Cylinder head

Ian Kernot

New User
I have ordered a new cylinder head for 1948 8N
Could anyone help with torque specs as my ford manual only has general hints.

Thank you
 
" my ford manual "

That's why the I&T FO4 manual is nice to have; see tip # 39.

Bolts or studs?
492ca6cc-1275-4ab7-93fb-b6f01521c40c_zpsrr2ztxxz.jpg

75 Tips
 

Bruce and I must have been typing at the same time. Hey, would one of you guys learn me how to put a link in a message and change the text? like "Link", or "head torque". I can't seem to figure that out. :)
 
The torque values in the pic are for bolts. Tighten in 3 steps.

But before you start, there are no blind holes in the block, so clean them all out. Then clean them good with brake cleaner and use Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant to seal the threads.

I use Coppercoat on the gasket, but some gaskets will say 'no sealer'.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 14:59:50 03/13/17) The torque values in the pic are for bolts. Tighten in 3 steps.

But before you start, there are no blind holes in the block, so clean them all out. Then clean them good with brake cleaner and use Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant to seal the threads.

I use Coppercoat on the gasket, but some gaskets will say 'no sealer'.
75 Tips

As Bruce mentioned , clean out your bolt holes . The rear corner by the exhaust commonly fills with hard mineral deposits and can split the block open from the force of a bolt being torqued down if it bottoms out .
 
(quoted from post at 15:42:33 03/13/17)
Bruce and I must have been typing at the same time. Hey, would one of you guys learn me how to put a link in a message and change the text? like "Link", or "head torque". I can't seem to figure that out. :)

first put the text u want readers to see in the post. now highlight it, and then click the button that says [u:19edd749fe]URL[/u:19edd749fe] up above.

this will give u something like this:

[code:1:19edd749fe][url]head torque specs[/url][/code:1:19edd749fe]

now, what u need to do is add an equal sign immediately after the first url, still inside the ], and then paste or type the url u want to link to immediately after the =

for example, this is what bruce's tip link looks like:

[code:1:19edd749fe][url=http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/articles/artint268.htm]75 Tips[/url][/code:1:19edd749fe]

if you're every wondering "how did they do that in a post?" u can click the "quote" button in that post and u can then have a look at how the thing you're wondering about is done :)
 

ps: url = Uniform Resource Locator, which is what links are. se habla geekspeak aqui.
 
(quoted from post at 15:59:50 03/13/17) But before you start, there are no blind holes in the block, so clean them all out. Then clean them good with brake cleaner and use Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant to seal the threads. 75 Tips

I have the torque specs but in trying to chase the threads with a tap I get two or three turns and the tap wants to jam in the hole. I tried three holes and they're all the same. I'm being a little cautious here but wondering if it's old sealer that's causing the binding and I just need to use some muscle or if it's something else and what that might be ??
I've done lots of automotive heads and total rebuilds and never ran into a problem like this.
 
I have the torque specs but in trying to chase the threads with a tap I get two or three turns and the tap wants to jam in the hole. I tried three holes and they're all the same. I'm being a little cautious here but wondering if it's old sealer that's causing the binding and I just need to use some muscle or if it's something else and what that might be ??
I've done lots of automotive heads and total rebuilds and never ran into a problem like this.

Standard taps are long and tapered that start slowly cutting new threads . Bottom taps are more blunt and start cutting full width threads quickly . You may want to use a small drill bit (1/8") and probe any that have a bottom .

Usually you turn a tap in until it builds up a little resistance then back off a quarter turn , give it half a turn , back off a quarter , and repeat . spray lube and or compressed air may help .
 
I don't have any bottoming taps and I've done some tapping from just a drilled hole so I'm used to cut, back up, clean, cut more, ... repeat. I've just never had a tap jam up this solid in an already tapped hole I'm just trying to chase.

I haven't tried to squirt any oil in there and now I'm thinking I might even hit it with some PB and let it sit a day to see if that loosens up anything. The bolts came out ok.

