Hydraulic Fluid Question

rw3al3

Member
Could someone tell me what kind of fluid and where to add to the hydraulic lift. It's low on the dipstick under the seat and rear PTO seal is leaking just dont have time to fix it right now. This is the 8N I just did a complete tune up on and want to top it off before I deliver it back to my uncle. Thanks in Advance.Ricky
 
(quoted from post at 12:55:01 02/14/17) Could someone tell me what kind of fluid and where to add to the hydraulic lift. It's low on the dipstick under the seat and rear PTO seal is leaking just dont have time to fix it right now. This is the 8N I just did a complete tune up on and want to top it off before I deliver it back to my uncle. Thanks in Advance.Ricky

The transmission, drive axles, and hydraulic systemshare a common sump. Use a good quality Universal Tractor Transmission Fluid (UTTF) or a good quailty SAE 80W90 mild/hypoid EP gear oil. DO NOT use a conventionalhydraulic oil as it lacks the EP additives needed for the drive train.

TOH
 
Please clarify. I just add 90w gear oil and it works rear axles, lift, etc. No hydraulic fluid? And I add it where? The gear shif
fill hole?
 
Drain the fluid. (see tips 3 & 4) Don't try to short cut it by jacking up the rear end. If you have a defective front transmission seal, you will fill the bell housing w/ hydraulic fluid. Then you will be replacing the clutch. Remove the 4 bolts & pull the shaft out. The seal is held in place by two C spring clips. Take your needle nose pliers & remove the one in the front. Then, hang the shaft & bearing housing in your vice & tap the butt end of the shaft; the bearing cap will come off (and the shaft will land on your foot). Then, remove the other spring clip from the other side of the bearing. At this point, remember that you never bought a seal driver & go get a BF socket & drive the seal out. If you have the new style seal, the white side goes out. (open side to the oil) Put some grease on it.
75 Tips
 
"Remove the 4 bolts & pull the shaft out."

Hopefully. I've been lucky so far. No badly twisted shafts.

When putting it back in, align the splines carefully.
Don't use a hammer to put the shaft back in or you can
break the hydraulic pump and cause yourself more work.
 
So I add the fluid at the gear shift cap. Don't need to removed the access panel where the dip stick is located?
 
(quoted from post at 23:53:07 02/14/17) So I add the fluid at the gear shift cap. Don't need to removed the access panel where the dip stick is located?
The transmission filler serves all three sumps. There is no need to remove either inspection cover although a lot of people remove the lower bolt and fill until oil begins to run out of that hole. It takes a little while for oil to flow from the tranmsmission to the hydraulic sump so don't get carried away pouring it into the transmssion. Put in what you think you need and wait a bit for the levels to equalize before adding more.

TOH
 
Before you add anything, ask your uncle what he uses, that way you will be mixing different types of oil, or he may have some already. He will respect you for checking the oil and for asking.
 
(quoted from post at 20:38:13 02/14/17) "Remove the 4 bolts & pull the shaft out."

Hopefully. I've been lucky so far. No badly twisted shafts.

When putting it back in, align the splines carefully.
Don't use a hammer to put the shaft back in or you can
break the hydraulic pump and cause yourself more work.

I put off changing my 1 1/8" PTO shaft out for a 1 3/8" shaft for around 9 years mainly because I was afraid of running into problems with a twisted shaft.

When I first got this tractor with mower I used it to clean up my five acres of virgin brush covered ground. Knowing nothing about the slip clutch on it, I did not know it was frozen up. I didn't even know what it was for. The mower did not have a stump jumper on it either. That mower took a lot of very hard whacks going through stuff and hitting what I didn't know was there.

Anyway, I finally found a stump jumper for it a couple years ago. I also finally got the guts to change out the PTO shaft when I had to pull the top cover and make some repairs. I really wanted a push button ORC so I could remove it and cover the shaft during the winter months and they don't make one for the 1 1/8" shaft.

It really surprised me when that PTO shaft pulled out slick as butter. I really expected to have problems with it. So anyway, what I'm getting is don't be afraid of the horror stories about pulling your PTO shaft out. If you have a 1 1/8" shaft, I would replace it with a 1 3/8" while you have it out. They are not really that expensive and come complete ready to just shove into the hole.

Oh, and I did rebuild that slip clutch and it works great now.
 

[b:a15c9ee53b]"It really surprised me when that PTO shaft pulled out slick as butter. I really expected to have problems with it. So anyway, what I'm getting is don't be afraid of the horror stories about pulling your PTO shaft out. If you have a 1 1/8" shaft, I would replace it with a 1 3/8" while you have it out. They are not really that expensive and come complete ready to just shove into the hole."[/b:a15c9ee53b]

this mirrors my experience with the job. the main difference is that i didn't have any hesitation because i'd never heard the twisted spline horror stories before i made the swap.
 
