2N Hydraulic Pump Rebuild

Jason1Pa

Member
Hey Yall,
I'm getting ready to rebuild the hydraulic pump on a 2N. I have it all tore apart and cleaned. I have read the manual and have all my new parts on hand. Just have a few questions that the manual doesn't talk about and I haven't found anything searching online.

#1 How can you tell for sure that the Outlet and Inlet valves were seating properly? I'm assuming that if they have a nice shiny even mark around the valve they were seating just fine?

#2 How would you remover the "socket" out of the valve chamber? That's the first piece that goes down in and holds the valve guides in. I wouldn't hesitate to use the old ones as they seem fine,but I have new ones and was curious how to get them out? Cant tap hem out or grab them with needle nose plyers.

#3 I received 4 copper washers with the rebuild kit. I sure don't see any when I took it apart and I can't find any even listed in the parts list.

If anyone has any tips or other things I should be concerned about please let me know. This pump was actually working fine I was just getting a lot of leaking going on in the cylinder. I am restoring this tractor and I just like to take everything a part and replace what I can and check everything over. Don't ever want to run the risk of scratching up new paint if I don't have too.
 
"If anyone has any tips or other things I should be concerned about please let me know. "

Well, means you asked............

" This pump was actually working fine "

Why are you doing anything to the pump other than cleaning it? that's all I'd do, and all I've ever done w/ 3 8N's that I've restored.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 03:20:40 01/29/17) Hey Yall,
I'm getting ready to rebuild the hydraulic pump on a 2N. I have it all tore apart and cleaned. I have read the manual and have all my new parts on hand. Just have a few questions that the manual doesn't talk about and I haven't found anything searching online.

#1 How can you tell for sure that the Outlet and Inlet valves were seating properly? I'm assuming that if they have a nice shiny even mark around the valve they were seating just fine?

#2 How would you remover the "socket" out of the valve chamber? That's the first piece that goes down in and holds the valve guides in. I wouldn't hesitate to use the old ones as they seem fine,but I have new ones and was curious how to get them out? Cant tap hem out or grab them with needle nose plyers.

#3 I received 4 copper washers with the rebuild kit. I sure don't see any when I took it apart and I can't find any even listed in the parts list.

If anyone has any tips or other things I should be concerned about please let me know. This pump was actually working fine I was just getting a lot of leaking going on in the cylinder. I am restoring this tractor and I just like to take everything a part and replace what I can and check everything over. Don't ever want to run the risk of scratching up new paint if I don't have too.

#1 Yes, JMOR has posted how to check for a seal its nuttin to lose any sleep over if the seats look good.

2# I have a plastic pic like a pointed pencil I jam in it to pull them up. They do not need to come out its your call.

#3 dunno off hand.

4) drive out the sleeve the control valve fits into and clean out the chit that's trapped behind it and flush the circuit. Its the most over look part of cleaning a pump nuttin to it.
 

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