J.A.R

Member
Got injection pump installed and timed to 9* before TDC on my M670 but boy o boy does it start hard. Just wondering what I missed cuz it takes me at least an hour to get it to go almost seems like it loses prime. When I first go to give I a cranking it smokes white and fills the shop immediately but it won't even pop once. Once I get it running and she warms up for abit it runs perfect all smoke goes away and has good power.
 
(quoted from post at 14:57:34 03/11/18) Got injection pump installed and timed to 9* before TDC on my M670 but boy o boy does it start hard. Just wondering what I missed cuz it takes me at least an hour to get it to go almost seems like it loses prime. When I first go to give I a cranking it smokes white and fills the shop immediately but it won't even pop once. Once I get it running and she warms up for abit it runs perfect all smoke goes away and has good power.

What shape are you batteries, cables and starter in? If they turn slow it can take forever to fire. Not sure the temp where you are but a lot of mm diesels like a shot of ether if someone walks by with a ice cream cone.
 

Lol I think I'm finding that out. But ya I try not to use either cuz I know what it can do but I spose a little snuff of it can't hurt it too bad. It's 40* right now in this part of Wisconsin. Just didn't think that would be a problem for it. I got the block heater plugged in now I'll let it sit an cook for awhile and see what she does. :shock:
 
Mopower the cables ain't bad and the batteries are new 950 CCA ar zero. The starter seems to work good cuz it really rolls her over good and fast.
 
(quoted from post at 15:17:31 03/11/18) Mopower the cables ain't bad and the batteries are new 950 CCA ar zero. The starter seems to work good cuz it really rolls her over good and fast.

If you haven’t you could check your intake and exhaust valve clearances also. I now that my g706 would not fire at 40 without a huff or two of ether.
 

I retourqed the heads yesterday an adjusted valves after I torqued em thought book said .10 intake and .15 exhaust for "hot". Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
(quoted from post at 15:25:05 03/11/18)
I retourqed the heads yesterday an adjusted valves after I torqued em thought book said .10 intake and .15 exhaust for "hot". Correct me if I'm wrong.

My book agrees with the .010 and .015
 
White exhaust smoke means there's fuel, but not enough heat to burn it. My 705 I had always needed help below sixty degrees, but ran well warmed up. Playing with the timing might help to see if it likes something better, but don't hold your breath. I repaired a 670 pump last summer, engine was not the best shape and it needed an ether shot at seventy degrees. Another trick that might help, crank the engine with the fuel off ten to fifteen seconds before turning the fuel on. Get some cylinder heat built up first BEFORE the fuel is injected.
 

Thanks for the tip on cranking her first before giving it fuel never thought of that. Another ? I got is how long should a guy run it at idle before shutting it off. I no these heads are very fragile and I don't need an 2 crack again.
 
(quoted from post at 16:44:06 03/11/18) Another trick that might help, crank the engine with the fuel off ten to fifteen seconds before turning the fuel on. Get some cylinder heat built up first BEFORE the fuel is injected.

Never thought of that. Will have to try it this spring.
 
My GVI and 705 both need just a wiff of ether. I don't even spray it directly in the air cleaner, just of to the side so all they get are a little of the fumes and that's all they take. But if it's under about 50 out the GVI is plugged in or then it does take a couple of direct shots of ether.
 
(quoted from post at 16:55:46 03/11/18)
Thanks for the tip on cranking her first before giving it fuel never thought of that. Another ? I got is how long should a guy run it at idle before shutting it off. I no these heads are very fragile and I don't need an 2 crack again.

I would think a few minutes or so after a load. Just don’t want to shut down while super hot.
 
Just redid motor in M5. Starts bellow freezing with ether. Have to move it out of shop
right away as can't see. I usually plug it in and they start little better.
We had to use ether even in summer on all our MM's once it got below 60 F. Just the way
they are designed. Have heard some started better than others. None of mine! U diesels, 206
diesels 336,425,504 all need a blast of ether. My 585 is a better starter.
 
I looked back on your posts and read you overhauled the engine and are having some hard start problems.I ran into a similar problem on a G1000 once, if you had the blocks
off the crank case what block gaskets did you use? The ones that come in the gasket kits are to thick they lower your compression pressure dramatically, the piston should
be flush or a little above the top of the block. I wish they would put the correct block gasket in there for the diesel application. Hope this helps. Bob
 

Ya I did use the gaskets supplied with the kit. Where could a guy get the "right" gaskets and what thickness are they suppose to be. Thanks
 
I used the mylar thin gaskets. Didn't make much difference on cold starting.I just plug it
in and starts a lot easier. Copper head gaskets also will lower compression but minimual.
 
At 40 it's not likely to start on its own.
A good starting MM diesel should go at 50.

One thing is don't over fuel it when
thanking. Only open the throttle to barely
an idle. Too much fuel and they won't
light.
 

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