U water pump

klw445

Member
I need to put a seal kit in my 1950 U. Can someone help me with the proper procedure. I have put one in this tractor before but it didn't seem to last very long, so I am guessing I did something wrong.
 
If it didn't last long, it's possible the surface that the seal seals on is rough. It is the bushing housing and also has an oil seal to the rear. Have to remove the cam gear cover/ water pump housing and a set screw to remove the part in question. I have had them trued up on a lathe before with good results. Recommend using a stainless steel groove pin through the impellor as we've had problems with steel pins rusting away and letting the impellor come loose.
 
Sir,
The number one problem in water pump failures is getting petroleum, or silicone, lube on the seal surface. The lube will destroy the seal in no time.
If there are concentric rings on the seal surface; there is no need to machine the #KE5501(C) assembly. If there are radial grooves; you will have to lathe the part just enough to level the seal surface. Do not face the iron until it is pretty. you would be just wasting good metal, and making extra work for the spring.Always face outward and do not break the edge when finished. The sharp edge is actually helpful in quick seating.
It is a good idea to either sandblast the #KE504C impeller seal well, or chuck it up in your lathe and clean out the seal well with a positive rake boring bar. Never use a negative rake tool on the brass.
I agree that one should toss the #50A1353 pin. I personally use the #RE587-S stainless roll pin instead. It makes things so easy in installation, and if you ever have to take things apart.
Happy wrenching.
Charlie at
Moline Parts
 
Thanks for the advice. So should I not pump any grease into the zerk, or is that directed somehow away from the seal? Also, should I put any lubricant on the seal for install? Charlie, do you have all of the parts I need or do I simply get them through my AGCO dealer?

Thanks again
 
klw445,
When assembling; use only undiluted antifreeze or P80 type water pump assembly lube around the seal area. Make sure the bleed hole is open so the excess grease has somewhere to go. Most of the weep holes are painted shut. That is everyones big problem. Greasing the pump after it is assembled is a good thing. Just do not use oils or grease when assembling the pump. Once the seal face sees any lube, just toss the seal in the trash. The MM pump is designed to eject excess grease out of the weep hole. If you use a double lip seal( the kind I provide); everything bad will always go out the weep hole.
At one time there was a special water pump grease available. Unfortunately, when Kendall refinery went the way of all good companys; I never saw good specialty greases again. The old orange 05 water pump grease did not attack face seals and was kind to bearings. The #823 fiber grease was bought by every straw hat farmer with button pants, for greasing open ball bearing buggy wheels and thrashing machines. Ask someone today for a calcium complex grease and they look at you like you are speaking in pig Latin.
I have all of the water pump seals and gaskets for all MM tractors on the shelf. Right now I still have some OEM #KE534A AGCO ones on hand too. Your #KE534A seal is going to get tricky to source soon. The #KE534A will soon have to be made in house because, right now, the original manufacturers are gone away. The last in the line manufacturer was wiped out and no signs of a new company are in sight. I refuse to go to India or China to get them. While my stock of original seals is good; I have drawn up the plans for a new press to make three quarter inch four petal seals in house, next year. Thanks to Fred in Morton Grove for those original John Crane prints. Instead of looking like the old N.O.K. style seal we all are familiar with; the new seals will then just be a scaled up version of the very old John Crane #501 type seal we make, right here, for the R and Z tractors. Crane called the three quarter inch version a #701, but never sold that size to MM. The advantage of the Crane style seals is they do not have the carbon face that gets attacked by the oils.
Don't get me started about those old Schwitzer/Cummins seals MM sold before 1965. They were a headache in a box for everyone.
Have fun getting dirty.
Charlie
 

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