minneapolis moline D-400 plow questions

carvel minne farmer

Well-known Member
good evening all, found a mm D400 4 /16 plow on kiji tonight about an hour north of me. missing 3 coulters, pics aren't real great sitting in snow, but looks in decent shape from what I can see, looking on line I found one other on tractor house and it doesn/t look that it would take to much to convert to 3 bottom, as I think that a 4/16 would be a full load for the m5, would appreciate any feedback from members who have one or used one. how well it performs, problems or issues? parts availability? thank you for your help guys
 
MM ploughs were made so one bottom could be added or removed. D300 is a 3 or 4 bottom. D500
is a 5 or 6. Were made from 64-70. Thinking later ones were Oliver.
 
(quoted from post at 06:24:20 12/03/17) MM ploughs were made so one bottom could be added or removed. D300 is a 3 or 4 bottom. D500
is a 5 or 6. Were made from 64-70. Thinking later ones were Oliver.
thank you G.B. so mm continued with a modern design of the af 2/3 3/4 set up. I'm thinking to set this one up as a 3 bottom for the m5
 
We used to pull JD 4 - 14's but mainly 14 ft set of Noble blades.The Nobles were too much
for M5.
 
Depending on soil conditions, 3 bottoms are a decent load for an M5. Ive pulled
4-16 semi-mounted plow with my M670 Super in ground that was once over with a
disc ripper and it was still enough of a load. I would rather pull a slightly
smaller plow as you have a little wiggle room for the tough spots.
 
(quoted from post at 12:28:48 12/04/17) Depending on soil conditions, 3 bottoms are a decent load for an M5. Ive pulled
4-16 semi-mounted plow with my M670 Super in ground that was once over with a
disc ripper and it was still enough of a load. I would rather pull a slightly
smaller plow as you have a little wiggle room for the tough spots.
that is my thinking alan, in the manuals and online you see them rated for a 4 /16 plow but changing the d-300 4 bottom to a 3 bottom for plowing down hay fields some of which haven't been worked in years, I know it's going to be heavy sod condtions and like you said i'll have some wiggle room for the tougher spots and going uphill. if it's to hard in spots with the 3 bottom I can always come home and hook up the af 2/16 for those. what my plan is alan is to pick up a couple more smaller fields, the county here has land designated park reserve that local farmers put their name in for these are usually smaller parcels 2 to 10 acres that the farmers hay.
 
I'm assuming that's 1st high range about 3.1 mph according to tractor data. 2nd low would be about 2.5 mph 3rd low would be 3.1 or the same as 1st high. for pulling a full load would I be better off in low or direct/high?
 
Tire size is going to change the ground speed. M5 standards used 34's or 30's not 38's.
Ours had 34's. M5 would be rated as 4-5 plow tractor. U was a 3-4 plow. M5 20 hp more than
a U. Our soils are more brown/black soil not clay like in some areas. We also don't have to
plough 8 inches usually 4-5 is lots. Thinking 1st is too slow. 2nd around 3 and 3 rd 4 mph.
Top speed was 12. Less torque shifting the better as they are a weakness. They uses the
old springs and roller setup not the Spraque clutch like 670's.
 
I try to pull in direct or high range. I have heard that as long as it connects
in low range it will pull fine but have never done it that way. We usually plow
about 6 to 8" deep here in black/clay soil. Sometimes if dry it can plow like
cement. MM had a chart in the later 1960s called "High Speed Farming" The idea
was to take a slightly smaller implement and travel at a faster speed. There
isnt many things worse than if you can pull your load.....all day long.
 
good morning G.B., around here most go with a 6 inch plow depth, that's what I set the depth with my 2/14 on my case 310b when I plowed down the field here at home and that was working the 310 hard. the field had not been plowed in over 30 years. will stay in high range. gb. has anyone upgraded a m5 torgue to the 670 style sprauge clutch?
 
thank you alan as both you and gb. said stay out of low with the torgue as it's a weak point on the m5, so will run in direct, either 1st or 2nd the first few passes will be trial and error and adjust, the tire size on my m5 is 18.4 x 34 with weights but no calcium. will get the plow depth set for 6 inches and find a speed and throttle setting that's rolling the furrows over, burying the trash and not stressing either the tractor or the plow. in my 50 plus years of being around and operating equipment running at high speeds will usually result in getting to a wreck faster and cost a lot more to fix the damage! an old equipment operater I oiled for back in the 60's taught me that being smooth was far more important than being fast! and just let the machine do the work it was designed for, don't slam it or jam it.
 
The torque can be upgraded. Am thinking was a Super changeup,along with the better
steering,gauges etc. The old roller is not a bad system but if not maintained can be very
costly.

Waiting for rebuild kit for my M5 hydraulic pump. Sure runs good.
 
good evening G.B. where would be a good place to look for parts for the d300, it needs shins, shares and landsides, the molboards look ok, after getting it unloaded I hooked up the m5, cleaned the hyd. couplers plugged them in, lifted the plow and moved it out the back for the winter. I got a lead on 4.5 acre field about a mile west of me that has been in hay for the last 18 to 20 years, so if it works out will plow it down next fall and summer follow it the next summer apparently full of thistle and weeds.
 
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good morning G.B. I called westward in reddeer this morning and was told they are a wholesaler to the farm dealerships, and to go see my local caseih or agro dealer so will stop in and talk to them. thank you for the help gb and you have a great day.
 

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