Ok Long story short. Perkins diesel in a 135. Something went Kaploey on startup last week. I pulled the head today and no dropped valve. Pistons appear ok from the top. I can only hand crank maybe 1/2 a revolution then it binds up. Outside 2 pistons are moving the middle one just laughs at me. I'm assuming I have a broken rod. I'm mechanically inclined and have rebuilt small motors but never anything like this. Can I just change a rod? I see i can't just drop the oil pan like in a small block chev. Is this a motor out kinda thing? Is it like a car just unhook / unbolt and lift it out? I have no garage and no lift.
- Thread starter rkelman
- Start date
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
The pan can be removed, but get a service book first as there are some hidden bolts on some Perkins before the pan will drop down..
John Deere D
Well-known Member
I have only ever worked on the Perkins A3.152 in the MF FE 35 X.
At the very least:
Purchase the MF / Perkins SERVICE Manual for your Engine:
If it were my $$$$$$$'s, Use an OUTSIDE MICROMETER and check the Diameters of all connecting rod Journals:
Install all new Conn. Rod bearing shells and check clearances with Plastiqaue:
It's you $$$$$$$$$$$'S
What is the known TTSN running hrs. on this engine?
What is the known running hrs. on this engine since a Major overhaul?
All the best:
Bob. Owner Operator MF FE 35 X...A3.152 Perkins Diesel:
At the very least:
Purchase the MF / Perkins SERVICE Manual for your Engine:
If it were my $$$$$$$'s, Use an OUTSIDE MICROMETER and check the Diameters of all connecting rod Journals:
Install all new Conn. Rod bearing shells and check clearances with Plastiqaue:
It's you $$$$$$$$$$$'S
What is the known TTSN running hrs. on this engine?
What is the known running hrs. on this engine since a Major overhaul?
All the best:
Bob. Owner Operator MF FE 35 X...A3.152 Perkins Diesel:
Ok Sump is off and its not a Rod. The piston is moving i just couldnt tell from where it was at in the stroke and not being able to watch/turn the motor over at the same time. I think its more like 1/8 a revolution i can get out of it. Where do I go from here? Yes i did check the alternator / water pump are free. Timing gears? Oil pump? Clutch?
Brendon Warren
Well-known Member
Kaplooey on start up? Did you pull your starter off? Maybe the nose
cone broke and is binding you up.
cone broke and is binding you up.
John Deere D
Well-known Member
In case the Timing Cover has to be removed?????????
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
Did you try and see if the engine turns over with the clutch pedal blocked COMPLETELY DOWN? Might not be an engine issue, but a transmission problem. I had a 165 diesel with a thumping noise in the transmission, the PTO driven gear had two teeth off. Any piece of gear teeth in the wrong spot WILL stop the gears from turning, no matter if engine or transmission..
DavidP, South Wales
Well-known Member
Hello, no-one has yet suggested that it
might be the common problem with 35/135
transmissions....that of the loose gear
lever. Being able to turn the engine freely
with the clutch pedal down would certainly
tie in with this. It is possible that the
problem namely the gear lever ball coming
out of the selector slot happened when you
shifted to neutral on its last use. If the
brakes are applied this would give the
symptoms of a drive-line lock-up. When you
move the main gear lever in neutral and
engage gear is there a lot of slop in the
lever? If you remove the oil filler cap
next to the main gear lever and using a
flashlight look inside you should be able
to see if the two selectors are in line
when the tractor is in neutral. If not then
it is a simple job using a large
screwdriver to realign them.
Just a thought.
DavidP, South Wales
might be the common problem with 35/135
transmissions....that of the loose gear
lever. Being able to turn the engine freely
with the clutch pedal down would certainly
tie in with this. It is possible that the
problem namely the gear lever ball coming
out of the selector slot happened when you
shifted to neutral on its last use. If the
brakes are applied this would give the
symptoms of a drive-line lock-up. When you
move the main gear lever in neutral and
engage gear is there a lot of slop in the
lever? If you remove the oil filler cap
next to the main gear lever and using a
flashlight look inside you should be able
to see if the two selectors are in line
when the tractor is in neutral. If not then
it is a simple job using a large
screwdriver to realign them.
Just a thought.
DavidP, South Wales
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
I'm guessing tractor has the two stage clutch. If the transmission has damage on the PTO input side, engine will turn over with clutch pedal fully down, but stop again with the first stage, 1/2 way down which releases the main disc only. Tractor will start and run fine IF the hi-lo lever is in the center/start position, even if the R123 shift lever is stuck in reverse. IF there's a shift for broken, allowing two gears to mesh at once that can be verified by engine turning fine with the clutch pedal down 1/2 way also, and stop again with the pedal up. Have seen shift forks broken before, but not common. If you like call me some evening, 574 835 3292, old, semi-retired MF mechanic..
It seems to be working ok. I cant see over far enough to see the high / low although it feels fine. I did notice however it goes into every gear BUT second. That doesnt really surprise me on a 50 year old gearbox though. A friend at work has a borescope. I'll bring that home tomorrow night and see what i can see from there I guess. [/img]
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
That's the Multi-Power high range clutch drum assembly. Tractor needs two splits to get the assembly out, an engine/transmission split, and a trans/diff case joint split. Reason is the main clutch input shaft must go out the rear before the drum assembly can be lifted out..
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
That's a cotter pin, it's supposed to be there..
ptfarmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- San Antonio, Tx
The idea behind the cotter pin in the hole is to keep the weep hole from getting clogged up. Vibration, driving over tall grass, weeds, etc makes the cotter pin rotate/move to help keep the weep hole open.
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