Jet Star 3 super pto clutch repair

brian(MN)

Member
How do I get the shaft that the PTO clutch is on out of the tractor? The manual says it comes out the rear without splitting the tractor. The yoke is broke and so are other things so it has to come out. The clutch unit is loose on the shaft, but I can't move the shaft. I have not tried too hard yet. Thought I would ask first. I did shearch the archives.
Brian
 
Brian, Im not sure if that is the same set up as the G950, (was told the pto clutch pack was the same as the Jet Star 3s...just a couple more discs and plates) but I had to bump mine out towards the rear. There is a small shoulder on the shaft I think the manual mentions, I'll have to look to make sure, that you can use a brass drift on. It isnt much of a shoulder to work with though. That is what I had to do on mine anyway.
 
I will look in the manual again. I believe it said if a suitable puller cant be obtained the shaft can be bumped to the rear driving on the shoulder where the set screw sits. I will look again at the manual to make sure. I can email you the page if you need it.
 
I have that I & T service manual that says that. I will look again tomorrow, but I did not see any shoulder. Do those bearings at the rear support come out?
Brian
 
Im not sure about the bearings, I will take a look in the books and see what I can find out. If I remember correctly on my G950, the ball bearing on the shaft is held in by a snap ring in the rear housing but not sure if the Jet Star series is the same. The shoulder on the shaft is almost non existant from what was on the 950. It was probably 1/16" to 1/8". I think what happens with them is the cage that houses the plates gets a little mushroomed and doesnt slide over the splines well. Mine was loose but didnt want to slide forward.
 
after straightening the lock washer and loosening the large nut locked by the washer, slide the whole clutch, except the inner hub and outer cage, foward until you can remove the cotter pin from the set screw & the set screw itself. Then pry the inner hub forward enough to remove the key from the shaft (remove it between the inner hub and the outer cage). To get the key out, you will have to move the inner hub forward as far as possible. Only after the key and the setscrew have been removed can you move the shaft rearward. Everything on the rear of the shaft will come out the rear of the tractor. The shaft is usually hard to move. I use a 24" pipe wrench on the rough part of the shaft near the front of the rearend case (ahead of the threads). Pull rearward on the wrench handle (to grip the shaft), then pry the wrench rearward with a large prybar against the front of the case. When sliding the shaft out, there are two brass thrust washers, one on each side of the PTO drive gear that you will need to catch if you don't want to hunt for them. If the marks you make on the shaft with the wrench prevent things from sliding off the shaft, I tap them with a hammer then clean them up after the shaft is out.
 
Here's a picture of a puller I made from a piece of 3/8 all thread rod and a steel plate ( I think that part of the sickle drive off an Owatonna swather). Thread the rod as far into the end of the shaft as you can. This is on a M670 Super, I don't know if a Jet Star has the threads in the end of the pto shaft. As mentioned before take the key and the set screw out before using the puller. The rear bearings come out with the shaft.
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I had forgotten about the threads in the shaft. Been a while since I did mine. If I remember correctly I think my 950 was 9/16" fine thread. I had forgotten about it but now I remember that I had a hard time finding a correct bolt to use. Does yours have the snap ring holding the bearing in the rear housing as well?
 
My shaft has 5/16 threads, so I am not getting much help with pulling from that, don't care to drill out a broken bolt just yet. I tried the pipe wrench idea, it does work, but no luck yet, that shaft is very solid. I will look into it more when I get time.
9/16 is rare, I needed a 9/16 bolt for something last winter, can't remember what for sure, maybe to line up a wheel to a hub?
Brian
 
I agree, 5/16 isnt much to pull from. Maybe using a puller and tapping shaft back at the same time will get it out. I would be leary too with that small of a bolt. If the tractor has been sitting a while there might be a small amount of rust build up on the splines by the clutch as well. I think I might have moved mine back and forth untill it came loose. You could make a collar to bolt onto the shaft in an open spot so you have more to tap against as well. It is fun working on older machinery until something gets stuck...lol
 
I spent a few hours on this today. Took awhile but I got it out without breaking anything more. I was getting nowhere, so out of desperation I took a brass shaft and pounded the shaft in, then I knew it was loose, I used a piece of steel and a bolt, I turned it into the end of the shaft used a crowbar and a tire iron and pried it out. It was after I got it out I saw the spot on the shaft where I could have used a punch to pound it out. The yoke and the "floating plate" plus linkages, need to be replaced. Looks like the same parts numbers in my parts 445. I guess that is what I bought it for.
thanks!
Brian
 
Here are some more pictures. I thought I took more but I had it apart about 3 times and the camera got put aside. I had a lot of trouble getting the bearings seated all the way. I finally installed the shaft and then the bearings. Made a tool out of a pipe to drive the races in. Had the shaft in the first time and then found the threads on the shaft were messed up. Then I had made a new key, but it was a bit too long, but I finally got it.
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I am deep into the same project on a Jetstar 3 super. My problem (today) is getting the clutch to slide forward on the shaft to remove the key. I've considered trying to pull the shaft, but this would probably crush the thrust washer. Ideas? Also, do you know a good source for a clutch assembly. I 'd rather not buy a445 for parts
 

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