New to me Massey Fuerguson 35 deluxe

gumbellion

New User
AT least i think its a Deluxe!

I bought a massey 35 deluxe diesel as an upgrade from my old trusty ford 8n.
I dont know really anything about these tractors other than it had 2 things i really wanted over the ford. Dual stage clutch and a diff lock
What are things that i should check over or common problems i should be aware of?
I have searched most threads and am trying to source some manuals for operation and service
I plan to change the fluids and filters so i have a starting point for maintaining the tractor
The tach/hour meter has been replaced with a new unit and new cable but does not work. Apparently there is something where it attaches to the top of the motor that is broken, can anyone help me with that?




 

As it is new to you , adjusting the dual clutch is probably a good idea , It might make it a lot easier to drive as well .
 

Thank you for the suggestion, do you have any tips on how to adjust it properly?

Also i forgot to mention this is the first diesel thing i have ever owned
The tractor will mostly be used for snow removal with some light brush hogging, and yard maintenance

I would love to find a loader for it, but i have no idea where even to begin to find one that will work for the tractor
 
What are things that i should check over or common problems i should be aware of?
I'd get rid of that extra "S" in "Fergusson" on the hood! :wink:
Just kidding - looks like a nice tractor, and should be a significant upgrade to the 8N.
 
I own a MF FE 35 X 3 cylinder Perkins diesel, with diff. lock:

What RPM is the Engine Tachometer registering to have the PTO at 520 RPM ..EG..Engine Greater than 1700 RPM or less than 1700 RPM.

What is your Tractor Serial # as per picture location?

What is your Location?

Clean HYD PUMP screen as per pictures.
a261280.jpg

a261281.jpg

a261282.jpg

a261283.jpg

a261284.jpg
 
MF FE 35 X Tachometer: ....3 cylinder Perkins diesel

MF FE Tachometer:......... 3 cylinder Perkins diesel


Bob..
a261290.jpg

a261291.jpg

a261292.jpg
 
did this model come from factory with an alternator ? if not would it not be a bit unusual to have a working tach ?
 
i paid for it on the weekend and it is getting dropped off at my neighbours place this weekend, so its actually not in my posession
I am in northwestern ontario, canada

I also thought the spelling error in "ferguSSon" was a bit entertaining
As i understand the alternator was a replacement for the stock generator, new starter, new exhaust, new block heater
It does have dual clutch and diff lock and multi power along with temp, tach, and ammeter from the top of my head
seems to run like new and the seller owns and operates forestry equipment and had planned on restoring the tractor in retirement

3 cylinder diesel
does not smoke
Slight oil leak from engine

On the filter screen for the hydraulics, is it just a mesh screen?
From my old 8N i replaced the rear lift piston and cylinder, new 12 volt set up, and some other stuff so have a rough idea how it all works, but this tractor is all new
 
Good little tractor, lots of parts available. Try Fawcetts in St. Mary's Ontario, for used parts, lots of loaders available in Southern Ontario as well. That one will use less fuel per hour than your Ford while delivering 50 percent more power.Ben
 
Quote:
On the filter screen for the hydraulics, is it just a mesh screen?

Yes....you can remove and clean . Pump does not have to e removed:

Check clearance between Alternator bracket and axel:

Bob...Owner MF FE 35 X North Western Alberta ....
a261328.jpg
 

Adjustment is made via the ' belly plate ' under the bell housing . Remove this and adjust clearance by turning the jack bolts using two thicknesses of hacksaw blades as a feeler gauge . Once this is done adjust the free play of the foot pedal .

12909.jpg

Be cautious with these bolt heads as they are quite soft and easily rounded . Mark with chalk as you go , it is easy to become cofused and miss one .

12911.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 15:04:41 03/14/18) I own a MF FE 35 X 3 cylinder Perkins diesel, with diff. lock:

What RPM is the Engine Tachometer registering to have the PTO at 520 RPM ..EG..Engine Greater than 1700 RPM or less than 1700 RPM.

What is your Tractor Serial # as per picture location?

What is your Location?

Clean HYD PUMP screen as per pictures.

So if i read correctly and i have a MF FE 35, with a 3 cylinder perkins then i guess i didnt buy what i thought i did. I will get the serial number this weekend and figure it out, but i was thinking it was made in the early 60s. But was it actually from late 50s?

The tach is brand new with 0000 hours on it, so i dont think i will be able to tell what it is based on the tach
it does have a temp gauge, and i think a ammeter. No fuel gauge as i remember though

MANUAL-Ya I need one but i need to be sure i get the right one. So what manual would i get? one for a FE 35, a 35 deluxe, or a....?
Im almost feeling bummed out that i didnt buy what i thought i did
 
If in deed you have purchased a MF FE 35 X you are one LUCKY GUY......MF FE 35 X is the last of the GREAT MF 35's made in Coventry England....you may have purchased a diamond.

