Priming the G1000

minniemo705 · Mar 2, 2018

Having trouble priming this thing. The pump is pumping because there is diesel in the return lines on back of the injectors, but I'm not getting any out of where I've cracked open the lines on top of the injectors. I know my 705, which has the same pump, is a bear to prime- it took over 2 hours of cranking and jumping to get it to prime the 2 times I stupidly ran it out. I haven't been able to crank on this one very steady because of time and weather and I don't want to burn up the starter, but does someone have a trick to this or do I just need to be patient? Also the tank is only a quarter full, should I fill it so gravity is forcing more into the pump to get a prime? Just seems to be running out the line kinda slow. The book says to have plenty of fuel in the tank when priming so I'm wondering if I should quit being lazy and carry more fuel into the shop and fill the thing up.

Dieseltech · Mar 2, 2018

Fill the tank with more fuel, so the injection pump won't have to work so hard getting the air out. My 705 I had bled easier with the tank at least half full. Question, when did the engine/injection pump last run? If it's been awhile there MAY be internal parts stuck inside from setting with stale fuel. I repair lots of pumps with stuck internal parts, setting a year or more almost guarantees it with todays fuel. ESPECIALLY if bio diesel is used..

53ZBU · Mar 2, 2018

I've had the best luck towing ours to bleed them, usually take about twice around the farm to bleed out and start to fire, I know where you are coming from because my 1050 with a 3 speed can't be towed to bleed and I also spent half a day and thought the starter was going melt before it finally bleed enough to fire, keep after it eventually it will start

fdt860 · Mar 2, 2018

(quoted from post at 11:26:12 03/02/18) I've had the best luck towing ours to bleed them, usually take about twice around the farm to bleed out and start to fire, I know where you are coming from because my 1050 with a 3 speed can't be towed to bleed and I also spent half a day and thought the starter was going melt before it finally bleed enough to fire, keep after it eventually it will start

You can Google diesel bulb priming pump. Rubber thing that cost about 5 to 15 bucks. 5 min to install and have a check valve inside.
That s what I want to put on my G6.

Sodak farmer · Mar 2, 2018

On the White 2-150 I always made sure there was plenty of fuel in the tank and then bleed filters. Then I would open the pump bleed screw and let it sit for couple hours. Seemed to help quite a bit. Also make sure cap is off the tank.

Sodak farmer · Mar 2, 2018

On the White 2-150 I always made sure there was plenty of fuel in the tank and then bleed filters. Then I would open the pump bleed screw and let it sit for couple hours. Seemed to help quite a bit. Also make sure cap is off the tank.

minniemo705 · Mar 2, 2018

Ok, thanks for the replies. I'm going to go with patience and these suggestions first before I worry about the pump. It has sat for awhile but definitely never had biodiesel in it. I think I'm just getting frustrated cause it took 7 months for the machine shop to bore and hone the center set of jugs. The tractor had had an overhaul and was parked when antifreeze ended up in the oil. Well it wasn't the head like the guy I got it from thought it was. I got it last march and started working on it in June. Ordered the used block from All States Ag Parts the first of July and had it at the machinist the third week in July. Got it back the end of January after many calls and finally losing my patience with him. He was recommended as an excellent machinist but no one mentioned how dang slow he was. He did do a beautiful job, just slow. I could have had this all done last fall when it was warm out if not for the wait. Oh well, lesson learned. I have 2 U's to have rebored but they will go to a different shop. So I think that's the reason this is starting to frustrate me. I'm cold and want results.

TomInMO · Mar 2, 2018

When priming injector pumps on our G1350s we put a blow gun on an air hose. Get a friend to help and apply just a little air pressure in the fuel tank through the filler tube using a rag to seal around the blow gun. Be careful to only slightly pressurize the tank. Open all the bleed valves and get a good stream, close the valves and then continue a little pressure in the tank while cranking to bleed injectors. This makes a big difference moving stubborn air pockets through the line, filter and pump.

Dieseltech · Mar 3, 2018

Keep trying, but 7 months is still enough time for the plungers and valves to stick from lack of use. Just repaired and returned a JD 5020 pump that had stuck plungers inside, along with metering and delivery valves stuck tight also..

Priming the G1000

minniemo705

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Dieseltech

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53ZBU

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fdt860

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Sodak farmer

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Sodak farmer

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minniemo705

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TomInMO

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Dieseltech

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