Minneapolis moline water pump. leak.

Used tractor to pull in plough yesterday afternoon notice antifreeze coming from sweep hole atop of waterpump near grease zerk and it is dripping from bottom of pulley area?😣is there anyway to just keep using tractor like this and im sure as water is in there it will keep engine cool~~~ or does pump need rebuilt? Fluid seems fine, Might get a little low over time engine run great with no issue and pump does also.It Will leak drip or two out of weep hole. While running? And if tractor sits overnight will leak out of the bottom pulley. Any info helpful.
 
There is a reason for weephole. On a m670 or similar there is a water seal and an oil seal. If water seal is bad and weephole happened to be plugged you would have a crankcase full of antifreeze!. Your seal is probably hardened from sitting. An additive like Barsleak may solve problem temporary but eventually a new seal will be required.
 
If its coming from the weephole it shouldn't hurt anything for now ? And do you have to rebuild the pump or cant you buy a rebuilt one?
 
wes verbal,
Coolant slinging from around the pulley is not good. Fortunately Z water pumps are a piece of cake, even for hillbillies like me.
Remove the pump from the water inlet manifold. Tap out the #RE587 taper pin from the impeller. Pull off the impeller and the #RE522A seal package is inside the impeller. If the shaft wobbles; tap out the two #RE515 oilite bearings and replace them.
Make sure the pump seal face has no radial grooves. Circular grooves are okay. Never touch a file, or sandpaper, to the pump seal face. Only use a half inch expanding arbor and a high speed bit to clean up the face, if necessary. Never put oil, grease, silicone, or anything else on that seal, or face. Lube instantly ruins any pump seal.
Now install the new #RE522A seal package in the impeller and reassemble with a new pin. Personally I use a stainless pin so the next generation has no problems. Don't worry about the pulley springing back and forth. The seal spring keeps the tension on everything and you can push on the assembly and feel it move. Make sure there are no holes in the #RE521 baffle and use a new #RE520 gasket on each side of the baffle. Bolt the pump back on. Grease it. Fill her up and go stir up some dirt.
Happy motoring.
Charlie at
Moline Parts
 
You can try this, for the moment to see if it stops seeping, and give it a shot of grease while it is running (be careful). Make sure you go slow greasing it as the excess grease will shoot out the weep hole. It will come out quick so you have to keep an eye on it while you do it. As Charlie stated, they are fairly easy to rebuild, but replacing the impeller can be a challenge if yours is damaged. Does it run warm / hot at all?
 
Alan, i run it yesteday after work seem to be normal but only run it for 30 min while in driveway. As long as there is fluids in the radiator and full it should be ok right? Or does this pump have to be working to keep the engine cooled?
 
The water pump needs to be working for it to circulate the coolant enough to keep cool. 30 minutes is plenty enough time for it to run hot if it isnt working, if the temperature stayed within the normal range, Im betting your pump is working. Just make sure your temp gauge works, and you have enough coolant. I know the ZAs if you have the coolant over half full in the top of the radiator tank it will just spit it out the overflow. That makes for a mess and a waste of money. Did you happen to try a small amount of grease in the fitting? If so did it slow the leak at all?
 
Hey Alan, i run it and seem to get pretty warm ...but not sure how hot this engine usually gets... it has no temp guage just battery and oil only?? I really dont even know where you would put a temp guage on this model?😯i did notice this morning it wasnt leaking none...? Ill check it soon get in again after work today and let you know.
 
Well Alan.

Got in from work didnt see any leaks but i did open radiator cap look inside water was above the coils inside radiator but i decided to pour little more in and seem to take almost 1 quart full of coolant? There is a place right under the left front side of the ztn where radiator hose is,it has a small cast plug there can man mount a guage in that plug area ?
 
If you put in a gauge, it would go off the top of the cylinder head. Another option is this is a good excuse to buy an infrared temp gun. Good for monitoring engine temperature when breaking in or such. Charlie is a good source for water pump parts. The seals will weep until they break in.
 
Not to butt in on Chris, but I believe around 170 degrees. I thought they used to have temperature gauges available for them but they only mounted midway by the starter. Yes going off of the top of the head is the best place for a gauge. My M670 Super was running too cool when I started it yesterday so I checked the coolant temp with a temp gun. Only about 112 degrees. They come in handy.
 
Alan, well check again this morning /-: and its dripping slow out around the bottom of the pulley....? Like i said i added quart full of fluid to it then check it this morning and still doing the dripping thing around the pulley.guess going to have to pull that off and see about rebuilding it? I havent tried to grease the zerk anymore like you were talking about. If i try that do you think might stop it from leaking? Or no?
 
