MF35 hydraulic lift full up

Tom McFalls

New User
Started my old 35 after several months and the lift went full up (with a mower attached). Before I could catch it, there was a loud crack and the mower dropped to the ground. I assumed the lift lever was left or placed inadvertently full up. Now I am not at all sure.
Removed the lift cover and found the lift cylinder cracked.
Replaced the lift cylinder, pressure relief valve, piston, and rings. Replaced the filter, changed the fluid.
Started the tractor and immediately shut it down after noticing the lift headed up (with the loft lever full down).
The lift will start up by just turning the engine over with the starter. Removed the cover again but can find no issues.
There is a pin attached to the draft control that was apparently frozen into the cover. Not sure what it's function might be but a tap with a hammer freeed it up but left a part of the pin I'm the cover. I have never used the draft control since acquiring the tractor over 30 years ago.
Ideas or himts?
 
(quoted from post at 11:28:29 03/14/18) Started my old 35 after several months and the lift went full up (with a mower attached). Before I could catch it, there was a loud crack and the mower dropped to the ground. I assumed the lift lever was left or placed inadvertently full up. Now I am not at all sure.
Removed the lift cover and found the lift cylinder cracked.
Replaced the lift cylinder, pressure relief valve, piston, and rings. Replaced the filter, changed the fluid.
Started the tractor and immediately shut it down after noticing the lift headed up (with the loft lever full down).
The lift will start up by just turning the engine over with the starter. Removed the cover again but can find no issues.
There is a pin attached to the draft control that was apparently frozen into the cover. Not sure what it's function might be but a tap with a hammer freeed it up but left a part of the pin I'm the cover. I have never used the draft control since acquiring the tractor over 30 years ago.
Ideas or himts?

Sounds to me like the control valve is seized/sticking. Look on the right side of the machine, there's the pivot with rollers on it. On the lower part of that pivot arm is a small rod that comes out of the pump. Make sure that moves freely. It should have a fair amount of spring pressure on it, but you should be able to move it by hand with the pivot/roller lever.

If that's stuck, it'll cause your issue. You're lucky all that broke was the lift cylinder. Sometimes it'll snap the studs that hold the cover plate (big heavy one under the seat), sometimes it'll crack the actual cover plate, and I've read online where a stuck control valve has broken the tractor in half! I don't know how true it is, but I wouldn't want to find out!
 
(quoted from post at 08:28:29 03/14/18) Started my old 35 after several months and the lift went full up (with a mower attached). Before I could catch it, there was a loud crack and the mower dropped to the ground. I assumed the lift lever was left or placed inadvertently full up. Now I am not at all sure.
Removed the lift cover and found the lift cylinder cracked.
Replaced the lift cylinder, pressure relief valve, piston, and rings. Replaced the filter, changed the fluid.
Started the tractor and immediately shut it down after noticing the lift headed up (with the loft lever full down).
The lift will start up by just turning the engine over with the starter. Removed the cover again but can find no issues.
There is a pin attached to the draft control that was apparently frozen into the cover. Not sure what it's function might be but a tap with a hammer freeed it up but left a part of the pin I'm the cover. I have never used the draft control since acquiring the tractor over 30 years ago.
Ideas or himts?

When I purchased my MF202 (industrial model of the MF35) when started, the arms would raise up full like that no matter where the quadrant levers were. I pulled that right side inspection cover off and pried gently on the linkage that was probably rusted stuck and it broke loose. The lift works great now. I got lucky that nothing actually broke.
 
Remove Inspection cover with oil Measuring dip stick,verify that Control levers are on proper side of control valve "FORWARD" also that levers are free to move and control linkage from pump is not under tension.

Bob.....MF FE 35 X
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Another possibility, I have come across two cases where the circlip that holds the control valve spring in place in the pump has come out. This leaves the control valve in the full up position with no spring pressure to push it back out. After taking off the access cover on the right side if you push back on the control valve lever you should feel the spring pushing it back towards the front. In both cases, I found the spring and clip in the bottom of the housing once I pulled the pump out.
Dan
 

Ok. All back together and in operation. I believe the original problem was a stuck control valve.
Lesson learned, always watch the lift on initial tractor start up with your hand on the engine shutoff control. That appears to be the fastest and maybe only way to quickly kill hydraulic pressure.
Now time for true confessions. It appears that the lower position of the lift lever will also raise the lift arms. Not really sure why .
Anyway I was so intent on not repeating the first event that I only used the lower area of the quadrant for system check after reassembly. With the lift lever all the way down. The lift arms would come up.
The upper half of the quadrant controls normal "amateur " operation of the three point system.
Guess I need to find and actually read an operator's manual for this tractor.
 
