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MF 265r

S

Squisher

Member
Hello,

I recently purchased a mf265. I am prepping it for a simple paint job/cleanup as it's a working tractor for me.

I have a couple of questions.

This tractor has a front hydro pump/tank. It also has a 3spool valve mounted under the right footbed that isn't being used but is being run through to a single spool valve then mounted up on the fender.

1. I'm curious if the 3spool is some sort of factory setup? It lines right up with slots in the fender. I can't find any infos/photos showing this though?

2. On this front hydro system there is no filter so I'm assuming to put one in the return line?

3. The vent on this front mounted hydro tank is loose and leaking like a sieve. Also they ran the air filter minder line to the hydro tank vent. Is this proper?

4. The hydro lines are just ran helter skelter front to back is there a proper/clean way to run these lines?

Thanks for any thoughts/help.

This tractor is a big leap for me, it came with a full line of haying equipment that I also need to run through too this spring. Lots of shop time ahead. I'm going from hiring in a farmer to make hay for me to doing it all myself. Could be a fools errand but I like a challenge.



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I'm not sure where the 'r' came from in the thread title. I must have put it there mistakenly.

I have been reading/searching a lot and haven't found a lot of info in this forum on the 265. I don't know if it's a slightly newer tractor for this forum or if it just hasn't come up much? If someone knows of where I may find more info/discussion online about this tractor please let me know.

Thanks, Justin
 
I'm not sure where the 'r' came from in the thread title. I must have put it there mistakenly.

I have been reading/searching a lot and haven't found a lot of info in this forum on the 265. I don't know if it's a slightly newer tractor for this forum or if it just hasn't come up much? If someone knows of where I may find more info/discussion online about this tractor please let me know.

Thanks, Justin
 
It could (probably) have had a front end loader on it, that would be the main reason for all the extra hydraulics. No reason to take it off, it could come in handy one day, plus a lot people wish their tractor had a separate axillary hydraulic system to run some equipment that require it.
 

Thank you for the reply. My apologies for double posting and messing up the title. I'm a bit rough with computers/forums.

I certainly plan to leave the pump on. Just wanting to clean it up some. Seemed strange to run through the 3way block and was curious if anyone was familiar with levers running through those slits in the fenders and how that may have all been setup at one time.

Mostly I want to sort the vent on the front tank that's vented into the intake? As I mentioned the vent is loose in its thread in the top of the hydraulic tank and is really spewing oil out. I'm reluctant to seal that up and have it spew hydraulic oil into the intake?
 
Wish I could help you on this, I have not
seen a hydraulic set up like that before,
not factory, unlike my 265 and various
neighbor's and relatives MFs. I cut hay and
try to keep hoses,etc away from bottom of
tractors. Those hoses look new. Have you
checked to see if it's all operational? Lots
of good folks here to help you with tractor,
also haying if needed. 265 is a good
tractor.
 

Thanks for the reply. The hoses aren't new but aren't to old. Unfortunately due to poor routing they are prematurely abraded in spots. Everything functions on the tractor and the hydraulics work. I used them to lift the haybine to the transport position. The breather setup seems real goofy to me and I'm going to replace it with a normal breather cap and put a filter in the return line for now I think. The oil in the tank is filthy.
 

I should say the hoses running front to back are newer(ish) but some of the hoses running the single remote are pretty old. I believe it's been operated this way for quite awhile.
 
The spool valves are still underneath the foot board, they just removed the control levers, and hoses. Someone spent some money on that hydraulic system, and the good thing about the single spool valve for the rear remote you can use the 3 point, and something that requires a hydraulic cylinder at the same time. For the oil tank it really needs a fill port on it, and the vent needs to be far enough away, and higher than the tank so any oil mist that gets in there can drain back into the tank.
 

Thanks. I think I can accomplish all that on the hydraulic tank by simply replacing the weird intake/vent contraption with a normal vent cap that I can remove to fill. I'm going to have to source a good hydro filter base and figure out a good spot to mount it, as well as my cleanest way to run the supply/return front to back.

The next couple of days are all paint prep though. Even though I'm trying to keep it simple and not get to bogged down with it. Lots of other stuff to go through too.

This tractor as well as a baler, mower conditioner, rake, and bale wagon have sat in a field since after first cut 2016. The previous owner walked away from it all in a real estate sale and the new owner had no interest in it. Besides having a new clutch installed in the tractor. He had the old one there as proof in a pile and the clutch does feel new and works well.
 

Well slow and steady wins the race I hope. Our spring has been so cold and lousy so far up here in BC that I haven't felt confident in painting due to temperature. I also learned a lot about painting, built a makeshift booth in my shop and acquired a supplied air system.

