the m5 hooked to the 336 j.d. baler

carvel minne farmer

Well-known Member
now that's a far better match, a tractor with a live pto and more than enough h.p. to handle the baler just brought baler out of the shop after setting the tucker fingers and notters, greasing and cycling the baler to check timing and clearences. all looks good now just have to wait for the hay to dry (rain last night) then rake and bale.
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We used our M5 on a IH 37 baler. Worked good with torq in tough spots. Later we used Massey
97 FWa on 346. Even not lpto Massey just idled the bales out, baler had no choice! MM U had
580 pto thinking G705/6/97. Did also 2-300 bales a day and I was on skid stooking them!
Times have changed,
 
(quoted from post at 17:31:08 09/03/17) Looks like you took the equal angle hitch off and drive line angles from tractor to baler do not look good!
I got the baler last year just like you see it,there was no equal angle hitch set up on it?? what do's it look like rodger and how do's it work? I am assuming it would lift the baler tongue so the tonque and pto shaft would be more parallel? i'll get on google and see if I can find one and how to set them up. thanks rodger.
 
on another note on the baler hitch rodger I had an older farmer drop by this afternoon and was telling me about putting a 2 " trailer ball on the drawbar and a 2" hitch on the baler tonque to take out that plunger slap you get with the regular drawbar and pin setup? have you ever heard of someone doing it? john.
 
(quoted from post at 16:36:51 09/03/17) We used our M5 on a IH 37 baler. Worked good with torq in tough spots. Later we used Massey
97 FWa on 346. Even not lpto Massey just idled the bales out, baler had no choice! MM U had
580 pto thinking G705/6/97. Did also 2-300 bales a day and I was on skid stooking them!
Times have changed,
there is no easy job when your square baling gb that's for sure, but I'm sure hoping this round will go a lot easier with the m5 on the baler. and picking up the bales go's quick as I use my case 1845c skidsteer with a 4' x 8' pallet that will hold 20 bales, I have about 8 pallets and bring them right into the shed drop 1st pallet pic up next and go out for another 20 bring it in and so on.
 
Is that one of them out of the tree's? I never had that good of luck with anything that
hadn't been in use and kept up. My M-602 had some coolant problems and after using for a
few months started knocking & ruined the crankshaft before I stopped. It had antifreeze in
the oil from cracked heads & water pump seal gone and in a short time bearings were shot
even though it ran great. I would watch the oil levels in engine & gear cases(water in
bottom of cases can keep levels looking good) & coolant levels real close for a
while.cleddy
 
(quoted from post at 06:26:20 09/04/17) Is that one of them out of the tree's? I never had that good of luck with anything that
hadn't been in use and kept up. My M-602 had some coolant problems and after using for a
few months started knocking & ruined the crankshaft before I stopped. It had antifreeze in
the oil from cracked heads & water pump seal gone and in a short time bearings were shot
even though it ran great. I would watch the oil levels in engine & gear cases(water in
bottom of cases can keep levels looking good) & coolant levels real close for a
while.cleddy
that is the first one Harold cut out of the trees, see pics of the poplar tree still wrapped around the throttle shaft in post bringing the m5 home, I drained the engine oil and filter checked the tranny and diff oils after driving around both still full of clean oil, no sign of water anywhere, greased, drained and cleaned fuel tank, installed new sediment bowl, completely rewired, new switches, altenator, my wife rebuilt the seat new foam and vinal covers, complete with a formula one racing cover!! as soon as the baling is done it will be coming in the shop for a bath, another service, including draining the tranny and diff. the engine purrs smooth 80 lbs. oil pressure. no odd sounds or vibrations, plan is to do a diesel flush of both tranny and diff and then refill with clean oil. we will see what comes out when we pull the drain plugs on the tranny and diff, but so far everything looks good cleddy hoping for the best but expecting surprises. both rear wheel seals show signs of leaking and will be done this winter. so far so good! :D
 
Wrote a nice long reply and it disappeared.

Get the operators manual and it will show the equal angle hitch and how to hook up. Difficult to hook up.

Look at the newer balers and see what they have, pin and ball.

Roger
 
(quoted from post at 09:40:19 09/04/17) Wrote a nice long reply and it disappeared.

Get the operators manual and it will show the equal angle hitch and how to hook up. Difficult to hook up.

Look at the newer balers and see what they have, pin and ball.

Roger
I am going to see if I can find my trailer hitch and put a ball on the draw bar and attach the hitch portion to the tonque of the baler, I was looking at my baler manual this morning and it sure looks like a complicated rig up! there is quite a difference between the height of the draw bar and pto shaft between the case 310b and the m5. im thinking the ball and hitch set up will work a lot better. john
 
(quoted from post at 18:08:21 09/04/17) I was looking at the horizontal line with the sharp angle up to the tractor.
I went out and measured the distance from the draw bar to the center of the pto shaft, 14" on the m5 and 6" on the 310b but from the center u joint on the baler to the pto on the case it had a worse angle down than it has going up to the m5. going to try tomorrow to pic up 2" ball with long enough bolt to go through the draw bar, the baler portion of the hitch will fit perfectly over the tongue on the baler, should lift it up about 2 more inches and give us a better angle. thank you for your help roger.
 
installed the ball and trailer hich on the m5 and the baler. on the first round on a uphill right corner it poped off (pin still locked on) and pulled pto shaft, tonque dropped into the dirt :oops: a 1/2 hour later, the old hitch and pin set up back on and no more issues. ah well live and learn as usual the hard way :roll:
 
The ASAE standards for all pto applications, the dimension from the end of the pto shaft to the center of the hitch pin hole
is 14" for 540 pto shaft!
 
cleddy one of the things I did 4 weeks before I went to pick up the m5 was to take out a gallon of atf and I pulled the plugs, poured in a quart into each cylinder put the plugs back in and let it sit and soak for 4 weeks before we started it. I believe the atf soak helps the rings, cylinders, pistons. when we went to start it we pulled the plugs, spun over the engine, cleaned it up (very little oil came out the plug holes) put the plugs back in and barely a puff of smoke came out when it fired up. I use this same trick on the older flathead continental engines in Lincoln welders that haven't been run in years. seems to work very well. john
 
When I worked at MM, we used that "trick" on stuff taken from the 'bone yard' south of the tracks and factory at Hopkins to free up engines and other things. Type "A" ATF was the trick an old yard guy told me and showed me how it worked. I have used it successfully ever since.
 

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