m670 cold start help

dynocompe

New User
Hi there, i am new to the tractor world. We recently bought an acreage and there was a MM m670 diesel that had been parked for years that came with the place. I got it running, and runs real good in the summer. Now that the weather is getting colder here up in Northern Canada, i am having troubles getting it started. The tractor has two block heaters, which both work, the one gets way hotter than the other, are these parts still available? My main question here today is there some kind of glow plugs on these motors? I cant find any. Believe the tractor is a late 60s model, the key only has the off position, on, and start. You can turn the key to the left to activate any sort of glow plugs. But right by the key ignition, I have this little button, that says 15 amp on it i believe. I was thinking this was my glow plug button? I definitely dont see any type of glow plugs in the engine bay but i am very new to tractors and new to diesels too. I just got my first diesel truck 2 months ago. Any help on this glow plug situation would be awesome. Even in the summer, a shot of ether gets it started unless i want to crank on it for ten minutes. Tractor has a front end loader, and loving it. thanks in advance
 
To my knowledge the 670 doesn't have any glow plugs. The "button" you're talking about that says 15A, is more than likely the fuse holder. You might think it's a button because the cap will push in a tiny bit, then you turn it CCW a half turn and the cap will unlatch and come off exposing the fuse.
If the block heaters are working and it's still giving you fits, it's probably time for a rebuild. You might check the valves and get a little help from that.
 
There are no glow plugs on an M670. Plumbing in a circulating block heater would help. The regular block heaters should be available from any farm equipment dealer or auto parts store, I believe they are a common size. Like vista said, the 15A button is likely a fuse, although for what I couldn't say for sure, most of my experience is on an M602. They are a cold-blooded beast, mine likes a little ether unless its a warm summer day and it was running within the last couple days.

I also highly recommend getting an operator's manual.
 
that makes more sense that it is a fuse because it has two wires coming off the back of it and when the key is in the on position, i tested
the wires and both wires have power. I just thought this button was faulty haha. but now that makes alot more sense. Definitely a fuse. I
would love to pick up a operators manual . Where is the best place to get one for a reasonable price? I want to also change the gear oil,
what kind of oil do i use? We have no tractor supply stores here at all, no farm land around here. I have a Canadian tire or a walmart or our
small auto parts store that stocks pretty much nothing but has the parts in the next day or two.. Is their oil sufficient from walmart and
cdn tire?? What kind of engine oil should i run? I know these are really newbie questions.. I just want to be confident i am putting the
right fluids in. Also as said this has a front end loader on it and the hydraulic fliud is red. I assume this is ATF? from my memory real
hydraulic fliud is clear is it not? Is atf ok to use in the hydraulics? my searches didnt really give me a definite answers to use for oils.
Was hard to find a solid answer for this tractor as the info on minneapolis molines is kinda scarce online! I have decided the tractor will
stay in the heated shop over the winter, so when i need it for snow, i dont have to mess around for an hour or two to get it started.
 
Jensales is probably the best bet for a manual. The first link is for a regular M670, second is for an M670 Super. There will be a small "Super" decal on the side of the hood near the top front if its a Super.

http://www.external_link/products/minneapolis-moline-m670-tractor-operators-manual.html

http://www.external_link/products/minneapolis-moline-tractor-operators-manual-mm-o-m670-sup.html

For oil brand, ask 10 different people you'll get 10 different answers. Canadian Tire or Walmart oil should work fine. I usually run Mobil oils, but I have a good dealer close by.

For engine oil for older diesels, 15W40 is a good rule of thumb. For transmission, if it has the Ampli-torque 2-speed on it, they want a lighter oil I believe. Something like a Hy-Tran or possibly Universal Tractor Fluid. I'll look into it. For hydraulics, normally it's regular clear hydraulic oil, but if it has ATF in it already, I don't see as continuing to use it would hurt it any.

They may be newbie questions, but they aren't stupid ones. We all had to start somewhere. :)

By the way, how far north are you? I'm near Barrhead, AB.
 
I live by Flin Flon, MB, i am right between Creighton sk and Denare Beach, Sk. Flin Flon is a mining/border town. It is around 8 hours north
of Winnipeg. Love it here, all bush and lakes, great fishing, lakes everyhwere, i actually live 100 yards from a small lake, only house on
it.But getting scary as our mine is set to run dry in a few years, will have to see what happens. It is the Super M670 diesel, and has the
ampli torque two speed. thanks for the link. I am going to Cdn tire tomorrow and see what they got for a selection in the big pails. I know I
seen a general tractor oil at walmart made by their tune it brand. I was so pumped to see this tractor on the lot, even more pumped when she
fired up. Yard needs a ton of work and its going to be a great help.
 
Yup, that is a ways north. The closest I get is when I haul out of Prince Albert or Nipawin areas (I run all over the prairies hauling grain). Hopefully they find another vein to mine, or another industry for the town.

Minneapolis tractors are awesome machines after you run them a bit! I used to be a big time John Deere fan, but I have to admit, I love my Minnies just a little bit more now! Their just cold-blooded starters, thats all.