I've done a lot of prep and repairs and currently have the power steering cylinder off to reseal it. Need to get a kit from the dealer next week hopefully. I've included a couple of pictures and the pin that holds the cylinder on the tractor side shows a bunch of wear. To me that looks concerning enough to replace. The other pin on what I would call the steering side looks in good condition to me. Curious on more experienced thoughts on that? Also if while,I have this apart if there's any other service or checks to be done. The steering side bracket that the cylinder attaches to does have a bit of play back and forth, like its rocking back and forth on splines but doesn't feel wallowed out or have any perceptible vertical play. But I'm curious if I should be checking further for wear or play?

I also have the auxiliary hydraulic system drained and am wanting to plumb in a filter. Curious on others thoughts on whether this is nescessary or not or even a good idea or not. It's run along time it appears without one but unfiltered oil just seems wrong to me? I'd hate to add some sort of restriction though? I'm a good wrench but hydro systems have always been a weak point for me.



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I have also been steady working on the hay equipment. Lots of learning, research, wrenching, lubing. Having a good time with it all as I expected. I haven't asked much about things because I generally try to just do and research before just asking. But I'm sure I'm gonna need help at some point. Lol.

Cheers, and thanks for any/all responses.

Justin
 
If it were me I'd replace that pin (might as well since you are that far into it). For the arm with the splines is it a one piece, or does it have a pinch bolt to tighten the arm on the splined shaft.
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For a hydraulic filter usually they are put on the suction side of the pump, or on the return side before it goes back into the tank. It wouldn't hurt to have a filter on it.
 

Well I ordered the pin and the seal kit from my local dealer. It'll be about a week, to week and a half and still cost me $20 in shipping. The joys of being a Canadian.

My arm with the splines is a one piece like 32 in the diagram.

Thanks for the info again on the hydraulics, I've worked on hydraulics but never modified a system, just replaced. Hence my hesitation. But I got it now. The three spool valve under the floorboard is leaking and so I'm delving into what that may be. I've got all the lines and hydro stuff off the tractor except for the actual front pump.

I've ended up tearing the thing down a bit to prep for the paint. It's been a little more work then I anticipated at first to splash some paint on the old beast. I figured a few extra hours of wrenching to break it down some would go along ways in how well I would be able to clean, prep, and paint it. I hope it turns out. Got a ways to go still. Hoping to spray by the end of the week, early next week at the latest. Gotta get this wrapped up and ready to make hay!

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The arm with the pinch bolt is on the later tractors, but it can be used to replace the one piece arm. With the paint since you will be probably using a enamel paint use the gloss hardener, it will dry a little faster, and be a lot more durable.
 

I don't think I'll dig into the steering any further for now. Everything was working fine, just the cylinder was puking oil.

I'm using agco enamel and I'm going to add hardener to it. I haven't painted in about ten years so I'm a bit nervous about it but confident I can get a decent result. Ill do some test spots and get it dialed before I go all in. Part of my waiting on painting has been temp and had been waiting for a hobby air system I scored off of eBay.

I'll update with some pics when it happens, or more likely be back with another question or two first. Lol.

Thanks again.
 
The hardest part of painting a tractor is getting everything clean, then painting all the hard to get to spots first before painting what is easily seen. One thing I do after the last coat of paint is to give it a quick once over with some thinner with the spray gun, the quick thinner coat will let any over spray sink in which helps the shine (trick a old painter told me about which works good).
 

When you do that how soon after the final coat do you apply the shot coat of thinner? Is it a as soon as possible sort of thing or should the paint set up some first?

After all this messing about the shinier the better!
 
I do the thinner/reducer like another coat, but you just move faster. When you paint something it seems like you usually wind up with less than 1/2 of what the spray gun holds. If that happens I just top the gun off with reducer, stir it up, and give it a quick coat. You may not have that problem with overspray if the weather is cool, but if you do see some the quick coat of reducer is better/easier than sanding, and buffing the paint, or just living with the overspray.
 

Thanks for all these tips. I've kinda gone deeper then I originally planned now. I've got the rad out now too and am considering pulling the front nose off of the tractor to paint. It looks like the front surround and bumper can be removed as one piece and painted the silver and avoid a bunch of taping. So much old filth to fight through. I cleaned the outside of the fuel tank today and couldn't believe how much built up tar was on that sucker.

I am wondering now about the use of a rust converter before primering? Curious on thoughts of whether it's a nescessary step or not? This tractor isn't particularly rusty but there will certainly be some bits of surface rust here and there. Not looking to invent extra work at this point and time but I've got a lot of hours into cleaning and wire wheeling now. I want to make sure I don't overlook something.
 
