Restoring 1946 ZTU.

DFZ

Member
I have a "46 ZTU and plan on starting to restore it soon.
I would like some advice on rebuilding the engine. I don"t want to make a puller tractor out of it, I personally hate seeing that. I want to restore it as a very strong Stock tractor with as strong of engine as I can rebuild it to have without sacrificing dependability.
Can you fit a crankshaft for a ZA or ZB in the crankcase for a ZT for the extra stroke? Or since I assume I need to have the crank ground, can it be stroked for any noticeable difference?
.060 oversize pistons are available, if any larger are available would I start to sacrifice dependability? Or can a person safely go to .120 over?
How much do you dare shave the head and/or blocks for added compression?

What have you all done to beef up a stock ZTU?

Thanks for any advice. I just want to keep the stock crankcase and stock appearance and make the engine stronger than factory but just as dependable so it can be used for another 67 years.


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The crankshaft in your RE block cannot be changed out with one of the later engines. The main bearings in a ztu crank consist of a roller bearing in the front & rear, whereas a za or zb crank uses a different type roller in the front with an insert bearing in the middle & rear. You mention that a puller is not what you want, but why the the need for longer stroke & 120 over pistons? Personally, I would rather have the later engine, it gives you more stroke & has a stronger crank. Yours is a 185cid & the later is 206cid stock.
You could use the .120 over pistons and an LP head in the ztu engine, but I would be concerned about the added stress on the bottom end. This is just my 2 cents worth. However you go, good luck! I think ZTU"s are the greatest!
 
I recently restored a 1946 ZTN 2 years ago. The engine had been bored out to 40 over before I got it but the engine was froze up. When I opened it up, I found a fist size hole through one of the cylinder walls into the water jacket. I have no idea how long it ran with 40 over pistons, but the cylinder wall finally gave in. It vary well could have been a faulty block. The cylinder wall was very thin at the hole. Since I had heard of boring them out 60 over and more, I replaced both cylinder blocks and bored both out to match my pistons. It is running very well. However, I have not had it on a dyno to see if it produces more HP than original.
 

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