Make sure you remove every spec of lapping compound before final assembly . Look for small pits in the exhaust valve face and seat . Intakes do not give many problems and do good with a good cleaning and lapping .

Of course a profession valve job is the best answer but sometimes that is not feasible .

swhockett · Mar 23, 2017

Thanks for advice. I was concerned about rusted appearance of exhaust valves. When I removed the plugs the #4 was brownish in appearance.

Ken(Ark) · Mar 23, 2017

(quoted from post at 08:39:36 03/23/17)
Thanks for advice. I was concerned about rusted appearance of exhaust valves. When I removed the plugs the #4 was brownish in appearance.

Did you have to add antifreeze regularly ? #4 looks a lot cleaner than the other 3 cylinders . It does not look like it was a major leak but a seap .

You may be better off to replace the cam gear and head gasket and put her back to work for a couple years . All of the parts are probably worn and could be replaced but still have a lot of usable life . Of course that's half of the fun with these old tractors .

swhockett · Mar 23, 2017

i did not have to add antifreeze so I don't think there were any major leaks. It has sat for 2 years after failing to start(cam I'm assuming) I didn't do a compression test before getting this deep. Wish I had.

swhockett · Mar 25, 2017

i got two sleeves removed. The others are solid. I'm trying to soak them alternating between carb and choke cleaner and diesel fuel. If they have to be cut, what tool is used to cut springs and valve stem? Found I have at least one tappet sticking.

starting a valve replacement

swhockett

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Ken(Ark)

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swhockett

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Ken(Ark)

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swhockett

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swhockett

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