My early 8N with front mount dist. died whilst snapping and backfiring.. Figured it was an ignition problem. Unbolted and lifted hood so I could see the points (due to arthritis and such I can hardly take off and replace distribuitor with hood in place). As I suspected the coil spring was touching the dist. Replaced points and condenser and put back together. Removed and cleaned carb, removed air cleaner for cleaning. Replaced spark plugs. The plugs show good spark, gas is flowing. It will sometimes start but runs VERY slow (slower than normal idle speed) and wont respond to throttle (yes, its hooked to carb). Any suggestions?
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- Thread starter creeker
- Start date
U set points on .015? Will spark jump gap of old plug gapped to 3/16"? Good
strong Blue spark--not yellow?? Does choke make it run better? Plugs gapped
.025? With plug removed from bottom of carb, does it flow steady solid
stream, not just a drizzle??--Few things to check and consider..
strong Blue spark--not yellow?? Does choke make it run better? Plugs gapped
.025? With plug removed from bottom of carb, does it flow steady solid
stream, not just a drizzle??--Few things to check and consider..
when you open your throttle it just allows for more air to suck up more fuel to the engine. if your throttle plate is closed all the time that would cause that. another cause is your carb float is stuck not letting any fuel in. sounds like you have a carb issue or for some reason the fuel isn't getting to the carb.
Tim PloughNman Daley RIP
Well-known Member
Creek-
The coil spring should be touching the screw top in the distributor. Seems like a lot more work to remove the hood just to get at the distributor. I have arthritis as well, hands in pain 24/7 and I had Carpal Tunnel surgery on both in 2000 which did nothing. My hands are on the rather large side as well. When I do a tune-up on front mounts, I always first disconnect the battery, then loosen the generator and slide the belt up over the fan out of the way. That makes it a whole lot easier to get the distributor pulled out and on the workbench to clean and rebuild. Did you take the distributor off and rebuild it off the tractor? Just slapping new pints in it without checking the timing and bushing backlash is not going to work. Just throwing new parts at something won't fix the true root cause. You need to do a systematic problem solving method of several test first. Backfiring can also be caused by an electrical short to ground. Poor and/or incorrect wiring comes to my mind. Do you have a copy of Bruce(VA)'s 75 Tips? If not here's a LINK...
75 Tips
The coil spring should be touching the screw top in the distributor. Seems like a lot more work to remove the hood just to get at the distributor. I have arthritis as well, hands in pain 24/7 and I had Carpal Tunnel surgery on both in 2000 which did nothing. My hands are on the rather large side as well. When I do a tune-up on front mounts, I always first disconnect the battery, then loosen the generator and slide the belt up over the fan out of the way. That makes it a whole lot easier to get the distributor pulled out and on the workbench to clean and rebuild. Did you take the distributor off and rebuild it off the tractor? Just slapping new pints in it without checking the timing and bushing backlash is not going to work. Just throwing new parts at something won't fix the true root cause. You need to do a systematic problem solving method of several test first. Backfiring can also be caused by an electrical short to ground. Poor and/or incorrect wiring comes to my mind. Do you have a copy of Bruce(VA)'s 75 Tips? If not here's a LINK...
75 Tips
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
" As I suspected the coil spring was touching the dist."
It's supposed to touch the brass screw.
But......
If you put the large C clip in wrong, or get carried away with the timing adjustment, the screw will indeed ground to the distributor case. But, I've never had that cause backfiring. Once it's grounded, the tractor stops dead.
Time to start over.
The front distributor was designed to come off of the tractor to replace/adjust the points. To do this, remove the wire on the coil, remove the coil bail, remove the distributor cap & take the two bolts off. The base of the distributor has an offset tang & can only go back one way unless you really force it on.