(quoted from post at 12:00:17 02/15/17)
[b:1a6b31de22]"It really surprised me when that PTO shaft pulled out slick as butter. I really expected to have problems with it. So anyway, what I'm getting is don't be afraid of the horror stories about pulling your PTO shaft out. If you have a 1 1/8" shaft, I would replace it with a 1 3/8" while you have it out. They are not really that expensive and come complete ready to just shove into the hole."[/b:1a6b31de22]

this mirrors my experience with the job. the main difference is that i didn't have any hesitation because i'd never heard the twisted spline horror stories before i made the swap.

The twisted shaft horror stories are just one of the many many great things I've learned on this site. :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 

I want to make sure I understand this. You, or someone, keeps using term "sumps". One filler fills the transmission [b:c8bf0a6b44][i:c8bf0a6b44]AND [/i:c8bf0a6b44][/b:c8bf0a6b44] hydraulic pump?[/i]
 
(quoted from post at 11:57:40 12/20/18)
I want to make sure I understand this. You, or someone, keeps using term "sumps". One filler fills the transmission [b:0562ea7699][i:0562ea7699]AND [/i:0562ea7699][/b:0562ea7699] hydraulic pump?[/i]

ONE FILL POINT FOR ALL THREE SUMPS.
 
(quoted from post at 11:57:40 12/20/18)
I want to make sure I understand this. You, or someone, keeps using term "sumps". One filler fills the transmission [b:cfb22f0874][i:cfb22f0874]AND [/i:cfb22f0874][/b:cfb22f0874] hydraulic pump?[/i]

ONE FILL POINT FOR ALL THREE SUMPS.
 
(quoted from post at 10:57:40 12/20/18)
I want to make sure I understand this. You, or someone, keeps using term "sumps". One filler fills the transmission [b:e6122bcb56][i:e6122bcb56]AND [/i:e6122bcb56][/b:e6122bcb56] hydraulic pump?[/i]

You have one filler hole by your gearshift. This is the only filler hole for the transmission and back of your tractor. You add fluid there and it fills up everything from the trans on back.

If you drained the hydro fluid, be careful when refilling it. You fill from that transmission hole but sometimes it is a little slow making it's way back to the rear end. So when you get close to full add a little and wait a while before checking the dipstick at the rear end. You don't want to overfill it.
 
(quoted from post at 12:37:28 12/20/18)
You have one filler hole by your gearshift. This is the only filler hole for the transmission and back of your tractor. You add fluid there and it fills up everything from the trans on back.

If you drained the hydro fluid, be careful when refilling it. You fill from that transmission hole but sometimes it is a little slow making it's way back to the rear end. So when you get close to full add a little and wait a while before checking the dipstick at the rear end. You don't want to overfill it.

So I am going to [b:35d7659c75][i:35d7659c75]really [/i:35d7659c75][/b:35d7659c75] expose my ignorance here. But I jumped in here on this thread before realizing my tractor is a 641 model. It has three fill spots: on the top of the transmission for it, 2) Under the seat for the hydraulics and, 3) above the axle for the rear end. Obviously, before, one could use the same fluid for all. But now, since there are separate fill locations is it better to use say, hydraulic fluid for the hydraulics. I have gear oil which I got for the rear end. But before using it for the hydraulics I want to get your advice.
Thank you.
 
(quoted from post at 16:35:53 12/29/18)
(quoted from post at 12:37:28 12/20/18)
You have one filler hole by your gearshift. This is the only filler hole for the transmission and back of your tractor. You add fluid there and it fills up everything from the trans on back.

If you drained the hydro fluid, be careful when refilling it. You fill from that transmission hole but sometimes it is a little slow making it's way back to the rear end. So when you get close to full add a little and wait a while before checking the dipstick at the rear end. You don't want to overfill it.

So I am going to [b:50c7ebea67][i:50c7ebea67]really [/i:50c7ebea67][/b:50c7ebea67] expose my ignorance here. But I jumped in here on this thread before realizing my tractor is a 641 model. It has three fill spots: on the top of the transmission for it, 2) Under the seat for the hydraulics and, 3) above the axle for the rear end. Obviously, before, one could use the same fluid for all. But now, since there are separate fill locations is it better to use say, hydraulic fluid for the hydraulics. I have gear oil which I got for the rear end. But before using it for the hydraulics I want to get your advice.
Thank you.
Certainly a different animal from an 8N! Nice sized tractor too.
I had a lot of fun bringing a 640 back to life a few years back.
 

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