It is worth a try to give it a shot of grease. Doing so can slow a leak out the pulley end in some cases. The weep hole does let out anti-freeze that leaks by the seal but also serves as a place for excess grease to escape. I have found it is best to grease it as it is running and grease it slowly. Like I said, the excess grease will come out of the weep hole all at once when full. Most of the time a half a shot to one shot of grease will be plenty.
 
My 1948 ZTN has a temperature gauge located on the instrument panel. On a hot day when working the tractor, water temp sits right around 170. If your water pump isn't pumping, you'll know it. Motor will get hot pretty quick and boil over.
You really should put a temp gauge on your ZT. Easy to buy on ebay, and easy to install.
 
Here you go, Wes.
Temp on left, oil pressure on right. I think it's original, although the gauges are replacements.
47538.jpg
 
Yep this is how mine is set up... my oil
guage is on the left and battery amp guage
on right side. On the temp guage where does
the lead cap end screw in at? Does it go in
atop of the head up near the front next to
mag? Or does go on left side some place? I
did see a plug atop of the head at the front
spark plug above it,is this where it screws
in? I bought me a new guage today and
looking to see where it screws in on the
engine area?
 
Well have tried to remove this plug from
head really no luck and id say want be easy
as i say it has been there since she was
built.... 😯will try get hot tamar and try
it again.
 
Spray a little penetrating oil on the threads, then put an end wrench on it. Work the bolt up and down a little to see if it breaks free. It should eventually come loose. This is where you must put the temp sender for the gauge.
There are several vendors selling gauges on ebay. Most are made in India. Quality is hit and miss. Be sure to test your new gauge with a pot of water before you install. I've bought several that did not work. Usually the supplier will send you another one if you got one that is a dud.
 
Yep done bought teal good one i test it this
morning its good to go,i have been working
at trying get it free ive been spraying
liquid wrench and used little motor oil also
ill let set for few and try at it again. Ill
keep you posted. Thx for help.
 
Yes, that is where the temp sender for gauge goes. If you can find someone with a 8 point socket that would help you out some for getting it out. If you could get one and try and use an impact wrench a little on it that might help as well.
 
Yeah Alan.... it is deff one hateful booger to try to get out im trying to remove it without having yo remove the head 😥ill keep yeah posted if i get her loose...
 
impact with 8 point socket would be my top choice. Hammer a sec back and forth a few times with some pb blaster. I've been able to remove manifold bolts this way without twisting off.
 
Sodak.... ive been PB blasting all darn day
and put wrench and breaker bar but no luck
what so ever darn head on the plug is break
in pieces 😭i tried my 8 point it is plum
chewing it up ha. Guess i chould drill er
out in the middle and try to break it loose
easy.or just say heck with it and leave it
and just use my infered temp gun.
 
Yeah...sound like a good plan.,😆😆😆well i
sure keep working at it,try to tap with a
hammer and soak with Pb for week maybe might
get er broke loose. Ill keep you update on
it. 👍
 
Well.... went by napa last night pick up
some RCR freeze off spray to freeze the plug
off,i hope this stuff work says its godd but
time will tell guess.I will tinker with it
here in few see if it works.

Wes,
 
Here's another thing you can try.
Take a cold chisel (make sure it is sharp). Lay the flat side of the tip at a right angle to the iron plug. Try to break the plug loose by digging in with the chisel where the threads meet the block.
You might get it free. And you might cut away enough of it to expose some threads. This would give the penetrating oil a path to follow.
It's a long shot, but I have had some success doing this. Sometimes you have to curt away 1/4 of the plug to expose the threads. And some times the hammering action breaks the thing free.
 
Yep, im trying to get it loose the old plug
is coming apart in pieces 😯 ill try it out
see if i can break it loose. Ive been
soaking it in PB blaster it seems to be
soaking down....
 
Ol Charlie bud.got the pump off the tractor and my my its rusty bad. The baffle plate is history gone not even there 😱😯!!
 
Drain the antifreeze, take your torch and heat the plug red hot, Take some paraffin and melt over
over the top. Should be able to turn out with pipe wrench.
 
Yeah... ive heard about it but not yet tried it yet. Was worried might crack the block if go to hot maybe not one reason never tried it yet.
 
Charlie

Do you sale any of the head gaskets for the Mmoline z,ztn models? If so let me know. If not do you know where to just get the 2 so you dont have to buy the whole gasket kit? Can u get them at Napa?
 

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