My first tractor split

Scout2008 · Oct 17, 2017

Joepro and I split my 69 M670 Saturday. First time I have split a
tractor, and thanks to Joepro it went well. Both the fly wheel and
pressure plate were grooved pretty good. Looking forward to getting the
fly wheel turned, and putting the new parts in.

Alan K · Oct 17, 2017

I forgot you had an M670 Super. Nice pictures. I have an M5 I need to put a clutch in.

Scout2008 · Oct 17, 2017

It was new to me this spring. Just had hydraulic pump rebuilt, and found the clutch was slipping which was an unexpected fix.

molinegb · Oct 17, 2017

Always come apart better than they go back together. Done lots of similar including 4020,U302 and Js3's. Did a Massey 97/G706. That is more of a challenge due to more weight. Done Twin City 17-28's and 12-20's they are real easy. On older tractors they had a one piecebelly frame and motor just slid in on frame. On your 670 you will have to use long aligning bolts to start into clutch spline. You then will have to align pto sahft int flywheel unless you have alignment shaft.. I am doing one in next couple of hours.

molinegb · Oct 17, 2017

M5 was in two pieces at 5:30. It is now back together,bolted up. I use loader and two chains.

Fufu602 · Oct 17, 2017

That's what I have to do to son inlaw's 1969 M670. Tractor looks to be in the same shape as yours. Hope to get to it this winter sometime. Matthew

carvel minne farmer · Oct 17, 2017

scout how long did it take you to split the tractor? I have 2 m5's and the parts tractor i'll be restoring to running shape apparently has a bad clutch in it that needs replacing. I'll be copying the rolling stand you have under the engine for mine, those are steel wheels I see on yours how do you flip them from rolling away to sitting out of the way just on the legs?

molinegb · Oct 18, 2017

Was there lots of oil on clutch? Looks like rear seal needs replaced.

Alan K · Oct 18, 2017

Im betting they just blocked the front and rolled the rear away with the floor
jack. At Vo-Tech we always blocked the front and rolled the rear away as it is
usually more stable to move than a front end.

Scout2008 · Oct 18, 2017

No, not much oil. There was only a small amount in the bottom, and most was grease from the throw out bearing.

Scout2008 · Oct 18, 2017

It took about 4 hours from start to split (figuring in stripping down the tractor). Joe pro,brought the stand. It was a pre made stand he modified to
bolt on the bottom holes, and added the angle iron for support. The better piece is the one he had made to fit on the floor jack that then bolts to
where the front drawbar mount is. Once it's bolted on the handle is to the rear, and you just raise it to hold the rear end. We then rolled the rear
away from the front. The wheels are up on the front stand because they make it too tall if they are pointed down. So we reversed them, and
screwed them down to hold the front. I'm sure with practice we could do,it in a lot less time.

carvel minne farmer · Oct 18, 2017

thank you scout, that explains it pretty clear, set up the tractor so the front stays stationary and roll the back away, then make a set of long dowl bolts to help guide it all back tighter. scout is the rear engine seal accesible to change out at that time?

carvel minne farmer · Oct 18, 2017

one more request scout when you've got the tractor back togther can you post a pic of joepro's jack stand plate ? thank you. and I see the jack stand at the end of the bell housing is it nessesary to support that end as well when your moving it. thanks scout

WNY Molines · Oct 18, 2017

How I did mine for the Amplitorc repair. I used this cart and frame that I had made for splitting a ford 7000 and it actually worked for our 670 too. In the future, I can make different frames for different tractors if needed.
<image src="http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/mvphoto4877.jpg"/>

molinegb · Oct 18, 2017

Done many and always regretted doing rear seal and torque while it is apart. Especially on the older T/A's. In 60's we made stands for M5 as it was apart all the time for clutch and T/A.

Alan K · Oct 18, 2017

The rear seals on the 336 engines are still a felt type seal as far as I know.
They cant be replaced when the tractor is split. They are serviced with the oil
pan removed and the rear main bearing cap.

Scout2008 · Oct 18, 2017

The jack stand is just for support while it sits waiting to go back together. Just trying to be safe in case the hydraulic jack fails.

Scout2008 · Oct 18, 2017

Read what Alan says below, and then zoom on on the pic of the fly wheel area....you can see red RTV where someone has resealed it in the
past.

tractorguy1951 · Oct 18, 2017

If you want more practice,I have a 302 that needs a clutch and paint. Your tractors and shop look sharp.

carvel minne farmer · Oct 19, 2017

(quoted from post at 10:58:42 10/18/17) The rear seals on the 336 engines are still a felt type seal as far as I know.
They cant be replaced when the tractor is split. They are serviced with the oil
pan removed and the rear main bearing cap.

that's the same way you rr a seal on the old f-163 continental flat head engines in welders, is the felt seal 1 piece or 2 ?

Ray · Oct 20, 2017

That pad clutch can mess up a pressure plate and flywheel pretty fast if it slips.I always put back the original style clutch.

My first tractor split

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Similar threads