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Show Parts for Model:

Update ON Separating Rim and Center on a NAA

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03-19-2017 22:58:16

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Tim Ploughman Daly, Tall T, Jim in MA, soundguy, NoNewPqarts, ,ASEguy, Ken(Ark). Ultradog MN, Kirk-NJ Dean
Thank you for great suggestions. As you recall this tractor was used to spread salt on a church parking lot and for mowing etc. I reported on how the left wheel work went earlier.
This week worked on the right wheel assembly. It was badly rusted. To remove the nuts, I first worked them over with a 24 oz hammer add a one inch bar about 12 inches long. Hit the nuts about 20 good blows and then put penetrating on them. Let them set for a day and went through the same process about four times. Nuts would not budge even with my impact wrench. Took a medium propane torch and heated each nut for 5 minutes with the flame pointed so that I did not heat the rim too munch. After this treatment was able to get all 6 off without breaking the bolts. I used a small impact wrench that generates about 250 ft#s because I did not want to break anything.
To get the bolts out of the rims I did the following. First I ,hit the bolt head 20 good wacks with my 24 oz hammer and the one inch bar. Tried to hit the head from all different angles. Next screwed the nut on so the treads were just short of the end on the nut. Hit the nut about 20 times from all angles with the same setup. Added penetrant, then tried to knock the bolt out. It took 5 applications and the bolt was out. Did the same thing with the other 5 bolts.
What was done is probably standard practice. But I wanted to share it in case it might help another first timer like me.
Everything is apart so now I can start the cleaning process.
Once again thank you for your excellent suggestions and hand holding.

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03-20-2017 23:10:53

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 Re: Update ON Separating Rim and Center on a NAA in reply to Farmerhr, 03-19-2017 22:58:16  
Thank you for the replies. Your help is always appreciated.
Will try your suggestions when this situation comes up again. Was really surprised how badly the bolts were corroded. They were 5/8 bolts and measured about 0.450 in some places. Certainly need to be replaced.
Thanks Again

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03-21-2017 07:30:08

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 Re: Update ON Separating Rim and Center on a NAA in reply to Farmerhr, 03-20-2017 23:10:53  
when the bolts look worn, I don't worry about trying to save them.. that's when the big air gun comes out. twisting the head or nut off a rusty 5/8 bolt is within it's capability, and it gets used for that on occasion.

have a great one.

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03-20-2017 09:51:10

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 Re: Update ON Separating Rim and Center on a NAA in reply to Farmerhr, 03-19-2017 22:58:16  
I soak the nuts with PB Blaster overnight. Then I position the wheel with the nut at the 3 or 4 o'clock position. I use a 18" breaker bar with a 3' or longer length of pipe slipped over the handle. I then stand on the pipe/handle and bounce a little until I hear/feel the nut break loose. Then I use an air-impact wrench. Works every time.

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03-20-2017 14:44:53

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 Re: Update ON Separating Rim and Center on a NAA in reply to gwoc, 03-20-2017 09:51:10  
Ditto on 3/4 or 1" socket set and impact gun. If you have a 60g air comp, you can run either. Watch the prices, hf will have their 3/4 & 1" guns on special coupon now and then.

On hard to remove rusty rim bolts like that I usually just grab the 1" gun turn up the air, twist the he's off, then knock out the shank, putting new bolts back in, saving the heat, beat and oil. ;)

But for sure have BTDT on the heat n beat.

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Ultradog MN

03-20-2017 03:57:08

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 Re: Update ON Separating Rim and Center on a NAA in reply to Farmerhr, 03-19-2017 22:58:16  
Thanks for the update. A lot of guys never give updates so we never know if our advice worked or not.
A couple of suggestions - both of which involve spending your money :(
Get yourself a cheap 3/4" drive socket set from Harbor Fright or somesuch.
They will put MUCH more torque to a bolt than your average 1/2" impact driver. I have a cheap China Maid set and have found it invaluable for working on my tractor.
Second, I think an average propane torch is basically worthless for heating stuck tractor parts. If you can't justify owning an Oxy/Acetylene rig at least buy a bottle of Mapp gas for your propane torch. Mapp gas is a mix of propane and acetylene and gets much hotter.
Comes in a yellow bottle/cylinder and screws onto your propane torch head with no adaptation required.
Lastly, be careful when using heat or welding on rims when the tire is still on.
Check youtube for a couple of very frightening videos where the tire blows up from welding on the rim. Maybe someone has a link to post for you.
Hard to do on this phone.
Meanwhile, good luck on getting this project completed.

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