My MF FE 35 X was sold with a different FUEL PUMP, Fuel Injectors, Engine Tachometer, Diff. Lock, greaseable front wheel spindles, and horse power was advertised at 44 HP not the 38 HP like the first MF 35's. HP was gained through different Fuel Pump, Injectors, and RPM of the Engine etc..

I own a MF FE 35 X and my Neighbour owns a FE 35 Deluxe......they are NOT the same Tractor.

Check out ...Massey Ferguson 35 X tractor data

Your MF FE 35 (X)is many steeps up from a lonely "N" Tractor or a TO-20, TO-30 or TEA-20

Bob.. Owner operator MF FE 35 X & several TEA-20's
 
This message board is awesome!
Thanks guys i used another one for help with my old 8N

So if i understand correctly it should be 1962-1964 since it has diff lock, 3 cylinder, dual stage clutch, multi power, and fancy seat
I will check the serial number once i get it dropped off this weekend to confirm
I will also plan to change the oil this weekend if the weather is warm and will ensure there is not water in hydraulics then clean its screen but not the oil if the oil is good

From all the other searching on this i will run this oil in 80wt90 for the transmission and hydraulics
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/certified-extreme-pressure-gear-oil-20-l-0280252p.html#srp

which is what i used in my 8N
and will use rotella T for the engine.
 
You probably shall receive assistance from other MF FE 35 users that know better than I as to the Oil used in Tractor.

I add 15-30 "Oil recommended for DIESEL ENGINE" oil in both the Engine and Trans / hydraulic / Diff Compartment.

The Trans / hydraulic / Diff Compartment is all common.

After you start to use your MF FE 35 you shall hide the N8 behind a large Tree.......LOL.

Bob....Owner operator MF FE 35 X
 
My MISTAKE............I run 15-40 in my MF FE 35 X as well as Trans/Diff Housing, Hydraulics.

Sorry.........
Bob...
 
Oil / Lube drain Points...

Transmission,Hydraulics,and Differential are all common Sump:

MF FE 35 3 cylinder Perkins Diesel...........

Bob...
a261393.jpg

a261394.jpg

a261395.jpg

a261396.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 13:57:24 03/15/18) My MISTAKE............I run 15-40 in my MF FE 35 X as well as Trans/Diff Housing, Hydraulics.

Sorry.........
Bob...

So can I run Rotella T 15-40 in the engine and in the rear diff/hydraulics/transmission?

I was going to swing by Canadian Tire after work today and grab a pail of the 15-40 because it is on sale, but if i will run it in the engine and the rear of it I will need 2 pails?
22 litres in the rear end
6 litres for the engine

I will probably see if NAPA has a oil filter for it for now, and next oil change will change to the spin on type filter
 
Looks like many of these UK built MF 35 deluxe tractors from 62 to 64 were available in Canada. I have one that my dad and I fixed up. I learned a lot from this site and discovered I have the identical tractor as John Deere D. He's in Alberta. I'm in New Brunswick. Mine is a 1964 perkins diesel. Same fuel pump and injectors as his. I don't have multi power though. I have dual clutch, the more horsepower 3 cylinder. My original starter had the solenoid separate from the starter and bolted in behind the oil bath air cannister. I have the original generator. Mine had 2400 hours on original tachometer. It was bought new by the school district and used for odds and ends around the school yards like dragging ball fields and mowing. I wish they had power steering though especially if you want to use a loader.

One think I can recommend is that whenever you take something apart or replace to use new seals, gaskets or O-rings. Everything is dried out or brittle due to age.
I pretty much worked on all parts of the tractor except for replacing a piston . If you have any questions don't be shy. Email [email protected]
It was a learning curve for me but i was asked plenty of questions before trying something. I still have a few things to do to mine and hopefully this summer I'll be out mowing.

Scott
 
I used the Wal Mart DTH hydraulic oil. $50 a pail and it says on the pail it's compatible for older Massey Ferguson tractors.
Used shell Rotella for the engine oil. I have the spin on engine oil filter conversion. I also put new spin on fuel filter heads. In the process of changing over to horizontal exhaust. Put a modern seat on it with adjustable slide. The glass on the tachometer was smashed and I replaced it with a new one made for the higher PTO rpm rating.

I have all new brake hardware including springs and adjusters and shoes for a good price. We bought all new parts and after pulling the hubs off we noticed everything was like new. So we were left with new unused parts.
 

Got it dropped off today. and it is a FE-35
Serial Number:
SNMY 320099

It has been painted over, but it almost looks like there is a "W" after the Y and before the 3, but it is hard to make out

its got a oil leak which i am guessing is the rear main seal, new oil and filter, new fuel filters

The clutch for sure needs adjusted as it doesnt side into gear perfectly when the clutch is fully depressed and will bump a bit when going in sometimes.