The first thing you need to check is bushing wear. If the shaft has any sideways movement AT ALL, the bushings must be replaced. (see below)
Next, look at how the points & condenser are set in the distributor before you start pulling it down! Turn the tang & observe how the points open & close. If this is your first time doing it, draw a sketch! Make sure you are using quality points. I use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points (* see below). Be careful not to ground the tip of the condenser wire to the body of the distributor when you replace the points. Do not break the little copper strip that go to the points. (If you do, make another out of the old set of points). Check the insulator w/ your meter. If it's bad, replace it with a Hillman Group square .375 license plate screw, Item # 138916, model #881189. Also, make sure the condenser wire does not go through the same opening in the distributor as the coil pig tail. The condenser wire goes through the opening on the top right.
Look at the old points; are they burned, pitted or misaligned? Check the point gap, .015 on all four lobes. Make sure the blade is at a perfect right angle to the points. You want to feel just the slightest bit of drag when you pull the blade through the points. Set the points on the high side of the cam and ensure they align correctly. Make sure you have the star washers under the screws on the points. If you need to replace the 8-32 X .19 fillister head screws, ensure that the new screws do not interfere with the advance weights. Dress the points by running a piece of card stock or a brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. And, don?t forget to lube the rubbing block w/ cam lube; not Vaseline, not bearing grease, but cam lube . (** see below).
If you are using quality points and cannot get the gap to open to .015, chances are you need to replace the bushings.
Now, set the timing. Get a meter or test light, a 21/64? drill bit (*** see below) & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole (this will be your reference point for measuring). Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on the shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the picture. Rotate the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side OR CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is ?" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open (get your meter/light out now & check). If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard). Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4? of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ?" setting. (if the plate won?t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you?re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forward (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ?" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.
As you can see from the picture, this particular distributor needed to have the timing advanced by about 8? (two hash marks) to achieve the ?? measurement.
After you set the points & timing, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor. Before you start, make sure your meter/light works.
With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:
1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.
2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.
3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!
4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!
At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil misaligned trying to put it back together, one piece at a time. The result is something gets broken or you get a ?no spark? problem.
It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. Whatever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts). Place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush with the timing gear cover.
Double-check your firing order & plug wires. It?s 1-2-4-3, counterclockwise. It?s very easy to cross 3 & 4.
And finally, do not forget to remove the distributor on an annual basis (more often, depending on use) to check the point gap and re-lube the cam.
* NAPA part numbers:
? Points: FD-6769X
? Condenser: FD-71
? Rotor: FD-104
? Cap: FD-126
** Distributor cam lube:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=ECH+ML1
<http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=ECH+ML1&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1
&Dn=0&D=ECH+ML1&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0>
&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=ECH+ML1&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0
** Distributor cam lube
http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/subcategory__10151_-1_1065
1_11340
*** Rather than the drill bit, a jig made by Dan Allen (The Old Hokie) will make this task quicker & more accurate.
http://windyridgefarm.us/
**** Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move.
There are three ways to replace the bushings in a front distributor:
1. Buy new bushings (part numbers 9N12120 front & 18-12132 rear). Press
out the old ones, press in the new ones and ream to fit. CAUTION: do not try this unless you have a press & know how to use it. If you break the base, a new one costs $130. If you bend the tower which holds the front bushing, a new plate will cost you $30.
2. Take the new bushings and distributor to your local machine shop.
3. Send the distributor out for bushing replacement if you do not have a local machine shop.
Make sure your distributor isn?t worn out; check the wear parts with a micrometer and compare what you have to the factory specs (below).
Factory Specs:
Shaft top .4367 / .4370
Shaft Bottom .8625 / .8630
Cam Flats .789 / .791
Cam Lobes .869 / .871
Base Tang .177 / .178
75 Tips
It's supposed to touch the brass screw.
But......
If you put the large C clip in wrong, or get carried away with the timing adjustment, the screw will indeed ground to the distributor case. But, I've never had that cause backfiring. Once it's grounded, the tractor stops dead.
Time to start over.