Hopefully others will chime in as to the oil for the transmission. I looked through my I&T manuals, and couldn't find it. I guess I need to follow my own advice and get an operators manual too! Lol!
 
(quoted from post at 20:05:35 10/10/16) that makes more sense that it is a fuse because it has two wires coming off the back of it and when the key is in the on position, i tested
the wires and both wires have power. I just thought this button was faulty haha. but now that makes alot more sense. Definitely a fuse. I
would love to pick up a operators manual . Where is the best place to get one for a reasonable price? I want to also change the gear oil,
what kind of oil do i use? We have no tractor supply stores here at all, no farm land around here. I have a Canadian tire or a walmart or our
small auto parts store that stocks pretty much nothing but has the parts in the next day or two.. Is their oil sufficient from walmart and
cdn tire?? What kind of engine oil should i run? I know these are really newbie questions.. I just want to be confident i am putting the
right fluids in. Also as said this has a front end loader on it and the hydraulic fliud is red. I assume this is ATF? from my memory real
hydraulic fliud is clear is it not? Is atf ok to use in the hydraulics? my searches didnt really give me a definite answers to use for oils.
Was hard to find a solid answer for this tractor as the info on minneapolis molines is kinda scarce online! I have decided the tractor will
stay in the heated shop over the winter, so when i need it for snow, i dont have to mess around for an hour or two to get it started.

Hi Dyno

I'm in south western Manitoba so can understand your cold weather starting issues. If you are not familiar with a tractor engine perhaps I can give you a few pointers.

I had a couple M670's over the years; one a diesel and the other an (LPG) liquid propane gas tractor. The LPG was always a good starter although I kept both plugged in to keep the oil warm in very cold weather. I used them daily for snow removal and feeding cattle with a front end loader.

The diesel was not as good a starter which is typical. You need good heavy duty batteries and if out in the cold a battery blanket wrapped around them tightly is a big help. Even a good battery will loose 40 to 60% of cranking capacity in minus 30 to 40 temps. The starter brushes and armature in the starter need to be in top condition to spin a diesel over to make enough compression to fire the fuel when it is injected into the combustion chamber. Either being much more flammable will fire at a lot lower temperature and this is why it works to get a diesel started. Doesn't do so much for a spark plug type engine as gasoline or LPG is very flammable with a spark.

For a diesel to make high compression for starting the rings, cylinder walls, pistons and valves all need to be in good condition. As this is an older tractor it's likely all of these parts are worn and don't generate high enough compression for easy starts.

The next important parts on a diesel are the injectors and injection pump. They too become worn. Particularly the injectors get worn and leak back and with poor compression they get carboned up so they don't spray a good fine mist patter which ignites easily. They are more likely to spray a straight shot of diesel fuel which in a lower compression cylinder doesn't ignite well and can in a worst case run past the pistons and thin the oil. A weak injection pump may not be supplying enough pressure which also causes a poor spray pattern and fowls the injectors quickly.

Since you have block heaters which appear to be working they should be around 1000 to 1500 watts each and should keep the cylinder blocks warm to the touch if they have been plugged in for a couple hours. This is almost like an idling temperature on a frosty cold day. If you think you need more heat a recirculating heater would be the easier way to go over replacing the block heaters. They can be corroded and rusty and difficult to remove so I would leave them in place.

Since it is very hard starting any or all of the above issues will likely be the problem. To over haul a 670 isn't cheap. They don't have sleeves in the cylinders so need to be rebored and fitted with oversize pistons and rings. Also the heads need to be serviced along with the injectors. Getting parts to do all this is very difficult in Canada so your best bet would be to search online and expect to order from the US.

As to changing the oil. If memory serves me 15/40 engine oil would be fine in the summer and also likely ok in the winter IF it is in a heated shop. If not then I would use a lighter grade. Just make sure it is for a diesel engine. I believe the transmission and differential used 80 gear oil. The red oil in the hydraulic is likely the original oil MM used and I don't remember the type. It was pretty thin oil I think maybe type "A" auto-trans oil which isn't available any more. I used regular clear hydraulic oil in mine the last number of years. Since the hydraulic system is separate and doesn't use the transmission oil a good hydraulic oil will be ok to use.

I have gotten oil from Cdn Tire and Walmart which will work fine in a tractor of this age. Oil quality has improved a lot over the past 20 to 30 years.

The 670 super is a nice tractor and has the newer style power steering system with a pump on the side at the front of the engine. Much easier to steer than the older standard 670's. It has a reservoir on top with a cap if you need to ever add oil and again I used hydraulic oil the same as for the rear hydraulics.

The fuse holder I believe was for the dash and head lights. The amplitorque uses the trans oil for lubrication and this is the reason for the 80 grade so the over running clutch which operates when you're in low range will not slip but grab and drive the tractor. Sometimes it gets worn and will slip in low range but you can use the tractor in high range without worry. It's a spilt job and costly to repair the over running clutch along with associated parts. Likely hard to find and expensive.

