Oil Pan leak

Joe's 8N

New User
Hi All,
I have a '52 Ford 8n. There is a hole in the oil pan that has a cotter key in it where oil is leaking out. I am thinking this might be the trans/lift oil as the gears don't work good and scrub when trying to put the tractor in gear. Any input or thoughts on this. The oil is leaking out pretty steadily.

Thanks in advance.

Joe
 
(quoted from post at 23:23:28 03/21/17) Yup, That'll be your front transmission seal or bearings.

Is that a major repair or is it common due to age. The cotter key is just loose hanging there and the oil is dripping off it.
 

i can't tell u how major it is, but that's what the cotter pin should be doing. its job is to bounce around in that hole, thereby keeping the hole from plugging up. u don't want it filling with oil [i:be4bbb858d]above[/i:be4bbb858d] that cotter pin ;)
 
Nosed mine down in a ditch yrs ago to keep from draining hyd oil Didnt know
front trans seal was bad--soaked the clutch-oil drained from the cotter pin
hole for dayss--soon as it got wet I had grinding gears-had to split and
replace clutch, pplate throwout brg and front trans seal..
 

Joe, as you are being told, you need to split the tractor and renew the trans input seal. While you are in there you will also renew your clutch and your release bearing. It is a job that looks a lot worse than it is. It is very straight forward. you need to just read up about it in your shop manual, and if you need help it is minutes away here. Most of us here block the front and roll the rear away. A few years ago a member came upon and shared a slick method of supporting the rear that you won't find in your manual. You pick up a trailer jack, you remove the left running board and the round disc behind it. You lean the jack against the side of the tractor by the hole. You design/ build or get fabricated a bracket to attach the jack to three of the bolt holes. Your rear section will then be on three very stable wheels.
 
As others have said, the cotter key is there for a reason: see tip # 51.

The "gears don't work good" is probably do to a worn or out of adjustment clutch.


Splitting the tractor & replacing the clutch is covered nicely in the I&T FO4 manual. (see tip # 39)

See tips 12 & 59 before you split it.

Check the ring gear & replace it if need be.

Have the flywheel resurfaced.

I'd have the clutch & p/p rebuilt. And I'd replace the t/o & pilot bearings & front transmission seal while I was in there.

Use the main shaft as your clutch alignment tool.

If you don't have a local rebuild shop, try these guys:

Automotive Manufacturers Inc

2400 N Lombardy St Richmond, VA 23220

(804) 321-6861

They do mail order work. They rebuild carbs, clutches, pressure plates, water pumps, alternators, generators, starters & reline brakes.

If you prefer new parts, do NOT order them off of eBay or buy them at TSC. Get parts (and the manuals) from this site or nnalert's.
75 Tips
 
If you get into putting a clutch disc into it, you might find your new disc has more metallic particles in it
than in the past. This might cause it to stick to the flywheel when sitting for a prolonged time. You then have
basically two options. One is to block the clutch open so it does not freeze to the flywheel and the other is to
get a kevlar clutch disc. Kevlar will not freeze to the flywheel, however Kevlar is far less forgiving of oil
leaks.
 
yup.. replace input shaft seal, maybee rear main, and clutch, TOB, PB.. etc.

wet clutches can be grabby and sticky/slow to release... and that's likely the scrub you hear.
 
as the gears don't work good and scrub when trying to put the tractor in gear.

Joe

These tractors do not have synchronizer's and will grind going into any gear . They need to be shifted into gear while the tractor is stopped and the rpm is low . If you want fourth gear you start in fourth gear . You can do otherwise but will wear the coupler / teeth .
 

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