1935 FTA oil filter

FTA would not have had a filter. Felt packing was filter originally. Updated was same as U or G Original number KE5905. Sock type are available.
 
Thanks, how is the oil pressure adjusted? This has a filter housing like a KTA.
And how much pressure should it be running?
 
That's kind of what I thought, mine is over oiling at 30 if the guage is correct.
How is the pressure adjusted?
 
Pressure regulator screw on bottom of filter housing. 30 is a little high. I would set 30 cold. Motor must be in decent shape on bottom end.
 
Thanks a lot for the help, its been bothering me for a couple of days and I hadn't been
able to get a plan together. The engine has great compression and ran really well before
that, I was planning on taking it to our show in August and then taking it down this winter
for inspection and repairs, seems like changing oil caused all this trouble and I think im
going to switch to non detergent oil also, just put in straight 30 weight Saturday.
 
Something I forgot to mention, I had a few suggestions about the bottom end being worn, but if
it was badly worn wouldn't it be hard to get such high oil pressure? I'm tellin ya, it shoots
up out of the rockers like a water fountain at the park.
 
Someone suggested hydraulic oil. U/KTA oil filter setup same. Basic. Thinking pressure too high thus knocking out your O ring. Blockage? Maybe take off filter housing and clean.
 
Thanks, i'll take that housing clear off and disassemble it, see whats up hopefully.
Never ran into such a thing, but these are my first TC/M&M tractors, I really need to
get a manual.
 
You can still get the canister oil filters from Baldwin. The one for the FTA is the same as a G so when you ask the retailer for the application just tell him a G Minnie. The KTA uses the smaller one like the U. I get them from Hampel in Wichita.
 
Non detergent oil should only be used to lubricate door hinges and has no place in an internal combustion engine.
 
(quoted from post at 21:18:56 06/01/18) Non detergent oil should only be used to lubricate door hinges and has no place in an internal combustion engine.

Wow Einstein, where were you 75 years ago.

I would never use detergent oil in an engine that has never had it used in it before. If Non detergent was good enough when the tractor was new it certainly is good enough now.
 
Non detergent oil was all that was ever used. If you change the motor will smoke and use oil. Less detergent in oil the better for Ford 6l diesels. Been there.
 
1923 Gleaner,
The oil filter for that model year was originally a stack of felt washers. When you turned off the lower canister plug, a rod popped out and reversed the oil flow through the felt stack. That was how the filter was cleaned. Later on they removed the reverser valve and used a canister filled with 'cotton waste'. Most people just used rags in the filter basket. Later on Purolator had Wix manufacture a disposable filter for this job. The original part number was 1; yes that was the part number. Your tractor may have any one of these setups in it, as most were converted through the years. The #KE5905 canister filter was 3.812"OD by 0.820"ID and 8.688" tall. If someone put on a power plant unit; the filter is an inch and a half fatter.
All of the Twin City and MM tractors that used the bolted on tall filter setup used the same #KE5905 filter. The same filter assembly was used on the F,G U, Universal, K, most power plants, and just about every model in between. The same filter assembly was used everywhere. Oliver, Hercules, International, Continental, Ajax, Brockway, and names lost to the ages used the same filter assembly. My 1968 Chicago Pneumatic compressor uses two of the same filters in the compressor section.
Around 2008 the decision was made to stop manufacture of these filters. Twenty years before that, all of the filters of that model were being made one company and everyone just slapped their label on that filter. Wix called it a #51111, NAPA called it a 1111, and everyone did the same. NAPA, Wix, and others now sell a Chinese sock filter that NAPA calls a #7511 for thirty bucks. There are also others that are having a paper filter brought in from Mexico. I have several cases of the old NAPA #1111 and #1108 left, but I just use my #60A23 and #60A32 adapters and spin on a modern filters. A modern filter is many times better than the old canister filters with the balled up burlap string in a can.
As for oil; I personally use 15w40 diesel oil in my tractors. I use that oil for everything from push mowers and up. Be warned that the modern oil will start removing the crud left behind by that SB grade non-detergent stuff. Have a few #FE45A gaskets on hand to clean out the sump in the oil pan. I normally need to do the deed about three times when making the switch to real oil. Expect the rings to start loosening up and oil consumption to cut back drastically when real oil hits the rings. The minimum pressure on those GE engines is fifteen pounds and MM called for 25 pounds pressure on a warm engine.
I have several FTAs and the parts books. Call me anytime, seven two four six two eight seven three one zero if you want some immoral support.
Happy motoring.
 
This is why the hobby is dying and our Nation is heading toward the trash heap of history just like Rome.

Keep Antique tractors antique. If you desire spin on filters and "better oil" then go to a 1960's tractor. I know Charlie is way smarter than the men at Twin City who designed the engines or Drake who drilled the first oil well, Rockefeller who had Standard Oil. Charlie could have told Rocky to put some soap in the oil!

My FTA has never had detergent oil in it since new and as long as I live it never will. My uncle bought the tractor new in 1935 and we are just stupid Kansas Wheat farmers who never knew better!
 
I switched my u to 15w40. You are correct for the first oil change but after that it cleared up and works good now. That said i used it so everything of mine uses the same. If I had stuck with SAE 30 non detergent I'm sure it would work fine.
 
Absolutely true, I have now seen it for myself. A week ago I put in detergent 30wt
and yesterday I drained the oil, it was black like diesel oil and thin. I put in 40wt
non-detergent and a filter and ran it awhile, three cylinders cleared up with one still
being stubborn, i'll probably have to pull that piston and see what the rings are like.
I'm supposing stuck rings were the culprit but just want to make sure.
Thanks for all the help.
 
Actually, I drained the oil out last weekend and put in 40 weight non detergent. Smoking is getting less and
I had to up the pressure adjustment, also put in the sock filter available. The week old oil I drained out
was black and thin, looked like diesel oil. I don't know guys, all I know is what happens as it happens, I
did notice the engine was pretty filthy inside, black and gunk, must have not had an oil change in quite a while.
Things are looking up.
 
It is possible but that is exactly what happened with my u as well.after a couple oil changes the crankcase gets cleaned out and it's fine.
 

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