The front distributor was designed to come off of the tractor to replace/adjust the points. To do this, remove the wire on the coil, remove the coil bail, remove the distributor cap & take the two bolts off. The base of the distributor has an offset tang & can only go back one way unless you really force it on.
The first thing you need to check is bushing wear. If the shaft has any sideways movement AT ALL, the bushings must be replaced. (see below)
Next, look at how the points & condenser are set in the distributor before you start pulling it down! Turn the tang & observe how the points open & close. If this is your first time doing it, draw a sketch! Make sure you are using quality points. I use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points (* see below). Be careful not to ground the tip of the condenser wire to the body of the distributor when you replace the points. Do not break the little copper strip that go to the points. (If you do, make another out of the old set of points). Check the insulator w/ your meter. If it's bad, replace it with a Hillman Group square .375 license plate screw, Item # 138916, model #881189. Also, make sure the condenser wire does not go through the same opening in the distributor as the coil pig tail. The condenser wire goes through the opening on the top right.
Look at the old points; are they burned, pitted or misaligned? Check the point gap, .015 on all four lobes. Make sure the blade is at a perfect right angle to the points. You want to feel just the slightest bit of drag when you pull the blade through the points. Set the points on the high side of the cam and ensure they align correctly. Make sure you have the star washers under the screws on the points. If you need to replace the 8-32 X .19 fillister head screws, ensure that the new screws do not interfere with the advance weights. Dress the points by running a piece of card stock or a brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. And, don?t forget to lube the rubbing block w/ cam lube; not Vaseline, not bearing grease, but cam lube . (** see below).
If you are using quality points and cannot get the gap to open to .015, chances are you need to replace the bushings.
Now, set the timing. Get a meter or test light, a 21/64? drill bit (*** see below) & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole (this will be your reference point for measuring). Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on the shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the picture. Rotate the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side OR CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is ?" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open (get your meter/light out now & check). If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard). Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4? of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ?" setting. (if the plate won?t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you?re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forward (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ?" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.
As you can see from the picture, this particular distributor needed to have the timing advanced by about 8? (two hash marks) to achieve the ?? measurement.
After you set the points & timing, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor. Before you start, make sure your meter/light works.
With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:
1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.
2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.
3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!
4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!
At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil misaligned trying to put it back together, one piece at a time. The result is something gets broken or you get a ?no spark? problem.
It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. Whatever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts). Place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush with the timing gear cover.
Double-check your firing order & plug wires. It?s 1-2-4-3, counterclockwise. It?s very easy to cross 3 & 4.
And finally, do not forget to remove the distributor on an annual basis (more often, depending on use) to check the point gap and re-lube the cam.
* NAPA part numbers:
? Points: FD-6769X
? Condenser: FD-71
? Rotor: FD-104
? Cap: FD-126
** Distributor cam lube:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=ECH+ML1
<http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=ECH+ML1&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1
&Dn=0&D=ECH+ML1&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0>
&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=ECH+ML1&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0
** Distributor cam lube
http://www.carquest.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/subcategory__10151_-1_1065
1_11340
*** Rather than the drill bit, a jig made by Dan Allen (The Old Hokie) will make this task quicker & more accurate.
http://windyridgefarm.us/
**** Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move.
There are three ways to replace the bushings in a front distributor:
1. Buy new bushings (part numbers 9N12120 front & 18-12132 rear). Press
out the old ones, press in the new ones and ream to fit. CAUTION: do not try this unless you have a press & know how to use it. If you break the base, a new one costs $130. If you bend the tower which holds the front bushing, a new plate will cost you $30.
2. Take the new bushings and distributor to your local machine shop.
3. Send the distributor out for bushing replacement if you do not have a local machine shop.
Make sure your distributor isn?t worn out; check the wear parts with a micrometer and compare what you have to the factory specs (below).
