Fuel pump problem 504 engine

Hi,

Today I drove about 45min to the dealer, took a break of 15min and then drove back home with the MF97. When I wanted to take a turn on the road I reduced the throttle to about 1200rpm, but the engine stopped completely. Tried to start again but it won't fire up. After a few minutes waiting the engine started and I could drive further. But after just a few minutes I got the same problem again. Engine had no power and I had the idea that it was strangled. Took it out of gear and engine stopped also. 4-5 minutes waited and engine fired up directly within 3 seconds. But at max rpm, if it reached that, the rpm's were very irregular and could change 200-300 plus and minus. It stayed a few minutes at about 1600-1800 rpm and then plummets and died again. This all seems to look like a shortage of fuel, there was no smoke coming out of the exhaust. But we changed some things before:
Replaced the old fuel for new.
Replaced the 2 fuel filters.
Refilled the fuel tank with new diesel.
After this all, we had the engine running for several hours, without any problems. It drove some tours and I used the PTO some hours for mixing slurry. During these activities I never noticed any problems with engine power, it ran maybe for 8 hours together. I've read something about algae on the forum but I use new diesel, can't imagine that this is the cause. The fuel pump has no feeding pump, so maybe this is a solution? It should work without so maybe there is something else. Has anyone ever had the same problems with this engine and what where the solutions? Didn't check the fuel supply to the Roosamaster pump yet.
 
Most likely your governor retaining ring is falling apart. Loosen the little timing window cover (set a bucket under it) and one check for little piece of the governor ring in the fuel. I think I sent you an e-mail about your hot hydraulic system did you receive it? if not send me one before you ruin your hydraulic pump!. J.
 
I've seen your email and replied to it, but maybe something gone wrong. I'll try again.

A broken retaining ring, can this cause also more max rpm than usual? The tractor meter gauge before stopped at 1800rpm, but now keeps turning to I guess 2200rpm. At that moment I got some throttle left, but the engine doesn't run as smooth then.
 
I've tried to check the for the timing cover but is it the small plate with 2 screws? It says timing end inj stamped on it.
a279213.jpg
 
On top of pump there is a T in return line. Remove T and fittings and clean. Some had a ball valve that stuck. If your governor ring is deteriorating the black pieces will plug line. Usually when governor ring going rpm will be erratic. Never had to rebuild pump on my 97 but had to do 4020 JD
 
Hi all,

I've checked both, see picture from the timing cover. This is what's inside, can move the front part forward a bit with a screwdriver.

I also removed the T piece on top for the return line. This was all clean and the line to the tank too. There was no ball inside and sticked
a screwdriver in the pump, came out clean. Found nothing so far.
a279239.jpg
 
Another thought, on my GVI in the fuel tank the guy before me had added a stub on the line so fuel couldn't couldn't drain from the bottom 1.5" of the tank. Well that stub collected enough crud and shut the tractor down. It doesn't take much to restrict fuel flow when it's relying on gravity. Blow the line backwards from the filters to the tank. I've got that pump and it can take a lot of "abuse" and cause no problems.
 
I agree with John S, most likely time for injection pump repair. Has engine ever varied the speed a bit without touching the throttle? That's another clue it needs repair soon. Have an IF 856 pump in now for the same issue. Don't run it much longer or you won't have a pump worth repairing. Not pretty when the hydraulic head seizes and drive shaft breaks because the retainer pins are sheared off, seizing the rotor..
 
Hello on my XT 190 allis I had the same trouble a friend of mine told me to remove the
fitting on the top of the pump and look for O ring pieces ( I never seen any in the fitting
) if I found any he told me drill out the check valve( the pieces cause the return to block
and the pump to build up pressure causing the tractor to shut down ) I did not drill mine
out but I replaced it with a 1/8" hose bib several years ago ( 8 plus) and it still runs
this is my yard tractor ( I grind about 3 loads of feed a week with it ) I guess I am
running on borrowed time but it still runs for now . The next time it stops remove the
fitting and try to start it ( some fuel will be pumped out onto the ground ) if it stats
right up I would bet the return is being plugged good luck Bryan
 
Today I've checked the fuel line, blew the fuel line backwards and this was all open. I decided to refuel at the station 1km away, but on my way it stopped 4 times again. Refilled the tank with 100L and drove back home. In front of the workshop set the engine at 1200rpm and waited 3 minutes untill it died. Then quickly opened the bleeding screw on top of the second fuel filter and it sucked air inside, so there is not enough fuelsupply to the pump. Opened both filters but the fueltap in front of the filters was totally blocked!! Cleaned it all and made a 30min test-drive afterwards. All is working well again including the regulator! A bit strange that I could start the engine so quickly after it ran dry, but it is obvious that the USA build machinery is though to break!

Thank you all for your helping and the replies! Tomorrow the tractor will go to a local show to shine!
a279717.jpg
 
A bit strange that I could start the engine so quickly after it ran dry, but it is obvious that the USA build machinery is though to break!

A Roosamaster is self bleeding. A CAV pump (common in Europe), is not...
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top