The Position lever completely down will raise the arms again, because that's how the early tractors controlled the response fast-slow speed. The 100 series had the fast-slow response adjustment on the trans dipstick side cover. That's why there's an adjustable stop on the lower quadrant, so you can set the lowering speed of the position lever. You should see fast-slow letters stamped in the lower quadrant area..
 

It is labeled exactly that way. Guess because I have only used this tractor for mowing and other light work, I have paid no attention to the markings or even wondered about them.
I will look for an owner manual asap.
Thank you for the help.
 
(quoted from post at 18:09:00 03/15/18)
Ok. All back together and in operation. I believe the original problem was a stuck control valve.
Lesson learned, always watch the lift on initial tractor start up with your hand on the engine shutoff control. That appears to be the fastest and maybe only way to quickly kill hydraulic pressure.
Now time for true confessions. It appears that the lower position of the lift lever will also raise the lift arms. Not really sure why .
Anyway I was so intent on not repeating the first event that I only used the lower area of the quadrant for system check after reassembly. With the lift lever all the way down. The lift arms would come up.
The upper half of the quadrant controls normal "amateur " operation of the three point system.
Guess I need to find and actually read an operator's manual for this tractor.

As Dieseltech said, all the way down will raise the 3pt hitch as well. It does on my '64. I put a nut/bolt in the range to stop me from going all the way down that far. Works well and is free if you have a nut/bolt laying around.

Glad you got it fixed Might be a good idea to check the hydraulic fluid to see if you've got any water (or had any water) in the trans case.
 
(quoted from post at 05:20:51 03/16/18)
(quoted from post at 18:09:00 03/15/18)
Ok. All back together and in operation. I believe the original problem was a stuck control valve.
Lesson learned, always watch the lift on initial tractor start up with your hand on the engine shutoff control. That appears to be the fastest and maybe only way to quickly kill hydraulic pressure.
Now time for true confessions. It appears that the lower position of the lift lever will also raise the lift arms. Not really sure why .
Anyway I was so intent on not repeating the first event that I only used the lower area of the quadrant for system check after reassembly. With the lift lever all the way down. The lift arms would come up.
The upper half of the quadrant controls normal "amateur " operation of the three point system.
Guess I need to find and actually read an operator's manual for this tractor.

As Dieseltech said, all the way down will raise the 3pt hitch as well. It does on my '64. I put a nut/bolt in the range to stop me from going all the way down that far. Works well and is free if you have a nut/bolt laying around.

Glad you got it fixed Might be a good idea to check the hydraulic fluid to see if you've got any water (or had any water) in the trans case.

I assume that you're talking about the position control lever when you say "all the way down" will raise the lift also.

I have a MF202 workbull that is the industrial version of the MF35 and all the way down on the position control does not raise the lift any.
 
I assume that you're talking about the position control lever when you say "all the way down" will raise the lift also.

I have a MF202 workbull that is the industrial version of the MF35 and all the way down on the position control does not raise the lift any.

Yep. Perhaps yours is a bit out of adjustment. As long as the hitch works, I wouldn't worry about it. My cousin's 202 does the same as mine. His is a 1958 model.
 
(quoted from post at 10:54:41 03/16/18)
I assume that you're talking about the position control lever when you say "all the way down" will raise the lift also.

I have a MF202 workbull that is the industrial version of the MF35 and all the way down on the position control does not raise the lift any.

Yep. Perhaps yours is a bit out of adjustment. As long as the hitch works, I wouldn't worry about it. My cousin's 202 does the same as mine. His is a 1958 model.

My 202 is also a 58. Let me get this straight. if both draft control levers and the position control lever are all the way at the bottom, then the lift arms will still raise? I have all the manuals for my 202, so why don't I see anything in the manuals about that?
 

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