Factory Specs:
Shaft top .4367 / .4370
Shaft Bottom .8625 / .8630
Cam Flats .789 / .791
Cam Lobes .869 / .871
Base Tang .177 / .178
75 Tips
(quoted from post at 19:54:16 02/24/17) U set points on .015? Will spark jump gap of old plug gapped to 3/16"? Good
strong Blue spark--not yellow?? Does choke make it run better? Plugs gapped
.025? With plug removed from bottom of carb, does it flow steady solid
stream, not just a drizzle??--Few things to check and consider..
With plug out of carb the flow is about half of what it is going into carb,steady but kind of a drizzle. What does that indicate?
With old plug (they were pretty bad) the spark will only jump a normal gap, any wider it jumps to the side and is not real blue, partly yellow. With a new plug at normal gap (pre set) the spsrk is same, kind of blueish yellow. I don't gave a guage to check the gaps will get one Monday. Thanks for your help.(quoted from post at 15:24:10 02/25/17)(quoted from post at 19:54:16 02/24/17) U set points on .015? Will spark jump gap of old plug gapped to 3/16"? Good
strong Blue spark--not yellow?? Does choke make it run better? Plugs gapped
.025? With plug removed from bottom of carb, does it flow steady solid
stream, not just a drizzle??--Few things to check and consider..
With plug out of carb the flow is about half of what it is going into carb,steady but kind of a drizzle. What does that indicate?
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
" What does that indicate? "
Probably dirty fuel screens. Or a clogged tank vent.
Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. It should fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes. If it?s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it?s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it?s not a fuel problem.If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out for at least 30 seconds, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn?t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don?t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don?t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. (see tip # 45) Check the screen in the elbow (see tip # 56) & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don?t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank. (and do not forget to turn the gas off; see tip # 9)
75 Tips
Probably dirty fuel screens. Or a clogged tank vent.
Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. It should fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes. If it?s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it?s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it?s not a fuel problem.If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out for at least 30 seconds, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn?t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don?t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don?t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. (see tip # 45) Check the screen in the elbow (see tip # 56) & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don?t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank. (and do not forget to turn the gas off; see tip # 9)
75 Tips
First, thanks everyone for your good advice, I have tried to follow all. Haven't been able to get back sooner but got a Petronix electronic ignition kit and installed today (I decided I didn't want to go through this again.) Anyway it has good strong spark now but still will only run at a slow idle. It makes no difference if the throttle linkage is hooked up or not. The gas flow rate out the bottom of the carb is 1 pint in 1 min, 20 seconds. Good, right? Could the problem be in the governor? I don't really know how the work Any thoughts?(quoted from post at 16:38:18 02/25/17) " What does that indicate? "
Probably dirty fuel screens. Or a clogged tank vent.
Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. It should fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes. If it?s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it?s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it?s not a fuel problem.If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out for at least 30 seconds, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn?t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don?t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don?t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. (see tip # 45) Check the screen in the elbow (see tip # 56) & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don?t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank. (and do not forget to turn the gas off; see tip # 9)
75 Tips
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
(I decided I didn't want to go through this again.)
Well, that didn't work out so well did it?
Did you ever get it running on points? Because if you didn't, chances are very good that you still have the same problem which was not cured by installing EI.
So lets start over.
Did you set the timing before you installed the EI?
Did you check the advance weights?
" Anyway it has good strong spark"
Tell us how you know that.
" The gas flow rate out the bottom of the carb is 1 pint in 1 min, 20 seconds. Good, right?"
Yes
" Could the problem be in the governor?"
No. But if the linkage is screwed up, that would prevent it from throttling up. Have you removed any of the linkage?
What exactly happens when you increase the throttle? Any increase in RPM's?
75 Tips
Well, that didn't work out so well did it?
Did you ever get it running on points? Because if you didn't, chances are very good that you still have the same problem which was not cured by installing EI.
So lets start over.
Did you set the timing before you installed the EI?
Did you check the advance weights?
" Anyway it has good strong spark"
Tell us how you know that.
" The gas flow rate out the bottom of the carb is 1 pint in 1 min, 20 seconds. Good, right?"
