NAA one arm loader bracket

Yudt06

Member
This message is a reply to an archived post by soundguy on January 26, 2015 at 11:59:25.
The original subject was "Re: NAA one arm loader bracket".

Hey soundguy

Looks like it's been a while since anyone has been talking about the hip mounting bracket for a NAA. I need to buy or fab one. Sounds like you are the guy that can help me.

Any help from your is much appreciated. Email me if you can help please.

Thanks
Ryan
 
Not Soundguy but here is the page from the manual. The manual is for the 722 so with the 711 some of the brackets aren't needed. Some of the brackets are the same as the later utility model brackets. It's the trans plate mount bracket, similar to the, if not the same, 8n trans mount steering box plate bracket. The trans hip mount bracket is also different. Could you adapt the hip mount off a later hundred series tractor? Possibly. I have ones for the 9n,8n hundred series utility and row crop for both long box and short box, but haven't found or put together one for the NAA (yet).
Since Soundguy's is mounted to the NAA tractor it would be hard to give you at measurements.

Kirk
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At one time I had templated these brackets onto cardboard and would draw them off on brown construction paper and send them out. I will have to see if my cardboard templates are still floating around. It's been a few years since I sent one out.

That said.. for the NAA, it isn't all that hard. Here is a good way to go about it, even with no template.

first. unbolt your steering box and lift it up about an 1/4 of a inch.

now.. get some cardboard and slip it under the steering box, set it back down. mark your holes and draw around it to locate it.

have your cardboard setup so that it extends out over the shoulder of the bellhousing. The hundred and later series are squared off here.

Look at the Diagram Kirk provided. You will see a bolt hole that the tranny hip bracket 'stands' on. get more cardboard and a dowel or bolt out. slip int he hols, and tape cardboard to that bolt or dowel, and extend it up to the intersection of the plate from under your steering box.

again refer to the drawing kirk posted. the upright hip bracket has a thru bolt hole at the bottom, and at the top it has a lip on the back side. that lip is where it bolts to the plate from under the box.

it will be real easy to torch out some 1/4" plate from your under steering box cardboard template, same with your upright template, using 1/2". weld on the tab in the back and torch or drill holes.

the nub that goes into the loader bracket can be a shourt piece of thick wall pipe or old hyd rod even. thick wall pipe is easier, as you will need to cross drill it for a retainer pin ( original ) or bolt.

Once those 2 parts are fabbed, the rest is gravy. the bottom of the loader has a 'toe' that will use some small 3/8" strap with holes on the ends to connect the toe to the underside of the transmission. due to the minor diferences in the loaders and mounting height, you might need some spacers at the toe strap, cut to fit as needed.

lastly, the front hanger is easy to torch out of 1/2" plate and torch the big mounting hole and drill or plasma cut the mounting bolts.

Thus, you you have a torch or plasma cutter, or drill and a welder.. you can make this in a couple hours.

I helped a guy make a set of these using a plasma cutter at my day jobs shop a few years ago. He used a curved part of a big mower blade as the upright, and the mounting hole for the bolt was the perfect location to slip a pipe in and weld up for the mounting nub. He then welded a pipe on the bottom as the thru hole for the bolt.

As far as I know, that ho-made bracket was still working.

ps.. you can use either the 3.5 or 5.5" box, if you adjust your hip bracket and toe bracket accordingly.
 
Kirk

Thanks so much for this information. Sounds like I definitely need to go about fabbing the brackets!!!! I'm sure I'll be reaching out to you and soundguy for advice along the way. Now to find a remote valve for my NAA. Let me know if you or anyone has one for sale ;) ha.

Ryan
 
Thanks so much for taking the time out to respond with this information. People like you and Kirk are why the tractor community is awesome. Definitely going to fab my brackets for my loader and all this information will help! Hope you don't mind but I'm sure I'll have lots of questions and will need advice along the way!

Also, do you have or know if anyone selling a remote valve for an NAA. I definitely want to go about that way to power the cylinder.

Thanks

Ryan
 
The naa valves come up time to time. Also, you can remove that small cover and basically drill and tap on it a bit to install a plug and a port, and then run Hyds from down on the side of the hyd section, go to a cheap open center valve, then into the added port. It lets you use a cheap 75$ valve and some fittings n hose if you can't find a naa valve. The work can be done with a drill and tap, it you can beg a skilled machinist into doing it like some of us have ;)
 
I'll keep my eyes peeled for a remote cover. Good to know I can fab something if one doesn't come up! Have you done it the way you mentioned. If so any pics ?

Thanks
 
Yes, mine is plumbed with a 75$ cheap open center valve I have bolted to the fender.

There is a plug on the side of the hyd casting, inverted pipe plug I think, anyway, that plug is in the path of high pressure oil after the relief valve, Normally that plug is left in, and oil travels up the side of the casting thru a port till it enters the top cover, then into a port on the small option cover, then goes back down into the top cover to the hyds mechanism.

What you do is pull that small cover, find the oil 'in' port on it on the underside of the small cover, tap that port for a pipe plug, like one of those inverted hex ones. install the plug from the underside. next, you find a place in the galley on the top side of the cover that is past that plug, and drill and tap for a hyd fitting.

I do have a couple pictures.

In the picture of the option cover with the port installed. that's the galley that also gets the plug, on the underside above the oil port on the tractor. IE.. the plug is on one side of the galley, and the port on the other.

The picture of the lower side of the tractor shows the port with the plug you remove to get hyd pressure. if you look close you can see the hyd manifold pipes on the underside of the tractor ( from the pump ).

A machinist did mine.

What that gets you, is that since the oil can't flow past the plug into the hyds, it must instead travel thru the hose you add coming out the side of the hyd casting, go thru your open center valve, then return to the top of the small cover, basically just bypassing that small plug. your open center valve is essentially invisible to the system when it's work ports are not active.. thus the 3pt works normally. You do want to choose a valve that can handle downstream presure ( like a PB capable valve ), because the 3pt lift is downstream from your hyd valve. It's not hard to find these valves, nor expensive.


If you ever remove the valve, you must do one of 2 things, either loop your hose to the fitting in the cover, or remove that cover, remove that plug, and then add a plug to where the port was installed. eaither way returns it to normal path of operation.
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Go back about page 8 or so and click on MarkCT. I sold him an NAA valve last year but he was going to go another way with his project. He was putting the valve up for sale. Don't know if he sold it but worth a shot.

Kirk
 

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