I've moved on to trying to figure out what to do with the tank. For now I've managed to shake out almost a cubic foot of crap and I'm thinking of just adding some pea gravel and shaking the crap out of it to get the loose stuff and get the thing running so I can see if there is anything else (clutch, trans, Hyd) that's going to bite me in the rear. If everything else seems fairly good then I can plan on a new tank in the near future.

Steep learning curve on my first tractor. :cry:
 
Kiss4afrog, I wouldn't use that tank, not even for testing.
Use a temporary setup. Lawnmower tank with a shutoff, etc.
JMOR has the best one I've seen for comic value, but there
are literally hundreds of ways to do it.
I can't seem to find a simple picture of mine right now but
[b:69796c19d2]here's[/b:69796c19d2] a video I made literally using a peanut butter jar.
 
(quoted from post at 17:47:12 03/13/17)
(quoted from post at 15:42:33 03/13/17)
Bruce and I must have been typing at the same time. Hey, would one of you guys learn me how to put a link in a message and change the text? like "Link", or "head torque". I can't seem to figure that out. :)

first put the text u want readers to see in the post. now highlight it, and then click the button that says [u:59de366cc6]URL[/u:59de366cc6] up above.

this will give u something like this:

[code:1:59de366cc6][url]head torque specs[/url][/code:1:59de366cc6]

now, what u need to do is add an equal sign immediately after the first url, still inside the ], and then paste or type the url u want to link to immediately after the =

for example, this is what bruce's tip link looks like:

[code:1:59de366cc6][url=http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/articles/artint268.htm]75 Tips[/url][/code:1:59de366cc6]

if you're every wondering "how did they do that in a post?" u can click the "quote" button in that post and u can then have a look at how the thing you're wondering about is done :)

Ah! I see. Thanks, HFJ. I knew enough to use the "Quote", and take a look at it, but it kind of looked like early Babylonian to me. :)
 
This is the 2-3" layer of crud I scooped out with a coat hanger and shaking it like a crying baby :shock:

I just need to break down and order one.
46634.jpg
 

Good Grief !! Never seen a tank with that much crud in it. Amazing. Worst episode with a gas tank I ever had was right after I bought our '51 chevy pickup. The tank is behind the seat on those things. Went to shove the seat back while going down the road, jammed a trenching shovel through the rusty tank, and had a tidal wave of mid-grade come washing over my feet. We were not amused.
 
"I just need to break down and order one"

I have a used one if you want to save some money.

Ian Kernot, sorry, we kind of hi-jacked your thread. :oops:
 
I agree (about hijacking) but I'm still hoping to have some input on what my chasing the holes in the block might be. Tomorrow I'm going to try and get a hold of the thread kit from Oreilly and see if that makes any difference in cleaning out those threads.

Having problems chasing the threads still relates to the topic as I feel it's an important part of doing the job correctly.
 
"Having problems chasing the threads still relates to the topic as I feel it's an important part of doing the job correctly."

Certainly is!
 
(quoted from post at 17:02:45 03/14/17) "I just need to break down and order one"

I have a used one if you want to save some money.

Ian Kernot, sorry, we kind of hi-jacked your thread. :oops:

That's OK learning that I am not the only one with tractor issues :D
 
(quoted from post at 08:21:27 03/15/17) I agree (about hijacking) but I'm still hoping to have some input on what my chasing the holes in the block might be. Tomorrow I'm going to try and get a hold of the thread kit from Oreilly and see if that makes any difference in cleaning out those threads.

Having problems chasing the threads still relates to the topic as I feel it's an important part of doing the job correctly.

GOOGLE

HOMEMADE THREAD CHASER

DIY THREAD CHASER

They work as good as any expensive ones I have brought.

Most of the time I use a old emergency brake cable to clean the holes. They have a plastic liner on the out side grind a little off beat the end so it flairs out chuck it in a drill life will be good.



hole%20cleaner%20001_zpszocaebwx.jpg
 
Found out it's the tap in the cheap Menards set I bought. I'll be returning that.

Went to Oreillys and got the thread restoration loaner kit and the 7/16-14 in their set did a slick job of cleaning up those threads.

Glad I didn't try to force my tap in there as I'd likely have to helicoil any I did force. One step closer to putting the head back on.
 

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