(quoted from post at 22:04:42 10/31/16)
"but I've got to point out that all of my tractors run & yours doesn't." Ha, I guess I deserved that.
Sorry if it seems like I've been ignoring your suggestions. I haven't. I've done most of them, or at least what I believe you were asking of me; but you are right, I haven't done the best at answering back with the results.
So, to better answer your suggestions from last week...
When checking for voltage across the points and 'wiggling' insulator and what I thought to be the "copper strip" I lost voltage to the points I once had. I assumed that meant it was shorting out somewhere there. Most of the issue was confusion on my end. When you were saying "copper strip", I thought you were talking about the spring. See MY "copper strip" is actually a "little piece of wire" running from the primary screw to the terminal at the spring, but I didn't realize it at the time. SO, my thinking was, if I needed to replace the "copper strip" (thinking it was the spring), then I would buy the ignition tune-up kit that sold the points (with sprig attached obviously), condenser and rotor and just put new parts in. THIS is where I think my biggest confusion was but I didn't even realize it until later last night. So, when I got my new points, I didn't dress them with card stock or brown paper, etc. NOR did I file them(yeah I know I bought the file, but it was only a couple bucks and I thought I might need it for something). The only thing I did with them is spray my feeler gauge down with contact cleaner and set the gap to .025". So, yeah, I replaced parts that probably weren't the issue to begin with.
As far as the cap, from what I can tell, the old one seems to look alright. I didn't see any cracks and don't think there was any carbon tracks.
At the time, I pulled wire from the coil to the distributor of the cap and held it ~ 1/4 inch from a bare metal spot on the block...didn't get a spark. Which would make sense now...if I wasn't fixing the grounding issue at the insulator area. Regardless, the new coil is on there now.
There is a clip on the shaft for the rotor. Is it supposed to stay on the shaft when installing the rotor? Or should the clip sit in the rotor, then snapped down onto the shaft? I guess at the end of the day it ends up in the same place. Just didn't know if there was a better/correct way to do it. Right now it just doesn't seem like I'm getting the rotor all the way down, but like I said earlier, I don't know how I could press any harder on it without getting a c-clamp or something similar. But every time I pop the cap, the rotor seems to be a little loose.
Dell - The "feedthru" I have currently is paper. Almost looks like a tiny piece of sandpaper. I thought it was kinda odd.
I'm going to see if I can add some pics...it might help clear things up a little better.
To kinda summarize again...
I bought new points,condenser, rotor, cap, plug wires and coil. I didn't file my points(because I bought new ones). Instead, I just sprayed my feeler gauge off with cleaner and set the gap to .025. I replaced what should be the "copper strip" (in my case it was a small piece of wire...from PO apparently) last night and was able to get spark at the #1 spark plug wire last night using the tester, however, no spark at the other 3 wires. So, I popped the dizzy cap to investigate and noticed that the rotor was loose...even though I pushed it on as far as I thought possible..but it may be I'm not getting it far enough. That's what I'm thinking anyways. So what do you guys think/suggest? Should I go ahead and replace my "little wire" with the original "copper strip" and update the insulator and feedthru paper? I was getting spark last night, so I don't think it's currently grounding out, but I'd rather be safe than sorry down the road(or in the middle of a field). Do you think I'm just not getting the rotor far enough down on the clip and its just getting stuck at the #1 plug in the cap?