Yes
" Could the problem be in the governor?"
No. But if the linkage is screwed up, that would prevent it from throttling up. Have you removed any of the linkage?
What exactly happens when you increase the throttle? Any increase in RPM's?
75 Tips
Yes, I got it running on points, a little slower than now and didn't start quite as readily.(quoted from post at 16:27:51 03/16/17) (I decided I didn't want to go through this again.)
Well, that didn't work out so well did it?
Did you ever get it running on points? Because if you didn't, chances are very good that you still have the same problem which was not cured by installing EI.
So lets start over.
Did you set the timing before you installed the EI?
Did you check the advance weights?
" Anyway it has good strong spark"
Tell us how you know that.
" The gas flow rate out the bottom of the carb is 1 pint in 1 min, 20 seconds. Good, right?"
Yes
" Could the problem be in the governor?"
No. But if the linkage is screwed up, that would prevent it from throttling up. Have you removed any of the linkage?
What exactly happens when you increase the throttle? Any increase in RPM's?
75 Tips
The the timing adjustment slide was positioned in the middle of the slot. I don't know what the advance weights are.
A spark plug was removed and rested on the manifold with wire attached. When turned over it shot a blue spark to ground.
Nothing happens when the throttle is increased. No RPM increase, whether the throttle linkage is attached to the governor linkage or not. I have tried it both ways and manipulated the carb manually, no change in RPMs.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
(quoted from post at 19:47:56 03/16/17)Yes, I got it running on points, a little slower than now and didn't start quite as readily.(quoted from post at 16:27:51 03/16/17) (I decided I didn't want to go through this again.)
Well, that didn't work out so well did it?
Did you ever get it running on points? Because if you didn't, chances are very good that you still have the same problem which was not cured by installing EI.
So lets start over.
Did you set the timing before you installed the EI?
Did you check the advance weights?
" Anyway it has good strong spark"
Tell us how you know that.
" The gas flow rate out the bottom of the carb is 1 pint in 1 min, 20 seconds. Good, right?"
Yes
" Could the problem be in the governor?"
No. But if the linkage is screwed up, that would prevent it from throttling up. Have you removed any of the linkage?
What exactly happens when you increase the throttle? Any increase in RPM's?
75 Tips
The the timing adjustment slide was positioned in the middle of the slot. I don't know what the advance weights are.
A spark plug was removed and rested on the manifold with wire attached. When turned over it shot a blue spark to ground.
Nothing happens when the throttle is increased. No RPM increase, whether the throttle linkage is attached to the governor linkage or not. I have tried it both ways and manipulated the carb manually, no change in RPMs.
The weights are under the plate in the distributor. But that's not your problem. Sounds like the throttle plate in the carb isn't moving when the linkage is. Have you had the carb off recently?
Yes, had it off 3 times since these problems started. Will do so again and check this out. Will be gone today and will get back with you tomorrow.(quoted from post at 20:07:59 03/16/17)(quoted from post at 19:47:56 03/16/17)Yes, I got it running on points, a little slower than now and didn't start quite as readily.(quoted from post at 16:27:51 03/16/17) (I decided I didn't want to go through this again.)
Well, that didn't work out so well did it?
Did you ever get it running on points? Because if you didn't, chances are very good that you still have the same problem which was not cured by installing EI.
So lets start over.
Did you set the timing before you installed the EI?
Did you check the advance weights?
" Anyway it has good strong spark"
Tell us how you know that.
" The gas flow rate out the bottom of the carb is 1 pint in 1 min, 20 seconds. Good, right?"
Yes
" Could the problem be in the governor?"
No. But if the linkage is screwed up, that would prevent it from throttling up. Have you removed any of the linkage?
What exactly happens when you increase the throttle? Any increase in RPM's?
75 Tips
The the timing adjustment slide was positioned in the middle of the slot. I don't know what the advance weights are.
