310b case raking hay and the moline m5 baling

carvel minne farmer

Well-known Member
good evening all, got the m5 hooked up to the baler, and raked with the 310b case, baled with the m5, left knotter still giving us fits! still knotting on one string only?? :? right knotter works flawless and the m5 performed like a champ, torgue and hp. it just plays with the baler, I now understand what Harold ment when he said it was the nicest baling tractor he ever drove. the live pto and all that torque make baling a breeze. the case 1845c hauled the bales into the hay shed tonight. I have a farm equipment mechanic coming tomorrow afternoon to set up the left knotter and get it working right. oh one more thing my great idea to put a trailer hich and ball set up (don't do it) it blew off on the first uphill right turn :oops: put the old hitch and pin set up back on no more issues!! john.
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John which string doesn't have the knot. The one over the top of the bale or the one brought up by the needle? Over the top
is the twine disk tension problem (twine is pulling out), the one by the needle is tucker finger miss or hay dog not holding
hay after the plunger head retreats.
 
(quoted from post at 10:36:22 09/07/17) John which string doesn't have the knot. The one over the top of the bale or the one brought up by the needle? Over the top
is the twine disk tension problem (twine is pulling out), the one by the needle is tucker finger miss or hay dog not holding
hay after the plunger head retreats.
the twine over the top of the bale but I have jack a farm equipment mechanic coming this afternoon, just now cleaning out the baler and getting it ready for him
 
(quoted from post at 10:36:22 09/07/17) John which string doesn't have the knot. The one over the top of the bale or the one brought up by the needle? Over the top
is the twine disk tension problem (twine is pulling out), the one by the needle is tucker finger miss or hay dog not holding
hay after the plunger head retreats.
you where right roger, but what had happened way back in the balers history was someone had broken the twine disc tensioner plate and had grabbed one off a 14 or 24 t baler and swapped it out!!! it is about 1/4 inch shorter a 1/4 inch narrower and built thinner as well. it took jack about 15 minutes of rolling the baler to spot it!! we would have adjusted till the cows came home and never got it to tie properly!! jack also adjusted the distance between the needles and twine discs, and the twine disc timing!! the new proper tensioner plate will be at john deere in Edmonton tomorrow morning at 9:00 am and I will be standing there with the old (wrong disc) and get back here and have jack finish setting it up, run a few bales and hopefully get all the bales done and in the hay shed before tomorrow nights rain! there is no substitute for experience and knowledge, jacks 30 plus years of working on farm machinery was invaluable today!! I learned more in the 30 minutes jack was here than a year of me fumbling around could have done :D
 
From what I remember tucker fingers and tension and newer twine not old swollen stuff. We
used to build up tension plates with brass. On Ih was knives.
 
it is alan, I plowed it down 7 years ago in the fall, rotortilled it in the spring and then summerfollowed it all summer, every time the field started to go green with weeds etc. I'd hook up the cultivator or disc and hit it again. let the weeds come up about 2 or 3 inches and then murder them! I did this all summer and in the fall disced it and harrowed it. the next spring I cultivated and harrowed it and my neighbor andy came over and seeded it down with alfalfa and timothy. I believe giving the land a year of rest and murdering the weeds has really paid dividends, we've had bumper hay crops each year since and no weeds to speak of. I'm not a believer in continuous cropping and pouring on chemicals and fertilizers, let the land rest a year, clean up the weeds. will be looking for a manure spreader and a source of manure (natural fertilizer)
 
we got it roger! picked up the new disc tension plate this am jack came out installed set up disc tension, notter trip timing, hand turned and it tied and cut both sides like it should, hooked up the m5 and ran 3 ties through all 3 text book. out into the field and punched out 3 bales perfectly. looking forward to this afternoon getting the field baled and in the shed. I learned more in 1 hour working with jack on how to set up a baler than any manuals could ever tell you :D its amazing how well they work with the correck parts installed. the jd. dealer confirmed that was a plate from a 14t baler! and I think that was why it was sold so cheap!
 
(quoted from post at 11:34:54 09/08/17) we got it roger! picked up the new disc tension plate this am jack came out installed set up disc tension, notter trip timing, hand turned and it tied and cut both sides like it should, hooked up the m5 and ran 3 ties through all 3 text book. out into the field and punched out 3 bales perfectly. looking forward to this afternoon getting the field baled and in the shed. I learned more in 1 hour working with jack on how to set up a baler than any manuals could ever tell you :D its amazing how well they work with the correck parts installed. the jd. dealer confirmed that was a plate from a 14t baler! and I think that was why it was sold so cheap!
the hay is all baled and in the hay shed! beat the rain, the baler worked great did 155 bales in 45 minutes never missed a knot, all the bales look good uniform and tight, halfway through heard a bang, stopped went back and found the big bale shute spring broken :shock: loosened off the other spring, put a ratchet strap on the broken side and retightened the good side and finished baling :eek:
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John, the spring that broke is what helps determine the density of the bales. More pressure from the springs, the heavier
the bale.
 
(quoted from post at 19:12:41 09/08/17) John, the spring that broke is what helps determine the density of the bales. More pressure from the springs, the heavier
the bale.
yes and I did notice the bale densitys was different after the spring broke, after I got done baling I blew out and cleaned the baler and greased and I will be changing out both springs this spring, the other side is probably just as old and fatiuqe, the break looked like metal fatiuqe . going from 2 days to bale 2 acres to 45 minutes with the baler set up right and the right parts in it and sitting on the m5 with a live pto and more than enough torque and hp. today was enjoyable not punishment :D the jd baler is now ready for winter, tarped in and under cover for the winter. I want to thank you roger and the other members for all their help and advice this year has been a steep learning curve made a lot easier with all your help. john.
 
John,

Spray the knotter parts with "Fluid Film", especially all the shiny parts. Rust can cause you problems next year.

Glad it went well!
 
(quoted from post at 11:04:15 09/09/17) John,

Spray the knotter parts with "Fluid Film", especially all the shiny parts. Rust can cause you problems next year.

Glad it went well!
I did roger, cleaned out the baler, blew out everything with air hose, wiped it all down, sprayed chains and bale chamber with fluid film, sprayed down knotter assemblys with white lithium grease, greased all the nipples, tarped it all in and parked it under cover. now making a list of parts for next springs repairs ( 2 bale tensioner springs) so far. john
 
(quoted from post at 19:12:41 09/08/17) John, the spring that broke is what helps determine the density of the bales. More pressure from the springs, the heavier
the bale.
called john deere this morning roger, and the price of the new bale tension springs is $81.00 each not to bad, will order 2 new ones to have on hand for going through the baler this spring and getting it ready. I thought of going to the tractor wreckers and trying to pic up used ones and then thought about the amount of corrosion that was inside the spring that broke! then i'll have the peace of mind hitting the field.
 

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