Had to replace the head gasket on my U. pulled the head replaced the gasket and now I am torking the head to specks. The IT service manual says to "tighten the water manifold & intake & exhaust manifold then procede to tork the head, but the diagram showing the tork sequence does not show the water manifold as the first 2 bolts to tighten. In addition there are at leat two bolts on the water manifold that I cannot tork with my tork wrench due to the position of the water line. I guess I am making this too hard. If I tighten the 2 bolts on the water manifold I can only guess because my tork wrench will not fit in the space allowed. So it comes down to this just tighten the 2 bolts on the water manifold then follow the sequence in the manual, Correct? Thanks
 
I have that tool for getting around the water jacket. I got it from snap=on tools a long time ago. It is not made any more from them. If I was you I would at least try and get a boxed end crows foot in 7/8" or 15/16"can't remember which and tork it down close with that. http://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=crow+foot
 
I bought one from JD (shhh...lol) that looks like it should work. Is yours like this Kevin? Missed out on one or two a few years ago.
a222304.jpg
 
I took a wrench & welded a socket to it, with the distance of the center of the socket & the center of the box end of the wrench being two inches. There is a formula to figure what your new torque setting is, of course it will be lower than the original torque spec. I do not have the equation here with me, but can be found on the internet somewhere.
 
The water manifold I believe IT manual is referring to is the one on the side of the cylinder blocks. By torqueing that manifold and the intake/exhaust, it gets all the sealing surfaces parallel for the best sealing.
 
Be careful not to overtorque the bolts where the water manifold mounts. It will crack pretty easily if you're not careful.
 
I meant to add:

If you use a crows foot and keep the torque wrench perpendicular to it, there is no need to adjust for the applied torque.
 
I kind of figured they were a little shorter from the one I saw a few years ago. This one is about 10" in length.
 
What the IT manual is talking about is to place the exhaust manifold on first to align the heads. if you just slap the heads on and torque them down and they are not perfectly aligned, when you tighten down the exhaust manifold, you may bust the manifold. I usually bolt the manifold on and tighten lightly with out gaskets, then proceed to torque the head according to the sequence in the manual.Then put on all the components.
MMDEL
 
The formula is T = Tb*(L2/(L1+L2)) where

T = torque wrench setting to give required torque at the bolt or nut

Tb = torque required at the bolt (or nut)

L1 = distance from the center of the bolt or nut to be torqued to the center of the torque wrench socket driver

L2 = distance from the center of the torque wrench socket driver to the approximate center of where your hand will be on the torque wrench handle
 

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