A spark plug was removed and rested on the manifold with wire attached. When turned over it shot a blue spark to ground.
Nothing happens when the throttle is increased. No RPM increase, whether the throttle linkage is attached to the governor linkage or not. I have tried it both ways and manipulated the carb manually, no change in RPMs.
The weights are under the plate in the distributor. But that's not your problem. Sounds like the throttle plate in the carb isn't moving when the linkage is. Have you had the carb off recently?
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
(quoted from post at 06:38:00 03/17/17)(quoted from post at 20:07:59 03/16/17)(quoted from post at 19:47:56 03/16/17)Yes, I got it running on points, a little slower than now and didn't start quite as readily.(quoted from post at 16:27:51 03/16/17) (I decided I didn't want to go through this again.)
Well, that didn't work out so well did it?
Did you ever get it running on points? Because if you didn't, chances are very good that you still have the same problem which was not cured by installing EI.
So lets start over.
Did you set the timing before you installed the EI?
Did you check the advance weights?
" Anyway it has good strong spark"
Tell us how you know that.
" The gas flow rate out the bottom of the carb is 1 pint in 1 min, 20 seconds. Good, right?"
Yes
" Could the problem be in the governor?"
No. But if the linkage is screwed up, that would prevent it from throttling up. Have you removed any of the linkage?
What exactly happens when you increase the throttle? Any increase in RPM's?
75 Tips
The the timing adjustment slide was positioned in the middle of the slot. I don't know what the advance weights are.
A spark plug was removed and rested on the manifold with wire attached. When turned over it shot a blue spark to ground.
Nothing happens when the throttle is increased. No RPM increase, whether the throttle linkage is attached to the governor linkage or not. I have tried it both ways and manipulated the carb manually, no change in RPMs.
The weights are under the plate in the distributor. But that's not your problem. Sounds like the throttle plate in the carb isn't moving when the linkage is. Have you had the carb off recently?
Yea, pull it off. It's possible that the end of the throttle rod shaft came loose from the rod itself. Or somehow the butterfly isn't closing. I've never heard of either occuring, so do post back with what you find.
(quoted from post at 08:29:49 03/17/17)The butterfly is opening and closing with movement of the lever on side of the carb. The screws that hold it are tight. All seems normal there. As I had said earlier there is no engine response whether the throttle is opened manually or with the throttle rod hooked up.(quoted from post at 06:38:00 03/17/17)(quoted from post at 20:07:59 03/16/17)(quoted from post at 19:47:56 03/16/17)Yes, I got it running on points, a little slower than now and didn't start quite as readily.(quoted from post at 16:27:51 03/16/17) (I decided I didn't want to go through this again.)
Well, that didn't work out so well did it?
Did you ever get it running on points? Because if you didn't, chances are very good that you still have the same problem which was not cured by installing EI.
So lets start over.
Did you set the timing before you installed the EI?
Did you check the advance weights?
" Anyway it has good strong spark"
Tell us how you know that.
" The gas flow rate out the bottom of the carb is 1 pint in 1 min, 20 seconds. Good, right?"
Yes
" Could the problem be in the governor?"
No. But if the linkage is screwed up, that would prevent it from throttling up. Have you removed any of the linkage?
What exactly happens when you increase the throttle? Any increase in RPM's?
75 Tips
The the timing adjustment slide was positioned in the middle of the slot. I don't know what the advance weights are.
A spark plug was removed and rested on the manifold with wire attached. When turned over it shot a blue spark to ground.
Nothing happens when the throttle is increased. No RPM increase, whether the throttle linkage is attached to the governor linkage or not. I have tried it both ways and manipulated the carb manually, no change in RPMs.
The weights are under the plate in the distributor. But that's not your problem. Sounds like the throttle plate in the carb isn't moving when the linkage is. Have you had the carb off recently?
Yea, pull it off. It's possible that the end of the throttle rod shaft came loose from the rod itself. Or somehow the butterfly isn't closing. I've never heard of either occuring, so do post back with what you find.
