so now I got this problem

jsh27896

New User
Before switching out my starter and solenoid, it would click when I hit the button. I've put all the wires back on like I thought they came off, battery cable and switch on one post, the wire that was on the small post on top. I'm getting nothing now. I even put the old solenoid back on thinking the new one was bad. Is there a wire I've forgotten about? Does it matter which side of the cable the switch wire is on? I've tried both ways and nothing. All the connections seem tight. Any ideas for an obvious rookie who's major mechanical achievement is actually being able to change that starter? Trying to keep from getting a friend over here to diagnose it. I've bought a circuit tester.
 
jsh........the little middle post of yer starter solenoid should face the engine block where it is hard to gitt too. That little middle post connects to the BIG starter button by yer tranny shifter. Caution; climbing over yer tranny you kenn kick and BREAK the wire to yer tranny shifter. Surprizingly enuff, solenoids are rather robust and seldom go bad. BIGGEST problem is the starter motor itself, them 8-in screws don't really make a good ground. Recommend you remove yer 8-in screws and slide the starter out about 1/2-in and SANDPAPER both sides of the gap fer a better ground. Now re-screw yer 8-in screws and hooker up. When starting, allow 2-rummpas before a QUICK pull on yer spring loaded choke. Should start rite up UNLESS you've flooded yer sparkies. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. Don't throw yer sparkies away, just clean'n'dry 'em one-atta-time in HOT running engine and save'um fer the NEXT time. (and there will be a next time........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Did you check the battery first to see if it had a sufficient charge? A poor/weak battery will get you a weak starter/solenoid clicking and no turnover. Do you have copies of the original 8N Operators Manual -assuming you have an 8N, better yet a copy of the I&T F-04 Manual? Get one if not already part of your everyday Bible study. Rookie mistake #1 is to start replacing parts without first determining the true root cause of the issue. Original electrical systems were 6 volt/positive ground set ups. You have what? Starters don't care if 6 or 12 volt but get a copy of the correct wiring diagram -Google JMOR's Wiring Pictograms. Just going by whatever was wired when you started doesn't mean it was correct to begin with. Never trust a previous owners work, unless by a select handful of knowledgeable gurus.

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Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
" Rookie mistake #1 is to start replacing parts without first determining the true root cause of the issue. "

I think Tim found the source of your problem. Did you replace the starter and solenoid without confirming that both were bad?

There are two schools of thought when it comes to getting a non-running tractor to start. One way is to just start replacing every part you can get to until it starts or you run out of money. The other way is to take a step-by-step approach to solving the problem, working from most likely to least likely. The trick to fixing these tractors (or trouble shooting any piece of equipment) is to be systematic about it. You need to isolate the problem step by step and work from most likely to least likely.

Add another wiring diagram to your collection: Google "wiring diagrams JMOR". These are 'pictographs'.

The solenoid was making a noise because of low voltage. That is likely caused by:

1. A weak battery (charge it & check it per tip # 49. Or get it load tested.)*

2. Dirty grounds/connections (remove the cables & clean the connections)

3. Bad cables or incorrect sized cables (replace them - see tip # 41)**

4. Bad ground between the starter & the block. (pull the starter away from the block & clean the mating area - see tip # 36)


* No matter what else you do, the battery must be fully charged. A float charger is helpful; not a trickle charger, but a float charger. (I use Battery Tenders on all my tractors) If you need to jump it, see tip # 43.

** You can't see corrosion under the insulation.
75 Tips
 
I'm no expert by any means, but I went through a similar problem with my 54 Ford truck: turn the key and it would only click. I don't work with this stuff often
enough to remember every thing exactly, so, I got mixed up. I thought the click meant the solenoid was bad, when in fact for me it was a dead battery. The battery
was so dead it couldn't start the truck even after fully charging the dead battery to 100 percent AND using the jump start feature on the battery charger. I put a
new solenoid on and it still didn't start with the old dead battery charged and using the jump start feature. Bought a new battery and problem solved. Months later,
same thing with another vehicle: wouldn't start after charging and using jump start of charger. New battery and now it starts. I never realized that if the battery
was so dead you still could not start the vehicle with a jump. It's since happened a couple more times to other vehicles.
 
" I never realized that if the battery was so dead you still could not start the vehicle with a jump. "

Where do you think the voltage comes from for the ignition circuit?

You need a strong battery to:

1. Close the solenoid

2. Spin the starter

3. Engage the bendix

4. Provide voltage to the coil.

As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark. If the battery is almost totally dead, all you will hear is the solenoid clicking.

The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition.
75 Tips
 

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