I'd just sand the surface rust off, what rust won't sand off I blast it of with glass beads, or real fine blasting sand. I have used the rustoleum spray on rust converter on the roof of my 1986 Ford Ranger (it was pretty bad), its been over 3 years, and paint hasn't bubbled yet.
 

Ok. I will probably just clean it up as best I can then and go straight to the final wipe down with thinner and then primer.

I appreciate the responses/help you've given me. A couple long days of prep still I think and hopefully I can paint this weekend. Or atleast get started laying some paint.
 


Well things are getting closer. Man oh man. Degrease, pressure wash, wire wheel, sand. Repeat, repeat, repeat.

I believe I'll have things ready to paint for tomorrow. I've decided to step up the paint from agco enamel to mixed 2k paint for the top coats. I can't get another quart of flint metallic grey anywhere near me and I'm concerned that the one quart I have isn't going to be enough. So I'm going to shelve that quart and use the agco Massey red that I have to repaint a 124 baler when I have some time.

This will cost me a bit more but I've come to understand that the 2k paint will be a higher quality and more resistant to fade?

I also got the steering cylinder kit and resealed it, as well as swapped in a new thermostat while it's all stripped down. I got that new pin too and comparing to the old one I think I would've been fine to re-use it but the new one will go in now.

A friend of mine stopped by and prevented me from tearing the front nose/bumper piece off. Far enough is the verdict most people are passing on my madness. Lol.


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My late uncle bought a MF240 (his daughter) my aunt has it now. I don't know about the AGCO paint because the red/orange paint didn't take long to fade (and he kept it in a barn when not in use). It has been 20 years since he passed, and the paint (even the gray) on it is absolutely horrible. My aunt keeps it in a barn also when its not used, she likes the way my 135 came out so she's "hinting" that she wants me to repaint it.

My 135 done with plain ol Rustoleum from Home Depor with gloss hardener.
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Nice. Looks good. That's the kind of transformation I'm hoping for. Just got everything together for my makeshift booth. Tarps inside the shop, intake and exhaust fans and my supplied air. I'm going to spray some of the lesser pieces this afternoon, heat shields and such. See how my gun is working and get used to it a bit. It's hopefully all coming together.
 

The struggle is real! Lol

I primed my test pieces yesterday and had a hell of a time with the gun. Should've read up a bit first. But that's why I did some test pieces. Got everything given the final wipe down and rolled it in my makeshift booth and got nearly everything primered tonight. Ran out of primer though so I'm gonna have to grab some more tomorrow. I just taped off the tires, wish I'd had a bit more time and could've removed them but I had to stop somewhere and start moving forward. Hay is growing! Feels good to get the primer done. Still had a bit of a time with the gun tonight and probably wasted about what I came up short on primer. Live and learn, hopefully.

My lighting leaves a little to be desired. I may pick up A set of work lights tomorrow to boost visibility a little.


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Well. I've learned a lot in the last couple of days lol. I've learned that a few tarps and a couple of fans doesn't make the greatest 'paint booth'. I'm going to add a few more box exhaust fans to finish painting the rest. I had to go real slow to avoid as much overspray as possible. I also learned tractors are hard to paint, compared to a body panel. Getting full coverage without a ton of overspray was the struggle and full coverage in general.

Overall I'm quite pleased. Just have the red tin to do which will have to wait until next week. Which is ok because I can just leave this part of the project in the shop to cure and pick away at reassembly if I have some time.


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The other side, you can see my run on the grill surround. This is a base coat/clear coat paint I applied and the run is in the clear so I should be able to get it out if I want.

Man painting is a lot of hard work. My hats off to those who are highly skilled at it. I learned just enough in this project to consider myself a rank amateur. I was definetly swinging above my weight class using the 2k paint and it added some expense to the project too. Time will tell I guess if it was worth the investment or not. I think for my skill level and setup a cheaper paint might have made more sense.

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You can sand the runs out, and polish them, never know a run was there. Spraying clear coat take a bit of practice to get it without runs.
 

I just got a couple runs on the one side of the grill surround and I think I may want to fix them. The local supplier I've been dealing with said they should set up for a few days atleast, said it was easier to fix if they were cured hard?

Overall though I feel it's gone well so far. Now the fun part, putting it all back together. I'll be gone for about a week so that will slow me up. Hoping to get it all back together and drive it out of the shop and then paint all the red.
 

Well I'm hoping to have it running again by the end of the day possibly.

A couple of questions. I've tried searching around and as usual its left me scratching my head maybe more than when I started.

Is there a preferred oil filter brand and number for the spin on oil filters on these? Mine is now painted so can't get the numbers off of it.

