Liner removal tool

Does anyone have the liner removal tool. I can make everything to do it with but I don't have the big stepped plug that goes in the bottom of the liner to pull it with. My cylinders are .030 and if I am going to buy new rings I may was well just go back with new pistons and liners.
 
Skip........make a "spool" with 2-pieces of wood and 12-in of 1/2-in threaded rod and nuts to match. Put the spool in the sleeve and fill with chipped DRY-ICE. The -100* will SHRINK yer sleeve and you kenn pull the sleeve out the top. Simple, eh? You kenn gitt the DRY-ICE at the grocery store, they just throw it away usually. ...or... you kenn look'em up in the yellow pages too. Use the same dry-ice trick to re-install yer new sleeves. This beats hammering and other tricks. It should be obvious, wear GLOVES. .......HTH, the COLD Dell
 
(quoted from post at 23:15:34 03/18/17) Does anyone have the liner removal tool. I can make everything to do it with but I don't have the big stepped plug that goes in the bottom of the liner to pull it with. My cylinders are .030 and if I am going to buy new rings I may was well just go back with new pistons and liners.

You don't use the "big stepped plug" to remove the sleeves. It is used to install them. They can be driven out with a suitablly sized bushing driver type tool (shown below)

That said .030 is a LOT oversize and if those are .040 wall sleeves there isn't anything left :?:

TOH

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I never thought of shrinking them to get them out that will work I have used dry ice and alcohol to shrink things to install them. I1l turn them out today thanks
 
I looked at those seal drivers on e bay and nothing was big enough they only go up to 3.180 so I went out to the metal rack behind the shop and dug around and found a 4 inch piece of aluminum round stock I didn't think I had. I will just get on the lathe and turn me a driver out of 6061, fill the liner with dry ice and knock it out.
 
(quoted from post at 16:38:07 03/19/17) I looked at those seal drivers on e bay and nothing was big enough they only go up to 3.180 so I went out to the metal rack behind the shop and dug around and found a 4 inch piece of aluminum round stock I didn't think I had. I will just get on the lathe and turn me a driver out of 6061, fill the liner with dry ice and knock it out.

The diameters I use for the "puck" are 3.186/3.265. That isn't much of a shoulder, aluminum is quite soft, and the bevel on the bottom of the sleeve makes a pretty good chisel. Be alert for any sign of the shoulder on the "puck" getting peeled back by the sharp edge on the sleeve. If the "peel" wedges between the OD of the puck and the block bore you can easily split the water jacket.....

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 18:09:32 03/19/17)
(quoted from post at 16:38:07 03/19/17) I looked at those seal drivers on e bay and nothing was big enough they only go up to 3.180 so I went out to the metal rack behind the shop and dug around and found a 4 inch piece of aluminum round stock I didn't think I had. I will just get on the lathe and turn me a driver out of 6061, fill the liner with dry ice and knock it out.

The diameters I use for the "puck" are 3.186/3.265. That isn't much of a shoulder, aluminum is quite soft, and the bevel on the bottom of the sleeve makes a pretty good chisel. Be alert for any sign of the shoulder on the "puck" getting peeled back by the sharp edge on the sleeve. If the "peel" wedges between the OD of the puck and the block bore you can easily split the water jacket.....

TOH

My brain is toast - I forgot you said you had .090 wall sleeves. The larger diameter on the puck would be 3.365 but you still need to be alert for any sign the aluminum shoulder is mushrooming and wedging the puck.

TOH
 
You know I was sitting in the shop drinking a cold one this afternoon and I was thinking. I can turn the block upside down and fill the holes with dry ice then put it in my hydraulic press and block it up on 4X4 wooden blocks and push against the puck and push them out from the bottom. That way no banging or hammering and I can watch what it is doing as it comes out.
 
(quoted from post at 17:33:16 03/21/17) You know I was sitting in the shop drinking a cold one this afternoon and I was thinking. I can turn the block upside down and fill the holes with dry ice then put it in my hydraulic press and block it up on 4X4 wooden blocks and push against the puck and push them out from the bottom. That way no banging or hammering and I can watch what it is doing as it comes out.

I would opt for the press but a hammer works fine. Either way I wouldn't waste my time or money on CO2. Aside from the fact it's not needed ask yourself what happens to the bore in the block as you ice those sleeves.....

TOH
 
If the "peel" wedges between the OD of the puck and the block bore you can easily split the water jacket.....

TOH

Just adding to the post , if a person had access to a press that would be smoother . Dry ice is not really needed but if s man just wants to have fun that's a good enough reason . If I were using an aluminum puck and a press , I would press the sleeve out 1/2" back up , inspect the puck and turn it over using the side that is flat to finish removing the sleeve . There is no real sideways pressure so the bore in the block will keep it aligned with less chance of damage . You can install the sleeves with a flat plate much larger than the sleeve .
 

my .090s popped right out with the puck, and the new ones, which had spent the night in the freezer, dropped right in. just as when they were forced to eat brave Sir Robin's minstrels, there was much rejoicing.
 

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