New to these

breimer

Member
Looked at a "U" today. Not running, looks pretty rough. The guy wants 200 dollars for it. Seems cheap enough. Are there any known weaknesses or red flags I should watch for? Not familiar with these.
 
Do you happen to know the year of it? Earlier models had a single head, later ones two heads. (Two heads are better than one....I just had to throw that in there...lol)
 
I think that is less than scrap price around here. The seller must want to see it fixed up or parted out rather than reincarnated as a Nissan or Toyota.
 
All the tires are full. Rear ones quite worn and full of small cracks. Front are pretty good except one has a bad spot in sidewall. Apparently it ran about 8 years ago. Scares me a bit that there's clear water in the rad. That's what came out of the draincock when I checked.Hopefully it was empty enough that it did crack the block in the cold winter. I couldn't find any visible cracks on outside of engine, and the frost plugs I found were not popped out. Still hope it's not cracked somewhere inside. At the price I will likely buy it and check it out. One more question. Would I harm anything by flat towing it about 15 miles? The tractor is 15-20 miles away and I don't have a big enough trailer to haul it.
 
Also to answer question it has 2 heads. I don't know the year. Trying to upload picture.
26134.jpg
 
That is going to be a later model UTS. (UT model standard tread wide front); I draw that conclusion by the following: 30" rear tires (instead of 38); is distributor ignition (not a magneto); has one of the later style hood side curtain designs. If close to me; I would buy it in a heartbeat.
 
Planning to buy this. Will I harm it by flat towing it about 15 miles? Let's say if I keep it less than 20mph?
 
One thing you should do before you move it is to crack the drain plug open on the rear end and drain out any accumulated water. I did that on my ZA before I moved it and got a few gallons out. Have to keep a close eye on it as the gear oil will come right after the water is done. I usually thread the plug all the way out but keep pressure upward on it and then tilt it slightly so when the water is off you can just tilt it back and thread it back in. Engine is ok to do as well so you can see if their is any antifreeze there. If it is the one you pictured...grab it. Towing it home should be fine but 10-12mph, maybe 15 is a lot when you are being pulled on a non running tractor as you don't really have control of it, and at that speed it will feel like a lot more. Might be a good idea before towing to jack up each rear wheel and check the brakes to see that they aren't stuck or will stick when you move it.
 
I have pulled tractors home too, but hauling is safer. That one should fit between the fenders of a car hauler trailer. But if you pull it, check the tires out and make sure the brakes work. 12-15 mph is all the faster I'd want to go on it, but you must be braver than me. Great find! Brian
 
Towing it that far you have a danger of wiping out the idler bearing in the top trans shaft. Since it has been setting for so long there will be no lube left in the bearing. It gets lubricated from the splash oil from the lower gears. And they will all be stationary when you pull it in neutral. You can overcome this by having the engine running and the clutch engaged. But from what you say I doubt the engine is runable at this time. For the very cheap price you are paying for this tractor it might be money well spent to rent a trailer or hire someone to haul. It would be a shame to damage the trans on a good unit.
MMDEL
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top