Is there any specific considerations for coolant? I have a two gallon jug of extended life heavy duty diesel coolant that I'd like to use up, the red stuff which is already supposed to have the additives. Would this be fine to use with distilled water? My tractor had green coolant in it before I drained it all, drained the block too.

Thanks a bunch for any and all responses, Justin
 
The engine oil filter 1447048M1, NAPA should be able to cross it over (any filter brand except Fram should be ok). The coolant you are using, and the distilled water will be fine.
 


Thanks again for taking the time. Hoping to drive it out this afternoon/evening and then get the red panels painted in the next day or two. That would work out good as I'm out of town for a week or so after that again and so I'll let the panels cure undisturbed all that time. Amazing what a few days difference makes in the paint being set up properly for re assembling. Way less fingerprints lol.

I'll try and get a couple pics up this evening just to update and keep my little thread current.
 

I have a couple more questions as I go.

My tank never had any sort of pad or any material under it before now in investigating some of the fuel line connections I'm seeing diagrams showing a pad under it. Curious about how thick it is? I'm hoping to find something local to put under it. I guess some temp resistance will be needed, nothing that would melt? HD belting or matting seems like it might be the ticket?

My other question is if there is a fuel olive used at the fuel tank shutoff to fuel line connection?

Thanks for any and all help.
 

I did pick up fuel and oil filters today and ordered both the air filters. My 'ebay' rad hoses don't fit so now I'm trying to hunt down something local. I've got to get two more hydro hoses made up to finish up the aux hydraulics. For now I'm eliminating the three spool valve under the footbed. It was leaking and will be simple enough to add in the future again if I have a need for it. I have a modern loader tractor so I don't foresee putting a loader on this one in the near future.

I am struggling with the routing of the hydro hoses still. Hoping to pick up a filter for the return line tomorrow and that I can get it to mount kind of in front of the fuel filter and a bit lower. And then I can use that to help route/cleanup the hoses. Can't decide whether to run them between the brake pedals or tuck them on the inside. I'll have a poke around with my industrial supplier tomorrow and hopefully turn up something decent for holding/routing the hoses.

Slowly but surely. A couple days behind but with any luck it'll drive out of the shop tomorrow.


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Thanks. I drove it today, seems to be working. Put it in my other bay and tomorrow The plan is to paint all the red tomorrow.

I didn't use any fuel olive at the fuel tank shutoff to first fuel line connection. I didn't see how one could/would fit anyways. Doesn't appear to be leaking.

I also didn't put anything under the tank. There was nothing there before and there didn't appear to be any wear? Also it seems very secure. So for now I'm just going to monitor it.
 
Hi Squisher, your tractor looks good! One thing I'd do is remove the front weights and paint under them....in case you ever remove em? Not taking away from what you've done, it really does look great.

I'm looking forward to seeing finished pics, good thread!
 

Thanks. I'd considered removing the front weights but in the end for me it fell into the 'I've got to stop somewhere and actually get this done' category. If I had more time I'd probably have ended up tearing it down a bit further. As it is I'm going to have to live with it. I'm one to two weeks out at the most I think to cut hay with this tractor. It's grown from a quick splash to a little more in depth.

I've been hard at it today and am just taking a break to let the red setup some before I clearcoat it. I upped my ventilation to three box fans for exhaust and one for a intake. It creates a negative pressure environment and has pretty much eliminated overspray and having to wait for overspray to clear. I'm really happy with how the red went on. Now if I can just get a couple coats of clear on with no runs. Lol.


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Well that's that for now. I laid three coats of clear on the main outside of all the parts. Only could find one saggy little almost a run so far, so I think it went well. I'm going to leave them set up now for a number of days, then I'll flip em and try to hit the backsides with even a light coat of clear just to seal it up. I'll just have the reassembly of the panels as well as the seat and grills to deal with. Almost on schedule still I think.
 

Couldn't help myself I had heated my shop up pretty warm overnight so they seemed cured well enough to handle, so I flipped em around and finished the clear.

Also I had to set the clutch pedal adjustment up. Right before this tractor sold to me it had a new clutch put in it. They said they hired in a mobile mechanic for it but I dunno. I hope the rest of it is set up proper. I could see in the inspection cover that the clutch is indeed new but they had only adjusted the throwout bearing up against the springs that hold its tension. It was nowhere near the clutch fingers. Everything seems to be shifting a little smoother now. The pto is still a little grabby seeming. Gonna hook it up tomorrow to the 9' mower and see how it engages and disengages. I may have to adjust it still. Looking up through the inspection cover it looked like it was disengaging fully now when the pedal was depressed.

