Urgent Clutch Work Question

I have my 202 in the Massey dealer shop for 3 things, clutch disks replacement, transmission/bell housing seals replacement and a brake job.
When I went to pick it up, there was a big puddle of transmission fluid coming out from the bell housing. the two seals most likely were not properly installed, so there we go tractor split again.

The primary and PTO disks were replaced. I noticed the clutch pedal is very hard to push comparing to what it was before, but this could be also because the pedal has about 1-1/2” of free travel instead of the 3/4” outlined by the manual. Also the mechanic said that he normally adjusts the release levers to 060”. I did not question this adjustment at the time but I thought it was supposed to be 090” new disks, and sure thing I checked the manual and 090” is what it supposed to be.

My question is, would the adjustment of the clutch pedal and the release levers make a significant change to how hard the required clutch pedal pressure be? If it is, I am not overly concerned because I can to the adjustments myself. If not, then there must be something wrong with the clutch installation.
By the way the two stage clutch operation works, hard but it works.

My main concern, however, is the seals leak. I am not aware of any possibilities, except improper installation.
Also I think I am being overcharged, $2200 labor for clutch disks replacement (no loader), 2 seals replacement and a brake job. I would appreciate if anybody would give me an opinion on what a dealer set labor price for these three jobs (North Carolina).

there is no trans bell houseing seal
but there is two trans in put seal is that what you mean

Yes the two input seals

was the pressure plate replaced, as for the seals is the oil hyd or engine oil leaking, the .060 will be o.k. if the drive clutch is releasing without releasing the pto clutch

Could be they poured the fluid in to fast, did not properly clean up the rough shaft or installed the seals backwards.

for sure they would not want to take the blame .
if the shafts were bad call the cust .
installed back wards there dime .
if there a good dealer and they messed up they will help .
hard to say being a back yard watcher .
if you wanted it fixed right do it your self so dad said .
how much an hour ?
how many hours ?

Lets see, sales tax on that? Did they surface the flywheel? OEM Massey 2 stage clutch or aftermarket?

Also, have you talked to the dealer about the leak? If it is something they did they will probably make it right.

Ok, here is the latest development. I went to check on the tractor when they split it again. They said the leak was not caused by the seals, but from an O ring (maybe from a reverse shaft, I am not sure, it is the only one I can see from the parts breakdown). Anyway, they obviously neglected or omitted this O ring because the oil was just gushing out. They ordered the part and will make it good.
Regarding the hardness of the clutch pedal, they said that it is the it has to be. The clutch was visible and the mechanic showed that the relief levers were properly adjusted to get the required clearance.

I guess I do not understand all I know about it, but why is the new installed clutch disks cause the clutch pedal to be so hard and have so much free travel (twice as much as I had before).

To answer other questions, the mechanic said the pressure plate was ok and did not need any resurfacing. I believe in doing the work myself and I do all of the exterior work. But when comes to splitting, pushing 80, I have to let somebody else do it. I will call other dealers in the area and see what kind of basic labor fee they would charge for this work.

I do not mind paying the fee as long as the work is done right, but right now, even though they explained it, the question lingers wit me on why this clutch has to be so hard to push with so much free travel. If this is the way it has to be, I wish there was a way to make it a little softer and make it easier on my foot.

I split my TO35 with dual stage clutch a few years ago to do the seals. The clutch had been soaked in oil so I opted to send it out for rebuild. Our local shop sent it out to be done and what was supposed to be a $200-$300 job ended up being just shy of $800...and that was just the clutch, I did all the "hard stuff" myself.
It works well, the two stages work as intended but it is VERY hard to push. Not impossible and once you're working with it you kind of forget, until the knee pain starts!
I can't say they charged you too much, I did mine over the course of one winter in my own shop and between the clutch being rebuilt, the seals and of course my time to clean it all out and re-assemble, I might just have paid someone $2000 to do it if I could find anyone I trusted.......I have trust issues for the same reason you seem to be right now. Sounds like they're making it right so hopefully all goes well from here in.
With the 35 I leave the fluid a little low and have yet to see a drop from the weep hole!

(quoted from post at 21:20:12 04/25/18) I split my TO35 with dual stage clutch a few years ago to do the seals. The clutch had been soaked in oil so I opted to send it out for rebuild. Our local shop sent it out to be done and what was supposed to be a $200-$300 job ended up being just shy of $800...and that was just the clutch, I did all the "hard stuff" myself.
It works well, the two stages work as intended but it is VERY hard to push. Not impossible and once you're working with it you kind of forget, until the knee pain starts!
I can't say they charged you too much, I did mine over the course of one winter in my own shop and between the clutch being rebuilt, the seals and of course my time to clean it all out and re-assemble, I might just have paid someone $2000 to do it if I could find anyone I trusted.......I have trust issues for the same reason you seem to be right now. Sounds like they're making it right so hopefully all goes well from here in.
With the 35 I leave the fluid a little low and have yet to see a drop from the weep hole!

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Thanks for your input, Inno. Now i feel somewhat relieved that I am not alone in this tractor world. Providing everything will work at the end, I am at peace with the labor charge. I still would like to understand why the clutch is so hard to push considering that it is the same clutch assembly. The only two things changed were the two disks and the bearings.

Maybe the stiffness is new springs compared to 50+ year old springs. I'll get back to you in 40 years on my 35 and see if it's any better by then. :lol:

They probably replaced the pressure plate also, and they do have other springs that can be put into the pressure plate that are stronger than what yours had originally. If they replaced the pressure plate they probably just got the first one off the shelf they could grab without checking to see what springs are in it.

(quoted from post at 14:09:08 04/26/18) Maybe the stiffness is new springs compared to 50+ year old springs. I'll get back to you in 40 years on my 35 and see if it's any better by then. :lol:

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Yep!... in 40 years I'll be almost 120...I'll be here!

(quoted from post at 17:54:53 04/26/18) They probably replaced the pressure plate also, and they do have other springs that can be put into the pressure plate that are stronger than what yours had originally. If they replaced the pressure plate they probably just got the first one off the shelf they could grab without checking to see what springs are in it.

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No. I am very sure they did not replace the pressure plate or springs.

Just changing out the clutch disks won't make the clutch pedal any harder to push, but different springs in the pressure plate will.

(quoted from post at 01:19:24 04/27/18) Just changing out the clutch disks won't make the clutch pedal any harder to push, but different springs in the pressure plate will.

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That makes sense to me. I think they are lying and I will investigate further.