Turning off the Fuel on a 2N

Hello all,

We just go our 1946 Ford 2n running after several months of work! I was reading in some of your posts about the importance of turning off the fuel when I'm through using the tractor.

I see that circular shutoff valve right beneath the fuel tank and is right above the sediment bowl.

I tried turning the circular shut valve Clockwise to turn the fuel off. I kept turning it around and around! It never seemed to stop so I thought something was wrong (maybe it needs to be turned Counter Clockwise instead to shut off?) and I stopped turning it.

My questions:
Is clockwise the correct direction to turn off the fuel?

Should the cutoff valve turn so much in order to turn the fuel off? Will it eventually stop if I keep turning it clockwise?

Once it is turned off all the way, how much do I need to turn it counter-clockwise to turn the fuel on?

I am including a picture from a previous post showing what I am turning. Any help would be appreciated!

(reply to post at 15:22:42 03/19/17)

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Credit to the picture's owner.

You're correct, clockwise should shut the fuel off. If it's not broken then it should stop. You don't have to tighten it very tight. It has a standpipe
that will not let the tank empty completely if you only open it a turn or so. If you open it more than that, then you can empty the tank all the way.
This feature gives you a little reserve so that you don't run out of gas way out in a field.
If you don't shut your fuel off, then some day your float won't close completely, and you have gas all over the floor.

Jerry

when turning clockwise it should stop after IIRC 3 or 4 turns.Yours is probably stripped. when turning on CCW 1 1/2 turns is open, all of the way open is your reserve

(quoted from post at 19:43:01 03/19/17) when turning clockwise it should stop after IIRC 3 or 4 turns.Yours is probably stripped. when turning on CCW 1 1/2 turns is open, all of the way open is your reserve

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in my recollection, a sediment bowl valve from full open to full closed is a lot more than 3 or 4 turns. i wonder if they vary from source to source/

sammi.......yer glass filter wheel is the same righty-tighty, lefty-loosey scheme yer familar with. Caution, yer glass filter wheel hazz a SQUARE drive scheme held on by an 8-32 screw. BIG TIP: lock-tite the screw so yer glass wheel don't cumm off. 2nd tip: two-turns, ennythang more sucks the scumm and water outta bottom of the tank. Me? I recommend keeping at least 5-gals of gas in the 10-gal tank and ALWAYS turn the tank OFF when thru runnin' fer the day. 3rd tip: yer gastank has a dome breather at the front top of the tank that the mud-daubbers like to fill up that you can't gitt-too. Surprizingly enuff, that creates a VACUUM and eventually the vacuum will stop yer carbie from runnin'. Recommend you gitt a breathing gas cap fer a 600-series Ford tractor to solve the vacuum problem. In the meantime, just un-screw yer regular gas cap to relieve the VACUUM. Simple, eh?.......the amazed Dell

(reply to post at 16:58:51 03/19/17)

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Great advice - thanks to everyone! Is this shutoff valve hard to replace (just in case its stripped)? I am going to try everything that was mentioned tomorrow. Dell - there are dirt daubers right where you said - I will clean all that up and get a breathing gas cap.

Thanks

very easy to replace. u take the fuel line off, and then unscrew the assembly from the tank. your biggest concern will be any remaining gas in the tank if your reserve pickup is plugged.

The entire sediment bowl assembly is about $12 here, plus shipping. If you want to try & fix your bowl, try the following:


1. Get out all the carb cleaning tools.

2. Pull it down (bowl off, screen out, stem out)

3. Look at the stem; if it really is OEM, it will have graphite packing, just like a faucet. Get some from the hardware store (NOT teflon!) If it?s a newer replacement OEM bowl, it will have O-rings. Same deal; hardware store for replacements

4. Your call on soaking it in carb cleaner; I didn?t, because I use the real caustic stuff and the metal looks like aluminum. So, I sprayed it out w/ canned cleaner.

5. Make sure you get air through both the main and reserve ports.

6. Use your welding tip cleaners if need be, but I?ve never had one clog bad enough that canned cleaner & air wouldn?t open ?em up.

7. The nut that holds the stem in keeps it from leaking. You need to find the happy medium of ?to tight? (the knob won?t turn) or ?to loose? (it leaks.

8. Replace the screen and gasket; NO sealer on the gasket. If it?s a cork gasket, soak it in gas first.

9. Use pipe dope as a thread sealer when you put it back in the tank.

10. Put the bowl back on & hand tighten the thumb screw. Turn the gas on & look at the bowl. If it starts to fill the bowl, turn the gas off & start over; it has a leak. You will know it's sealed when gas does not flow into the bowl w/ the engine off. It won't fill with the bowl securely on because the float has closed the needle valve in the carb and there is nowhere for the air in the bowl to escape. (assuming the carb bowl is full) When the engine is started the needle valve will open and the trapped air will escape through the carb vent. If you loosen the bowl, it will fill.....and leak.

Most leaks on a new gasket are caused by:

1. An incorrectly seated gasket.

2. An incorrectly seated screen.

3. A screen just slightly too big . (get out the scissors)

4. Using gasket sealer

5. Incorrect assembly of the screen/gasket
75 Tips

Sam-
The valve stem knob is knurled, has the label "MAIN and RESERVE" with arrows to indicate OPEN -as stated -clockwise to tighten/close. The fuel sediment bowl assembly has a separate piece called the valve stem assembly. This piece uses rubber gaskets/sleeves and often they will wear out from usage as shown. They get chewed up and thus will leak eventually. The valve stem can be purchased by itself and usually about 5-7 bucks. Some cheaper units sold today have vinyl gaskets and those will get eaten by gas quickly. The valve stem knob is secured on with an 8-32 screw. Many times while running tractor in the field this screw will undo itself and the knob falls off. I learned a long time ago to put a dab of Loctite Thread Sealant on it when I install one to prevent that. The sediment bowl assembly is made of Pewter and has a straight pipe thread, not an NPT (tapered pipe thread) for the fuel line and valve stem. It is easy to strip out so always use your fingers to thread into the assembly and use the 7/16" flare nut wrench for final tightening. Never force it. Use the correct fuel steel fuel line -sold today pre-bent exactly and with correct threads and compression fittings. Do not use rubber, copper, nylon, plastic, or any other type line for fuel. Also get yourself copies of the I&T F-04 manual and the FORD 39-53 Master4 Parts Catalog, and Operator's Manual.



Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

Samm.

Are you sure it isn't just the knob spinning on the shaft?

Not sure how that could be but maybe it isn't the correct knob/wheel.

Have you removed the Knob and turned the shaft without the knob?