If I get a chance and the panels seem cured enough I may get to start on the final assembly tomorrow.
 

Well now it gets interesting lol.

I finished er up mostly today and got hooked up to the haybine to cut some hay. Well 15min in the front hydraulic pump went. I had modified the system and removes that extra three way valve under the footbed. When I filled up and ran it I made sure there was lots of oil and there seemed to be lots of flow back to the tank. No strange noises, no struggling and it functioned fine when I tested it the other day. Checked the level multiple times, but today was the first time it ran for very long. I must've had to much of a restriction. It stopped suddenly and there's no flow now.

So can anyone give me some advice as to where to plumb into my rear hydraulics on this tractor? I need to plumb my single spool valve in so just need a supply and return. Really don't want to screw up anymore hydraulics. But now I'm under the gun to mow hay.

Any help appreciated.
 


. Having not much luck in general it would seem? Teenaged kids must be sucking up my internet or something. Can't load any of the pics I took of the whole tractor?
 


Ok. I've determined that that valve is a diverter valve I'm thinking from the three point to a auxiliary hydraulic. So that's my supply and I'm thinking I can plumb the return into a plug that's up high sort of behind the pto shift lever?
 

So after tossing and turning half the night. I believe that the front pump may have been deadheaded and broke the shaft? Not much visibility of it though and quite a bit of the front has to come apart to get at it.

I'd rather just plumb into the rear hydraulics if possible as I described. Now if my valve setup deadheaded that front pump I'm curious if it can deadhead the rear pump as well or if there's a bypass internally to prevent that. Also curious if I'm on the right path with how I described plumbing into the rear. The 3point on the tractor works so I'm hopeful the rear hydraulics work and I can plumb into them to save the day and repair the front at a later date.

Thanks, Justin
 

It is a cross single spool valve. I am not convinced now that I've looked at it that the shaft broke. I didn't have much time to diagnose it but I now think it's still spinning just had a catastrophic failure. This tractor sat for almost two years and when I drained that oil reservoir it was filthy. The pump had always ran through this single spool or atleast it was plumbed that way when I got my hands on it. It just also ran straight through that three spool as well, the three spool was completely plugged off and it's return ran through the cross single spool as well. I had checked it out probably three four times over the last few days and it was working well, no strain, no heat, lots of fluid in the reservoir and I could see the flow of the return in the reservoir.

I've researched it a bit and I hope to be able to diagnose it when I pull it apart. But that won't be for a bit.

For anyone following along my figuring on where to tie into the rear cover/hydraulics was correct. I plumbed in the supply and return for that cross single spool valve and mowed hay with it today. It's slower than the front pump but lifts the haybine adequately to get it done. My haybine is a NH 469. First outing with it today. Really enjoyed the fruits of my labor.

I've tried to upload a few diffferent pics of the tractor all together and none of them are loading? Same as I've always done it, maybe all the files are too big? Never had a single issue with it before.
 

Now I've got it working!

Thanks everyone for all the advice and comments and having this forum which has been a great resource for me.
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Thanks yah that front pump. I won't know for sure I guess until I get a chance to tear it down. I still have the lights and the front grills to put back on but you know what they say.....make hay while the sun shines.

I've got all my two small fields down, only about 7-8 acres and I'm gonna just get it all done before I do the two other little fields that I've got this year. A neighbour has given them to me for free. Full irrigation too, I just have to do it if I want to water it, pipe move. But the property is kitty corner with my back corner so quite convenient. And they're proper hay fields that have been cut twice a year every year, just that deal fell apart and they just want them looked after is all.

Put 25 new knives on my cutter bar today. Pounded every river by hand because I don't have a spinner. That was a bit of hammer and anvil work. I'd started out trying to sharpen the old ones but quickly gave up on most of them as they were just plum wore out. With the new knives she cut much better. Gotta do a few guards now too I think.

First year doing my have myself with all this old sat equipment has been quite a steep learning curve. I sure hope I get my hay off.
 

Here's a pic of the old 469. The previous owner rammed it with the rear tire in transport position I think. Atleast the dent in the push bar lines up perfectly with the rear tire. I straightened it as much as I dared, but just cold, haven't put heat to it yet. But that tweak in the bar pulled the end of the machine tight against the reel, that's why the reel drive guard is off. Otherwise it rubs. A rough old unit but it's working well.
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If anyone has some info/suggestions and maybe a pic or two of a quarter turn chute setup I'm having a real hard time getting mine consistent.

This has been quite a week here. First hay I've done in over 25 years and back then I was the hired kid. So my specialty was raking and stacking by hand.

Thanks, Justin
 
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