TC JTS questions

I don't know a thing about MM/TC tractors at all so I thought I'd pose a couple of my questions in my own thread.

I recently picked up a 37 TC JTS on steel with the original Waukesha engine. It's rather complete, and in decent condition. Engine is stuck and so appears to be the clutch. I pulled the plugs yesterday and used a scope to see the bore's which appear to be in good condition. I'm going put some atf/Marvel Mystery oil/diesel fuel in the cylinders to encourage them to free themselves (I've had good luck with that) and check the valves to see they aren't stuck as well. Once free, pull sump cover from pan, remove oil/sludge. Hopefully all goes well.

Here are my questions, which aren't super important but I'm wondering.

How tall is the stack supposed to be on the air cleaner? Mine appears to have been cut off at one point and they put it back together with a hose. I know of a JT sitting in the weeds and the air cleaner on it is really tall above the radiator. The JTS sits above by only a few inches. If that's all the higher it's supposed to be I was going to weld it back together.

Is there supposed to be a breather through the hood? My valve cover does not have a hole for it but there is a bung of sorts casted into it and there is a hole in my hood. The previously mentioned JT is the same way.

What is the proper Magneto? What is installed is a fairbanks morse. The plug wires come out in a V position from the top of it. The JT has a different mag and the plug wires come out the end of the Mag. The Mag on the JTS has been shimmed on the outward side with a washer and a nail. (Farmerized) :lol:

That's all I got so far. I'm sure there will be more.

Thanks

I remembered another and it won't let me edit my original post.

Do the steel wheels tractors lockout 5th gear or not have it? I know in the Farmall H's there was a longer bolt that would lock it out when they were steel wheels.

That's the only gear I couldn't get it shifted into and I'm hoping It's locked out. I wouldn't ever want it moving at a fast speed on steel wheels.

Mine

Nice JTS. Always wanted a one.

My dad mentioned his brothers ZTU was locked out of 5th and that was originally
steel wheels that were converted to rubber. The ZAs I dont think had a way to
lock anything out, it just mentioned in the operators manual "5th gear, not to
be used with steel wheels"

According to parts book there were 2 valve breather groups,group 1 center of cylinder head cover, group 2,flanged elbow and pipe breather,there are 15 specific engine serial numbers and then all engines after 408262. Correct mag is F-M RV4. There are 2 air cleaner groups listed, sn 551638 and under,and sn 551639 and up,no mention of intake length,I've seen around the shows at all different lengths probably adjusted to fit locations and conditions as needed. Instruction manual says in regard to 5 gear and steel "Whenever a J tractor originally shipped with steel wheels is later equipped with rubber tires and brake equalizer, the fifth or high speed can be released in the following manner: 1. Remove the hand hole cover from the top of the transmission. 2. Screw the nut( attached to tag in tool box) on pin in rear of left hand gear shifter shaft. 3. Pull pin out of shifter shaft. 4. Replace handhole cover. NOTE:Extreme caution must be exercised not to drop the nut or pin into the transmission case. " Best of luck finding that nut with the tag LOL,they are a fun little tractor I hope you enjoy it,good luck.

Thanks.

Based on your information mine has the elbow breather and the correct magneto.

I'll probably just weld the tube back together and leave it the length it is once it's done.

That explains 5th gear, good to hear. Maybe i'll take a nut and put a tag on it that says "JTS 5th gear, do not lose" and put it in the tool box. Add some confusion for the next guy... 8)

I added the free the pistons mixture to the cylinders. Now I patiently wait. Probably work on unsticking that clutch cone thing, check the valves, and clean up the carburetor this weekend.

I have a JTU with the Waukesha engine. It was stuck. After putting diesel fuel in the cylinders and dragging it around the yard it broke
loose. When I got it running it had no oil pressure. Well what happened was the oil pump was rusted solid and it stripped the oil pump gear
and drive gear off the cam shaft.

My suggestion is pull the pan and make sure the oil pump is free. It would of saved me a lot of grief.

Well, The engine is now loose. As I hoped, it wasn't that stuck. The Magneto was locked up though. There was rust between the magnets and sides of the mag. I was able to get it apart clean up the parts lubricate other parts and get it timed internally. It now has good spark. The cone part of the clutch is loose from the shaft now but I can't get it to push the actual clutch.

Does anyone have any pointers on setting the timing? We set it to fire on impulse just after TDC. I had the little viewing cover open and I can not find anywhere a mark on the flywheel. I thought I might have seen a V but i'm not sure if that was the mark or not and I cannot find any information as to what it should look like. Cylinder number one (closest to the radiator) was set to fire about 1/16 of an inch of drop from TDC. (From what I could see through the spark plug hole. Could be less.) Hopefully it's close enough to get it to run.

I drained the oil and to my surprise it came out clean. It looks like it was just changed and I drained out the new stuff or something. I've never seen that before. I have not removed the oil filter yet. I'm somewhat baffled by the fact the coolant from the block comes through the filter housing. I don't know how it's attached but i'm guessing it's just gasket material that separates the oil from the coolant passages? I will be removing the sump plate as I could feel some crusty gunk debris through the drain hole.

Does anyone have an oil filter p/n for this?

I also need a valve cover gasket. I'll be searching for that as well.