NOTE: Be careful if you are descending a steep hill and keep it in high range as it can free wheel in low range and run away with you.

The 670 is a very handy tractor to have, about 65 hp and quite maneuverable. It has live PTO which is nice and I think maybe the super had both 540 and 1000 RPM PTO's. I'm not 100% sure on that though. They are not difficult to work on if you happen to ever decide to do repairs just make sure you have a line on the parts you need first.

For information on MM tractors you have found one of the best sites I know of as there are many on here who can answer your questions and are happy to help out.

Best of luck and lets hope it's not a bitter winter but I think I hear you have snow already. None here yet but cool and windy.
 
thanks for all the information everyone it is greatly appreciated! It helps alot, i think i understand what everything is and does now on
this tractor! Time to give her a engine oil change and change the gear oil!
And Yes we have snow already unfortunately., probably one of the worst snow storms we have ever had that i can remember, we have close to
two feet of snow already and its very wet, sticks to everything. Not a word of a lie, i stand outside my house when it was snowing hard and
every couple minutes you hear the trees cracking and branches breaking off, even heard and saw a few fall right down. We have lost power
probably half a dozen times over the past few days. the snow is very heavy, its a good thing it wasnt windy, trees be falling over left and
right. Nobody was ready for this snow yet, i have so much stuff buried in the yard i never put away yet, i am going to have to dig it all
up to put it away . Its melting though too, i sure hope it doesnt stay, the ground hasnt froze yet, the trails will be awful for the
winter! my fishing boat is still half in the water! Not sure how i am going to get it out yet, cant get the quad down there to pull it up
lol. Its too soft for this tractor to get in there, i would get it stuck and have a real issue on my hands. This tractor is great for
removing this slushy icy snow on the driveway though, my quad cant push it very far, ground too soft, bottom 6 inches of snow is all slush.
the front end loader just scoops it up and i made a huge pile. It also pushes a nice path too, i have been impressed. Loving it actually.
Normally i have to do the sidewalks by hand, not with this tractor i dont! lol Just back blade it on the driveway and push it up in my
pile. In the summer our gravel driveway had weeds growing everywhere on the edges and non beaten paths, back bladed the whole thing, looks
like i just brought in fresh gravel. :) My first front end loader forgive me for my overly excitement on the simplest of tasks lol . Hope
every had a good thanks giving! In Canada anyways! cheers
 
I probably have a manual or one close. If not i have a 670 I just scrapped to compare. We never used our MM diesels in winter here in SW MB. Email open.
 
I don't have time to explain, but you need to get a manual, or have someone on here explain the draining and filling of both the Ampli-Torc and trans-diff compartments. Or you may do damage to the Ampli-Totc.
MMDEL
 
ok thanks mmdel, maybe i will have to wait to get a manual, that is the oil i want to change the most as i think it was leaking on the bottom
cover due to not being sealed properly.
 
do you happen to know the proper procedure for draining and filling the ampli torq and trans diff? Someone just commented that i can do damamge if procedure is not properly followed?
 
Just drain and fill to proper levels. There is bungs for proper levels. Only damage that can occur is using torque in low range with out letting oil warm up.
 
I worked for HBMS at Flin Flon in the seventies. Nice area, especially for fishing. Starts to get chilly this time of year. Stay warm. Unc
 
As Del hinted to, there is a few things to be noted when changing transmission/differential oil. The torc compartment runs at a higher level than the transmission and rear end. Oil is flung forward by gears in the transmission to keep it full. There is no level plug on the torc compartment if remember correctly. It does have its own drain plug. So oil needs to be drained from the torc compartment at the front of the transmission, and from the plug under the rear end. Oil fill shoild be a large plug in the gearshift cover. A level plug is down by the brake pedals. If you don't know how much to dump in, I would remove the Ampli-Torc adjustment plug (by torc lever) and fill through there until oil runs out the level plug by the brake pedals. Then you know both compartments are at the proper level. If you mainly plan to use the tractor in cold weather, a universal tractor hydraulic oil may be better than the original 80-90 in the rear end. This is a very debated subject. I would run 15-40 in the engine in the summer for sure. Hydraulics and power steering are fine with ATF or hydraulic fluid. Whichever you prefer. This site has manuals for sale I believe. Probably would be a good idea to get the operators manual. If you plan on doing any repairs a parts book and I&T manual are good items to have.
 
Damage can occur if he does not realize there is two places two drain and fill. If the front compartment isn't filled separately to the higher level he can damage the Ampli-Torc in low range before the gears fill it to the proper level.
MMDEL
 
thank you Chris and mmdel i appreciate the info. this is why i joined the forms, i would not of known to do the ampli torq seperate.
 
To be technical about it the oil flung off the tranny gears hits the side of the tranny case and lands in a trough that transfers it to the forward compartment. Excess oil flows back into the tranny thru the bearing between the compartments. You will probably find the tranny is easier to shift with the amplitorque in low range, just do not use the low range for work until the oil is thoroghly warmed up. As mentioned you get NO engine braking in low range, downhills can get interesting.
Bryce
 

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