MM GVI {MF 95 Super}

Leo Haddox · Aug 24, 2014

I have been looking at a MF 95 Super, but I am posting here, because the tractor was made by MM, and is essentially a GVI. The tractor, which has the D 425 I-6 engine is hard to start, and requires starting fluid on the first start.and has a rear main leak. I feel based on these things and the hint of oil burning while test driving that it needs a rebuild. I have searched the net, and I'm not finding allot of information about 425 diesel kits. I know people who pull these tractors replace this motor with a larger industrial motor, but I would like to keep this tractor diesel, original if not a little larger and pull 3.5 MPH class with our local club. I've been told that later tractor Jugs like those from G1000's fit, but would like suggestions and information on parts availability, before I purchase. Thank you, LH

moresmoke · Aug 24, 2014

The Moline diesels are generally hard starters period. If its burning oil, it could be getting tired also. 3.5 mph classes are difficult due to the gear ratios that you have. It will be 1st gear only, and may be a tad fast. I run a 504 against some bigger cube lp tractors, and hold my own relatively, but we have a wide variety of tracks here. You can put a 504 in a GVI with no problems. It seems Welters in Verona, Mo are the go to people for parts these days.

moresmoke · Aug 24, 2014

On edit, you said its leaking oil not burning. The rear main is a rope seal and can be replaced from the oil pan. I would check the pump timing before I condemned it for starting hard. A RoosaMaster pump would be preferable to a Bosch PSB for pulling.

toolz · Aug 24, 2014

If rebuilding it, I would find a set of 504 jugs and pistons. Cheap, easy upgrade to make it a better puller.

mm-g706 · Aug 25, 2014

Leo

With a little work you should be able to get it start without using ether on it at all, unless maybe under 50 degrees. First start off by draining all the fuel and changing all the filters. If hasn't been done in the last five years they like fresh fuel. I've had really good success with the Stanadyne proformance formula fuel treatment mix 4oz to 5gal on first bit of fuel when starting over. Depending on which injection pump is on it. With Bosch pump I back fill the final filter with straight fuel conditioner for bleeding purposes. Roosmaster fill primary filter with conditioner. I like to add an electric inline pump after the filters like a 5psi 20 gph. Then work on getting the oil changed. And getting a good valve adjustment done will go along ways. Having good battery cables like double 00 and good high cranking amp battery. Then go give it a working for a few hours some how either running on a Dyno or farming. Best of luck

Leo Haddox · Aug 25, 2014

It has a roosamaster pump. It is leaking pretty bad, so it sounds nice that tractor would not have to be seperated to fix the rear main. The starter cranks the tractor easy, but the gentleman who were showing me the tractor had to shoot starting fluid to get it started, and said you had to do it each time. It smelled bad when running, ran rough in the onset, but after warming up smoothed out. If I purchase it, I"ll be going into it thinking I"m going to rebuild. I had my son check the gear ratio"s to tire size, and he told me what you folks have said as well, that 3.5 is awefully slow for this tractor, and I"d only be able to run slightly over 1500 rpm"s with 34 SAT firestones. It would seem that a little bigger engine might not be a bad thing. What are the Jugs out of that will get me to 504, and if jugs are switched would heads also need to be switched. Sorry about all the stupid questions, I"ve never messed with anything this big before. It is sure is a buitiful tractor.
Thank you all for your help. LH

MM diesel · Aug 25, 2014

The GVI has 4.25 jugs and pistons. The 504/336 jugs/pistons are 4.625. You could the jugs & pistons from the following tractors : M5, M602, M670, G1000, G705, G1050. The G900 pistons are 4.375 and that would get you to 451 cubic inch.

Michael Moeller
[email protected]

Leo Haddox · Aug 25, 2014

Like I asked below, do the heads also have to be replaced with the jugs, because that seems to be a pretty big jump? Thanks LH

moresmoke · Aug 25, 2014

The 425 heads are 10A4214 heads. The 504 use 10A4222. The difference is the size of the combustion chamber in the head. I would not be afraid to run the originals on bigger blocks. A little more compression would help the power and starting quite a bit. The other thing on starting would be to get the injectors checked/cleaned. They fire across the top of the piston to the energy cell on the other side. The aim is critical for good starting.

MM diesel · Aug 26, 2014

The 5 star, M5, M602, early M670, G705, early G1000 and G707 used the 4222 heads. The G1000 and super M670 used the 10A23134 heads. I changed my jugs on a UB diesel and kept the 4214 heads, and it pulls great.

Polardiesel · Aug 27, 2014

Replacing the rear seal is a chore with crank in place. Loosen the main caps and drop crank slightly, get a seal puller/installer from napa and pull new seal around crank. Biggest problem is cutting upper half to correct length. I would find some 4.375 pistons and bore your original blocks to fit. Using the 4214 heads will help compression ratio alot with this bore size. Also i think the g6 has the large bell pattern....605/800?

1965lonewolf · Sep 1, 2014

Welters in Verona, Mo for parts , once you clean everything and fix or rebuild the pump it should start very easy, mine can sit for months and start in 10 seconds of hitting the button.They do pull well.I also use Stanadyne proformance formula fuel treatment and once in a while some howes and it never acts up,I run a roosasmaster pump.

MM GVI {MF 95 Super}

Leo Haddox

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moresmoke

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moresmoke

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toolz

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Leo Haddox

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MM diesel

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Leo Haddox

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moresmoke

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1965lonewolf

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