The needle valve over the float tends to stick, especially now with it off and dry but drops when the body is tapped.
I thought I responded yesterday but apparently missed a cue and it didn't get through. Sorry. Awaiting your reply.
(quoted from post at 06:38:00 03/17/17)Bruce, this is third time I'v tried to reply. Hope you get it. Everything in carb is normal, screws tight on plate and body. Will take it to a shop tomorrow to be cleaned. The springs on the dist. weights are weak. May get a repair kit or a new one. I'm out of time.(quoted from post at 20:07:59 03/16/17)(quoted from post at 19:47:56 03/16/17)Yes, I got it running on points, a little slower than now and didn't start quite as readily.(quoted from post at 16:27:51 03/16/17) (I decided I didn't want to go through this again.)
Well, that didn't work out so well did it?
Did you ever get it running on points? Because if you didn't, chances are very good that you still have the same problem which was not cured by installing EI.
So lets start over.
Did you set the timing before you installed the EI?
Did you check the advance weights?
" Anyway it has good strong spark"
Tell us how you know that.
" The gas flow rate out the bottom of the carb is 1 pint in 1 min, 20 seconds. Good, right?"
Yes
" Could the problem be in the governor?"
No. But if the linkage is screwed up, that would prevent it from throttling up. Have you removed any of the linkage?
What exactly happens when you increase the throttle? Any increase in RPM's?
75 Tips
The the timing adjustment slide was positioned in the middle of the slot. I don't know what the advance weights are.
A spark plug was removed and rested on the manifold with wire attached. When turned over it shot a blue spark to ground.
Nothing happens when the throttle is increased. No RPM increase, whether the throttle linkage is attached to the governor linkage or not. I have tried it both ways and manipulated the carb manually, no change in RPMs.
The weights are under the plate in the distributor. But that's not your problem. Sounds like the throttle plate in the carb isn't moving when the linkage is. Have you had the carb off recently?
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
(quoted from post at 18:55:10 03/20/17)(quoted from post at 06:38:00 03/17/17)Bruce, this is third time I'v tried to reply. Hope you get it. Everything in carb is normal, screws tight on plate and body. Will take it to a shop tomorrow to be cleaned. The springs on the dist. weights are weak. May get a repair kit or a new one. I'm out of time.(quoted from post at 20:07:59 03/16/17)(quoted from post at 19:47:56 03/16/17)Yes, I got it running on points, a little slower than now and didn't start quite as readily.(quoted from post at 16:27:51 03/16/17) (I decided I didn't want to go through this again.)
Well, that didn't work out so well did it?
Did you ever get it running on points? Because if you didn't, chances are very good that you still have the same problem which was not cured by installing EI.
So lets start over.
Did you set the timing before you installed the EI?
Did you check the advance weights?
" Anyway it has good strong spark"
Tell us how you know that.
" The gas flow rate out the bottom of the carb is 1 pint in 1 min, 20 seconds. Good, right?"
Yes
" Could the problem be in the governor?"
No. But if the linkage is screwed up, that would prevent it from throttling up. Have you removed any of the linkage?
What exactly happens when you increase the throttle? Any increase in RPM's?
75 Tips
The the timing adjustment slide was positioned in the middle of the slot. I don't know what the advance weights are.
A spark plug was removed and rested on the manifold with wire attached. When turned over it shot a blue spark to ground.
Nothing happens when the throttle is increased. No RPM increase, whether the throttle linkage is attached to the governor linkage or not. I have tried it both ways and manipulated the carb manually, no change in RPMs.
The weights are under the plate in the distributor. But that's not your problem. Sounds like the throttle plate in the carb isn't moving when the linkage is. Have you had the carb off recently?
I'm totally lost. Last thing I'd suggest is starting fluid or carb cleaner in the carb throat while it's running. But if you're out of time, I understand. Pls post back w/ what the problem was.
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