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setting Valves on a Moline Z engine / help

W

Wes Verbal

Member
Well been tinkering with the "Z" looking at setting clearance on the valves. I know that intake is .08 and exhaust is .010, are these setting for COLD Lash ? Or HOT Lash. I was thinking if gets to hot running temp around 180* I could set valve to .013 on intake and .015 on exhaust? As if this was at HOT Lash.instead of COLD? What do you guys think and any info is big help.
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I am thinking you may be overthinking this. Even if those settings are for a hot engine, I am thinking those figures are the maximum tappet clearance when hot. Meaning, you want to be sure the valves can close fully when hot, but not have enough tappet clearance that it hammers the valve train to death.

The truth is, I probably have several engines that were set up with those clearances when assembled cold, never were adjusted hot, and they never exhibited any problems. But they were never worked to the maximum again, either.

I did have to have some rockers re-faced where they rode on the camshaft. The cam wears a groove in them eventually.
 
Yeah, ive been scratch my head a day or to on how ridiculous this is....but i set valves to .008 to .010 other day drive up roadvways pull back into shop took valves covers off after it cool off #2#4 #3 cylinders where tight with very very snug clearance etc. So re-set again. I was just a thinking if man set lash at .012 on intake and .015 or so on exhaust it should even out about right ? I mean know this is no mint Cadillac just trying to avoid burnt up valves.😯
 
I think .08. In intake and .010 on exhaust? But. Figure id got a few thousand more seeing i really cant set at hot.
 
According to I & T manual it makes a difference whether this is a ZA or ZT engine. If ZA, .008 int./.010 exh. If ZT, depends which camshaft (check engine serial number. May be necessary remove side cover to check cam part number). All settings on hot engine.
 
the spec's are usually for a hot engine. but it dont mean hot hot. just warm it up and set them. if doing the settings cold ... just add 1 or 2 thou. depending on the spec's gap, the larger the gap say .027 hot i would give 2 extra thou. this is when the engine is assembled cold. then once run you retorque the head and do the final valve adjustment to the hot spec.
 
that all depends how you set them... they will not get that tight from cold to hot. each cyl. must be set at TDC on the comprssion stroke following the firing order. then rechecked the same way.
 
Mine is a ZTN model. As far as i know just about everything on this tractor is original nothing changed or added.
 
You need to begin by determining if the engine is in a ZA or ZT. Then if ZT, which one, otherwise you're just shooting in the dark. No need to guess, info is available but you need to do homework to confirm what you have.
 
Looks like you have the late production RE engine which have same valve settings as the ZA models - .008/.010 (hot). Engines made before 1946 would need more research to determine which camshaft it has. This info is from the I & T manual. Cheers -
 
Hello again thanks much. Do you think like others have said just set it at 10 intake and 12 exhaust cold would be fine??
 
Setting it cold is risky, not knowing how much it changes when it warms up. I like to be more accurate with my own work.
 
Whole setup never was great when new. There is alot of lifter to make perfect. Many I have seen are slightly bent. Maybe reason the OEA with hydraulic lifters was designed. Done many R and Z as well as combines. Usually don't even bother with feeler gauge. Long as you can feel some clearance unless motor was TOTALLY rebuilt including cam.
Working on a GM 5 cylinder and the lifters are 1 inch long. Rockers are about the same.Z's must be 10 inches or longer.
 
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