Mf3165 3pt hitch issues

Hi Mike,
Your top picture is incorrect. The spring goes between where the lower end of the spring is attached in the top photo and the extension part of the linkage frame below. It is a tricky job to fit but can be achieved with a long-nose pliers or piece of wire bent to be able to push the spring hook downwards.
DavidP, South Wales
 
thanks David for posting I was worried I was gonna have to trial and error it and I don't like taking things back apart to fix haha......but your saying the spring hooks to hole on control finger as top spring hook and lower hook on spring hooks to ???? Are the bottom pic locations right? I have cam hook circled in red that my parts book makes it look like spring hooks to and red arrow to hole in control finger in that bottom pic but I'll post pics I'm referring to in my part book for better referance..
 
does the spring hook to what the book makes me assume in this pic and to the control finger I put arrow to and highlighted?? Thanks mike
 
kinda hard to get top part of spring and bottom hook so just know the too hook on spring is hooked to control finger hole like other pic.... and is this correct?
 
sorry if I'm overwhelming you with my problems haha I have just been trying to fix this tractor over winter so I can get back at it this summer we got lots of plans for the old tractor and time is getting slim main reason it took so long with everything was waiting on parts to come and they took so long I almost forgot how everything goes back together and I'm also not a tractor expert like your self haha I just like to do stuff myself and figure it out but this is taking far more figuring then I expected but about putting lift cover back on I know I have to do a few adjustments but do I need the special tools my book refers to or are their other ways to adjust everything correctly? (I'll post pics of what I'm talking about) thanks mike
 
Hello,
Yes you are correct with the drawing. There are two levers in the
linkage, the 'dog' and the 'giraffe'. No, I haven't got a bolt loose!!!!
If you look at the profile of them you will see that they resemble the
dog and giraffe. The spring fits into the hole in the 'dog' lever.
DavidP, South Wales
 

Is there a way to complete these adjustments without all the special gizmos I guess a tractor repair shop would have or do I need to rent/buy some of the tools needed? Thanks
 
The I&T shop manual has more detailed instructions on setting the linkage, and how to do it without all the special tools (its a good supplement to the original MF shop manual). I need to get a new I&T manual because the paper mine is printed on it turning yellow (its that old).
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/MF27_12132.htm
It covers the 135, 150, and 165, the 3165 is pretty much a 165.
 
well I hope that i&t manual does have more info cuz I ordered one only problem I have is im waiting another week to work on tractor.... this thing has been apart so long the inside that's open is starting to develop surface rust on the internal parts hopefully no problems arise with that but what can I do
 
so I got other manual and wasn't hugely impressed but it was only 20 bucks so didn't hurt to bad but I got adjustments kinda figured out but my small allen bolt adjustment screw didn't really make sense to me because it wasn't touching anything so kinda confused on that but I put it back together because it's go time for summer here so bushhogging needs done so can't spend anymore time on it til something breaks or next fall..... But, my draft control lever moves 3pt now in transport position so that's good no more loading the pump with constant pump to raise stuff. But I still cannot hold 3pt at a constant position. It's either up or down but we have a pull behind bushhog so don't have to worry to much about 3pt holding steady height as if you were using a 3pt bushhog but would be nice to hold steady height for using box blade as a bulldozer to push trees and bush into piles without digging in ground because that is one thing we do use 3pt for now haha but very soon were gonna be needing it for hold plow at right height to start cutting terraces/swales into our hillside for berry/produce farming so if anyone has helpful tips on the 3pt not holding steady position hit me with them and fyi I did put new piston rings in ram and replaces all o ring seals for pretty much everything on top cover and have a new hydraulic filter pretty much overhauled top cover.
Thanks mike
 
So I got into cutting some swales into our hillside for a garden this past week and had some issues with 3pt lift, for the most part everything went ok but had to do some fine tuning with hand shovels and that wasn't fun when we got a tractor to do labor for us haha but 2 of the 10 swales cut went perfect others had issues with the lift not staying at 3inches above all the way down cuz the 3in lift of single bottom plow cut swales perfect for our hillside.... I talked to an old guy that runs a tractor parts supply in middle of nowhere lol and I told him I basically overhauled top lift cover and hydraulics and still having issues he told me that the massey hydraulic cylinder was notorious for leaking down as mine does. He told me that ford made a lift cylinder that you put rubber o-rings in piston instead of metal piston rings like mine cuz the orings seal much better is this an option for the massey ferguson? If not what options do I have in making this operate as it did back in the day? Thanks mike
 
Is there anyone out there..... (pink Floyd verse) lol. Anyone have any input on my issues with the 3pt leaking down with fresh overhaul it's been an issue long enough I'm coming up with riggery fix ideas and wanted to run it thru some tractor mechanics minds.... so what I was thinking since this old guy told me about the ford lift cylinder having rubber o rings on piston for better seal I was wondering since mine isn't made for rubber o rings, but I'm desperate enough to try this, I was thinking about pulling piston out and trying to find an o ring that would fit in place of the middle o ring on my piston. My thoughts on this is that the two outter metal piston rings will seal enough for the heavy pressure and the middle rubber o ring will be in between the heavier pressures and seal each side of piston to eliminate the leak down. Does anyone think this might be able to work and if not any ideas on how to fix the leak down issue????
Thanks mike
 
You should be able to find a new piston that has the oring. and seal already installed, but you have to know the diameter of the lift cylinder.
 
So I found a replacement piston and cylinder and it's actually a larger bore then mine. My original piston and cylinder I'm assuming by the scratches on walls, book says it's 3 1/8" bore and the replacement cylinder and piston is 3 3/8" bore but the cylinder housing looks just like mine. It claims to fit the models mine crosses with since the 3165 is a rare model by the parts books anyway lol but how will the bore size change effect things I'm assuming it will be sealed and not leak down like mine is now but will it effect lift power in any way? Thanks mike
 
Also the replacement I found has one seal on piston and it seems to be different then the 3metal piston ring style like mine is but not sure if that's an improvement or not? Any input on the different types?
 
So havnt really been using 3pt to much this summer as I have a pull behind bushhog but this winter were wanting to do some minor dirt work with plow and 6way blade and gonna need 3pt operating properly.... so since I replaced the rings on lift piston and it still leaks down slowly when engine is off, and I cant get it to hold a steady height from ground what could be my fix/issues to fix for a like new operating 3pt lift system? I really would like to try the (middle rubber oring on piston) idea I thought of instead of paying almost $200 for a new piston and lift cylinder... but if that isnt a option for the fix I guess im gonna have to fork out the dough
 

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