35 Aux hydraulics help

gumbellion

New User
From my other message i bought a 1963 Massey FE35X that has aux hydraulics

Can you look at these photos and tell me what is going on?
Are there parts missing to activate the lines that go to the rear
The plate is on top of the top plate for the seat

How do i make it so i can operate these even though i dont own any implements that have hydraulics, i would like to get everything working right
Thanks








 

It wont let me edit my original post

I am guessing i am missing some sort of isolating valve though? The small black plastic capped thing that is sticking out of the top plate seems to be of some sort of importance, but i dont want to start messing with it not knowing what it is
 
Hi, the small black cap that you are
referring to is the transmission case
breather and of no relevance whatsoever to
the hydraulic operation. At the moment the
two rear hydraulic hoses appear to be
tapped into the tractor's lift circuit. In
theory you will have pressure in both
whilst operating the linkage with the
position control lever. BUT as soon as the
3-point is fully raised the pump will be
placed in neutral and no pressurised oil
will flow. To achieve pressurised oil flow
to the outlets it will be necessary to
rigidly hold the linkage below its max
point 'up' position or raise the Draft
lever. There is no logic in having two
pressured hoses. One should be a return to
return oil to the tractor's transmission
cas. If you wish to have one or two
pressured outlets at the rear the easiest
way is to fit an isolating valve in place
of the cap on the hydraulic cover. Many
valve designs are available but one with
the ability to change from internal to
external supply and having one or two
levers and ports would be most suitable. If
you fit a plain isolating valve you to
operate an implement with its own valve
control block you will need to fit a return
line to the tractor. This is ideally
connected at the oil filler plug next to
the main gear lever. The return line should
have a larger bore than the supply. The
tapped hole in the lhs of the hyd cover can
be used but any restrictions should be kept
to an absolute minimum.
DavidP, South Wales
 
would the 2 pressurized lines not be if i needed a dual acting cylinder.
For instance would one line not supply pressure to extend the cylinder and the other line supply pressure to collapse the cylinder

What i am thinking is if i had a back blade and wanted to be able to angle it both ways with one cylinder

Post Script: I probably have no idea what i am talking about

Also if you notice i am missing parts, like some sort of valve to change so that i can use the hydraulics instead of the 3 point i could use some advice

I dont need them right now, but it would be super handy if when plowing snow in the drive way i could fit a cylinder to angle my back blade. Lift blade a foot or 2, angle blade, drop and contine to plow snow
 
As David said, that's not plumbed right with TWO pressure supply hoses and NO return hose. There's a 3/8 inch pipe plug on the lift cover left side for where the return should be. For good results hook the supply and return lines to a separate spool valve, then the quick coupler lines to the valve spool control ports. Three point will need to be completely up and Draft control fully up to place the pump in "constant pumping" position. For the VERY BEST results a two spool valve can be installed in place of the lift cover transfer cap. Left spool is then used to switch between three point and cylinder use.
 
I own a MF FE 35 X 1963 that had a Loader mounted since new:

It had a very very POOR way to obtain HYD.PSI for the Single acting Cylinders / Rams:

The LIFT ARMS of the THREE POINT LIFT had to be CHAINED DOWN when LOADER being used:


Bob...
a264009.jpg

a264010.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 13:34:17 04/04/18) I own a MF FE 35 X 1963 that had a Loader mounted since new:]

I need lots of help here folks


So if i understand correctly i need to totally remove the hose that comes out of the left side of the cover if sitting on the tractor, and run it into the pipe lug opening on the top of the cover


What is a spool valve? and is the 2 spool valve what i would need if i want to use remote hydraulics without having the 3 point and draft contol in the fully up positions?
Do you guys have a part number or link to the spool valve i would need/
Are the valve spool control ports where the pressure goes out and return back in?
i just bought this and the previous owner never used the hydraulics, and i have only ever owned a 8n
 
This is the setup I use to operate my top link cylinder. Move isolater valve to port oil pressure to 4-way valve, move 3-point lever slightly toward raise position which will apply pressure to 4-way valve. You will NOT be able to use the 3-point and 4-way valve at the same time.
a264224.jpg
 
Hi Tom,
Thank you your photo makes a lot of sense to me now

So as i understand it i dont have much going on there right now other than a few hoses hanging from the tractor

any chance you have part numbers for the stuff you have on there such as the 4 way valve and isolating valve?

I really dont need to use the extra hydraulics any time soon but figure i should at the very least get the isolating valve set up, and run the second line back into the top pipe lug area that Dave indicated and plug the hole of the left side of the top plate where the line comes from now
 
The 4-way directional valve is Prince MB11B5C1, several on Ebay now. You must set it up as a closed center valve (plug included with valve).

The Diverter valve is A-VFD 1104, again, several on Ebay now. You can also search "Massey Isolator/Isolater" couple different spellings.

Funny thing I found, The Diverter A-VFW 1104 shown by one vendor is showing my tractor with valve installed. The 4-way valve shown is an old one that didn't work well for me. I must have posted it here a few years ago, so someone here gobbled it up. :)
 
Follow up:

When you remove the OEM cap to install the divertor valve, the stand pipe will likely come out with the cap. Not a bad thing, might as well install new o-rings anyway.

You'll have to remove the inspection cover near your right heel to reinstall the stand pipe. Place a drain pan under the cover, remove bottom bolts and let the oil drain to bottom of cover, then remove cover.

Now you will see where the bottom of the stand pipe goes into pump. Easy job.
 

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