Also the neutral safety start switch must be disabled, so i am going to have to fix that to ensure it wont start in gear
 
Yours is probably a 62 or 63. Mine is a 64 and built at the beginning of 64. Serial number SNMY 353514

I had to replace the neutral safety switch also. There's a weep hole at bottom of the round housing under the tractor. If there is oil leaking out from there slightly than you probably have leaking rear seal. That weep hole should not be plugged. If it does get plugged and you have a leak then there is a chance of ruining your clutch.
 
(quoted from post at 13:10:05 03/17/18) Yours is probably a 62 or 63. Mine is a 64 and built at the beginning of 64. Serial number SNMY 353514

I had to replace the neutral safety switch also. There's a weep hole at bottom of the round housing under the tractor. If there is oil leaking out from there slightly than you probably have leaking rear seal. That weep hole should not be plugged. If it does get plugged and you have a leak then there is a chance of ruining your clutch.

Yes the oil is coming from the weep hole. I will probably wait to see how bad it is before i replace it. It would be a lot of work to split it just to do the seal. If its not much leaking i will wait until it needs a clutch or something most likely
I will just keep a pan under it in the garage to catch the mess
 
MF FE 35 Serial #'s by YEAR Built..Coventry England

267528 ? 307230 1962

307231 ? 352254 1963

352255 ? 388382 1964

SNMY 320099...S= Standard / utility Chassis....N=Perkins Diesel...M=Dual Stage Clutch ...Y= Differential Lock

Bob.. Owner Operator MF FE 35 X... In my family since New...S # SNMY320137
 
Original Tach. on MF FE 35 X with 3 cylinder Perkins Diesel:

This MF FE 35 X has been in our family since new. Ordered from Coventry England in 1963:

Bob....North Western Alberta...
a261722.jpg
 
Do any of you guys have remote hydraulics on your tractor?
This one has 2 lines going to the rear from the top plate for the rear hydraulics.
The one line looks to be be rough shape, but i am hoping to figure out how to operate them. I am assuming that i would somehow have to switch it so it routes the pressure for the lift arms to operate the lines
There does not seem to be a lever or switch that is clearly obvious. There is a little black plastic thing on one of the bolts, but its smaller than a dime and seems pretty flimsy, and spins freely like its a cap on a bolt
I know bad description. I will take some photos of it though
 

now that i know what i have should i post individual questions or keep this thread going to ask them?
The questions i have now are

All the oil in the engine, oil filter, rear hydraulic oil, and fuel filters have 15 hours or less. So i dont want to change things that done need it

Currently it has 0w40 Mobil delvac synthetic diesel motor oil. Would changing to rotella 15w40 help reduce the rear main oil seal leak? I am thinking no since it only leaks when its running

Do i need to drain the rear hydraulic fluid to clean the filter screen? Can i just remove the side access cover/PTO selector to clean the screen, and then replace screen, new gasket, and access cover? This has petro canada duratran in it for fluid right now

The tractor only has a start button, it does not have a key. I am guessing that this is something that was done aftermarket due to a faulty ignition? And with that i am guessing there is no pre-heater/ glow plugs and just the block heater is used for cold weather starting

When i open up the bottom of the bell housing to adjust the clutch are there other things in there i should be checking?

What is the common issue with the tractor-meter /tach/ hour meter drive? IT has a new gauge and new cable but the issue seems to be in the top of the engine where the cable connects- this seems like something i should be checking out

Do dealers sell the spin on filter adapters or should i just go with the ones available from ebay or amazon? I better buy the part and then i can have a couple filters on hand

Hopefully i will make it to winnipeg in a couple weeks to find a dealer and get a manual, and see about a spin on filter covnersion kit
 
I don't think you need the heater start if you have a block heater especially if stored inside a garage.

I don't think a different oil will make much difference for leaking out the weep hole when the oil gets warm. It's all going to leak.

Chances are if the hydraulic oil was changed previously not long ago you would think the filter element on the pump would have been changed. Any way of asking the previous owner? I would drain some hydraulic fluid to clean off the screen. You can remove the PTO side cover and reach in I guess. The screen is the outer part of the filter element and is removable but I would say a lot easier if the lift cover was off. Again though the filter should have been changed before the new fluid was added. The element is held in place by a metal cover that normally has a wire through the top portion and secured to the relief valve on the pump. To me that would be difficult to remove and replace without the hydraulic cover off.

The tach cable may have a broken end that goes into the engine. Or if attached to the block then the cable may be broken at the tach end. These ends have a square profile and lock in place once inserted into the tack and engine. Maybe one end is just not locked in place.

You might be able to buy the spin on engine oil filter adapter at the dealer but I imagine it would be pricy. Sparex or A&I should have them. The dealer should be able to source out an aftermarket one. There is a gasket behind this that you will need also.

I don't have any remote hydraulic lines on mine but often thought about hooking some up. I'm not sure if you need a diverter valve or not.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top